Dan Crandall’s daily journal (September 25 – October 15, 2009)

Day 1 September 25: New London, NH

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 23 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:57
Average Speed: 12.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 1873 ft.

Howdy Y’all,

You are receiving this email because at some time in the past you expressed an interest in hearing about my bicycle adventures. If, for some totally lame reason, you no longer wish to benefit from my extraordinary wit and wisdom, please let me know and I will take you off the email list.
This tour is a self-supported 1-month, approximately 1200-mile ride starting in New London, NH where some of we participants will meet up at Peter’s house and spend a couple of days riding the beautiful New Hampshire countryside. From there we will drive (8-passenger van and trailer) to Bar Harbor, ME where we will spend a day biking in the Acadia National Park before boarding a ferry to Nova Scotia, Canada. We will spend about 3-weeks exploring Nova Scotia and its environs. It should be a lot of fun and I am looking forward to it.
There are 10 participants for this adventure:

• Elizabeth from Sisters, OR: The planner and organizer of this tour. She invited the participants and spent untold hours setting up all the reservations and arranging the logistics that go into a trip such as this. Elizabeth was on the 2005 Mississippi River Ride, the 2007 Eastern Europe and the 2008 Blue Ridge Parkway (which she also organized) trips with me.
• Peter from New London, NH: Peter joined me on the 2008 Southwestern USA tour and the Blue Ridge Parkway Tour.
• Rick from Sarasota, FL. Rick was on the 2004 Cross Country Challenge, 2005 Mississippi River Ride, 2007 Eastern Europe trip, 2008 Southwestern USA and the 2008 Blue Ridge Parkway trip with me.
• Kathie (Rick’s wife): Kathie was on the 2007 Eastern Europe trip and the 2008 Blue Ridge Parkway trip with me
• Carol from Sisters, OR. Carol was on the 2008 Blue Ridge Parkway trip with me.
• Bill from Naples, FL. Bill was on the 2004 Cross Country Challenge, 2005 Mississippi River Ride, 2006 Across America North, 2007 Eastern Europe trip, 2008 Southwestern USA trip, 2008 Blue Ridge Parkway, and the 2009 South America High Andes trips with me.
• Joyce from Naples, FL
• May from Sisters, OR
• Steve from Irvington, VA

As you can tell, I have met a lot of good friends while doing these long distance bicycle rides.
I will attempt to update you on my progress through daily journal email but I’m not sure I’ll have internet access through much of the trip so you may not receive my emails in a timely fashion.

-Dan Crandall

Peters House

Touring Peter's Lumber Mill

Riding near Lake Sunapee

Peter & Elizabeth

Day 2-3 September 26-27: New London, NH & Bar Harbor, ME

Saturday was spent mostly doing preparation work for our tour to Nova Scotia. We bought snacks, bike accessories and put the finishing touches to our van and trailer.      

Van & Trailer

We also took time to tour more of Peter’s holdings including the “Sugar Shack” where Maple Sap that’s been tapped from maple trees is gravity fed to the “Shack” and there becomes Maple Syrup. 

Packed Trailer

Peter's Sugar Shack

Sugar Shack Sign

As of now our group totals 5 people. (The starting 5 are: Myself, Peter, Bill, Joyce and Elizabeth) Rick, Kathie and Steve will be joining us in Bar Harbor tomorrow and Carol and May will be meeting us in Halifax on October 5th.
Sunday morning we piled in the van and drove 315-miles to Bar Harbor, ME. It’s just as well that this was a transit day as it rained for most of the day. We stopped for lunch in Belfast, ME which is a quaint little harbor town situated on the Atlantic coast.

Belfast, ME

Lunch in Belfast

Joyce in Belfast

We arrived at The Collier House, a B&B located near Bar Harbor a little after 3:00pm which left us time to clean-up before driving into the upscale tourist town of Bar Harbor to wander around and have dinner.

Peter, Bill & Joyce at Collier Inn in Bar Harbor

Pond at Collier Inn in Bar Harbor

Tomorrow we will ride in the Acadia National Park (weather permitting)

-ME

Day 4 September 28: Bar Harbor, ME

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 34 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:50
Average Speed: 12.0 mph
Elevation Climb: 3031 ft.

Upon waking up this morning we were greeted by a heavy blanket of fog so we took advantage of the opportunity to have a leisurely breakfast while waiting for the sky to clear.
Blue sky made its appearance around 10:30 and Bill, Joyce and I took to the road. We started off on “Crooked Road” which crosses over to the east coast of Mt. Desert Island. This was a road for riding …. Rolling hills with little traffic and great scenery.

Bill and Joyce on Crooked Road

Farm house on Crooked Road

Upon reaching the coast we almost immediately entered Acadia National Park which affords great bike riding through gorgeous woodlands that are just starting to change to their fall colors along with magnificent overlooks to the Islands bays and harbors bordering the Atlantic Ocean.

Frenchman Bay

The plan called for us to ride the complete Park Loop Road but we somehow missed a turn and ended up heading down the wrong end of the loop. (Due to sections of 1-way traffic you can only complete the loop by going in a clockwise direction). We did manage to complete the 4-mile climb to the top of Cadillac Mountain after which we rode down to Jordon Pond House to have lunch before heading back to our Inn.

Joyce & I at waterfall on Cadillac Mtn

View from the summit of Cadillac Mtn

Joyce & I at the summit

Lunch at Jordon Pond

Lunch at Jordon Pond

It was almost a perfect ride: the weather, scenery and company were excellent but the hills were a bit of a struggle for me. (I anticipate that my climbing ability will improve as the tour moves along)

-ME

Day 5 September 29: Bar Harbor, ME to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

It was a good thing that today was a transit day as dreary skies, rain and wind were on Mother Nature’s agenda. We loaded up the van and caught the 8:00am ferry for the 3-hour trip to Yarmouth in Nova Scotia, Canada. Due to the inclement weather conditions, it was a very bad time for me to be in a boat. The swells were 8-9 feet and I was not a happy camper. I didn’t lose my breakfast but it was a very near thing. Unfortunately, many, oh sooo many, people were not so lucky. The cacophony of people puking was something to behold. …. Dry heaves, wet heaves … there was something for everybody. What a miserable experience. I was very happy to arrive in Yarmouth.

Arriving in Yarmouth Harbor

Mural in Yarmouth

We’re staying at a very nice B&B where the rooms are themed for specific decades. I’m staying in the 1940′s Room.

B&B in Yarmouth

The gang going to dinner in Yarmouth

Tomorrow, our journey starts in earnest as we travel 54-71 (depending on an optional loop) miles on the Lighthouse Trail from Yarmouth to Barrington.

-ME

Day 6 September 30: Yarmouth to Barrington

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 55 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:55
Average Speed: 14.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 1483 ft.

We awoke to glorious fall sunshine for our first day of riding the Nova Scotia Lighthouse Trail. The Lighthouse Trail road meanders near the coastal inlets with great views of the marshes and water ways that make up the coast of Nova Scotia.

Rick, Joyce & Bill

Farm Art

Along the way we bore witness to hundreds of stacked Lobster cages standing ready for Lobster season which begins in November up here. Scallops are fresh and in season now and are very tasty.

Notice the Lobster traps stacked near the water

UFO Site

You'd think if they named a Ice Cream Shop for me they'd at least spell "Shop" correctly

It was a great day for riding and I had a lot of fun today.
Tomorrow’s 45-66 mile ride (depending on an optional loop) takes us from Barrington to Shelburne.

-ME

Day 7 October 1: Barrington to Shelburne

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 45 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:59
Average Speed: 15.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 1326 ft.

It was a chilly but sunny morning when we started today’s ride to Shelburne. It was another nice ride on very good roads with little traffic and great scenery. Unfortunately, as the day progressed the sky became cloudy and the wind picked up. I elected not to take the extra Peninsula Loop as a hot shower sounded marvelous.

Marshland

Riders on the road

Fishing Boats

The road ahead

The small town of Shelburne, where we’re staying tonight, is playing host to the production of a 2-part TV miniseries remake of Moby Dick. We had a chance to wander around the outdoor set this afternoon. It’s amazing how authentic those fake buildings look from the outside. The movie stars William Hurt as Ahab, Gillian Anderson as his wife Elizabeth, Ethan Hawke as Starbuck and Donald Sutherland as Father Mappel. Donald Southerland is staying in our small B&B Inn. (The Cooper’s Inn – established 1784).

The Cooper's Inn

Waterfront of Shelburne

The "Nantucket Wharf" building is fake

"Nantucket Wharf" building from behind

This church and cemetery are fake

Me posing with whale bones (they're real)

Kathie taking a well deserved rest

Our Tour Organizer, Leader and Princess (Elizabeth) and our Czar of Transportation (Peter) shared birthdays today and we enjoyed celebrating the occasion with them.

OK, Pet Peeve time – I need someone to enlighten me about the reason for this:
There’s a trend that seems to be getting worse with each passing year. Today, I walked into my room and counted 10 pillows of various shapes and sizes on the bed …. 10 PILLOWS!! Since there were only 2 pillows that can actually be used for sleeping on, what am I supposed to do with all the excess pillows? What’s their purpose? It’s a small room and the only thing I can do with them is throw them on the floor. Is this why they call them “throw pillows”?

10-Pillows!!

-ME

Day 8 October 2: Shelburne to Liverpool

Daily Stats:

Mileage: 24 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:36
Average Speed: 14.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 687 ft.

I woke up feeling a little out of sorts this morning. I may be catching a cold (it’s typical for me to catch one at the beginning of the Fall season.) I rode in the van for the first 20-miles waiting for the temperature to warm-up a bit before beginning my ride and only rode 24-miles before bagging it for the day. I feel better now but I still have a tickle in my throat. Hopefully a good night’s sleep will help.

Baptist Church

Fall reflections

The road ahead

A pretty inlet

Bridge near our Inn in Liverpool

Liverpool

I plan to ride about 40-miles tomorrow and then I will drive the van and trailer (we all take turns driving) to Lunenburg.

-ME

Day 9 October 3: Liverpool to Lunenburg

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 53 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:37
Average Speed: 14.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 2059 ft.

Great companions, blue sky, no wind, magnificent scenery, little traffic and mostly gentle rolling hills made today’s ride an almost perfect experience. This is why I ride a bike! Enough said ….. enjoy the pictures.

Sheltered Cove

Lobster Fisherman at home

Riders on the road

Pastures

Inlet

Lunch stop at LaHave Bakery

Ferry across the Lahave River

Dairy Farm

Our Inn in Lunenburg

Lunenburg Wharf

Lunenburg

Thanks to all that responded to my questioning the need for Throw Pillows. The correct answer comes courtesy of Sue: “To aggravate men”
I also liked: “put them on the floor so when you get up late in the night you can walk on them to the bathroom and not get your feet cold.”
Well, that’s it for today, it’s time for me to sign-off and cuddle up with my 5 Throw Pillows for the night.

-ME

Day 10 October 4: Lunenburg to Queensland

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0.0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.

When I’m on one of these bicycle trips I, along with most other riders, am obsessive about checking the weather conditions for the next riding day. When I looked at the forecast for today I was dismayed to find that rainy conditions would persist throughout the whole day. Now, I’ve never had fun riding in the rain …. It cuts visibility for both you and the cars on the road; it makes the road slippery; if someone is riding in front of you, there’s a “rooster tail” consisting of water and road grime to avoid; it’s very easy to become cold; and worst of all is the squishy socks (I HATE squishy socks!) So I, along with everyone, except Elizabeth and Steve, opted to ride in the nice, dry, and warm van to our next destination. …… I chose wisely. It’s really too bad it was raining as the route would have been spectacular to ride on a better day.

Mahone Bay

Carved Pumpkins; Mahone Bay

Fruit stand; Mahone Bay

Joyce, Rick, Kathie and Store owners

At the Surfside Inn in Queensland

Tomorrow’s 55-mile ride will take us into Halifax.

-ME

Day 11-12 October 5-6: Queensland to Halifax to Baddeck

Dear friends and family,

The last couple of days have been very difficult for our little bicycle group. Peter Crowell suffered an apparent heart attack and passed away in his hotel room last Sunday afternoon.
Peter was a kind and generous man and I was proud to call him a friend. He was a man who enjoyed life and was on this trip doing what he loved. He will be missed.
Unfortunately, even though we were all in an emotional state of shock, we had to make some fairly quick decisions about where we all go from here.
Bill and Joyce are driving back to Peter’s house in New Hampshire to give their personal condolences to Peter’s family and offer whatever assistance they can. The rest of us are going to continue to ride again from Baddeck although we will shorten our route by a few days.
I’m continuing the ride because I firmly believe it’s the right thing for me to do. What better way to honor my friend Peter then by riding and traveling with mutual friends regaling each other with Peter stories? Peter’s death is also a vivid reminder that life is fleeting and you need to live life to the fullest and don’t take it for granted.
I was also influenced by Peter’s son who encouraged the rest of us to continue the ride and to: “Ride an extra mile for Dad.”
My plan is to still continue with a daily journal. I know some of you probably strongly disagree about my decision to continue “vacationing” after such a tragic loss and I totally understand and encourage you ask to be taken off my email list for the remainder of this journey.

-Dan

Day 13 October 7: Baddeck to Ingonish Ferry

Daily Stats:

Mileage: 44 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:14
Average Speed: 13.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 2479 ft.

It was a gorgeous Fall day here on the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia. The sun was shining and we were anxious to start the day and take in the sites. With Carol and May joining us in Halifax, our group now totals 7. We set off at a fairly leisurely pace as we had all day to cover 45-miles. We had plenty of time to stop, take pictures and even relax with hot chocolate and Apple Strudel at a roadside café.

Steve & Kathie

Our ferry

May, Carol, Elizabeth, Katie, Me and Steve in the Ferry

Cabot Trail sign

View from the road

The road ahead

We did encounter a grunt of a climb towards the end of the ride though.

A grunt of a climb

View from part way up Smokey

Fall Foliage descending from Smokey

View from our Inn

May, Kathie & Carol relaxing

A fairly big storm is projected to sweep through this area tonight with rain showers and strong winds forecast for tomorrow’s ride through Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

-ME

Day 14 October 8: Ingonish Ferry to Cheticamp

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.

Rain and gale force winds of 30-40mph with gusts up to 60mph greeted us as we woke up this morning. So we immediately got on our bikes and started pedaling ………….. NO WE DID NOT! ….. do you think we’re nuts!? What we did was have a nice leisurely breakfast after which we loaded all the bikes and luggage in the van and started the drive to Cheticamp. It’s really a shame the weather didn’t cooperate because the route from Ingonish Ferry to Cheticamp is really the signature ride of the whole trip. Dramatic scenery, long climbs and fast descents would have made it a great riding experience. Alas, it was not to be but the van ride was still beautiful.
About half-way through the drive to Cheticamp, the rain lessened and the wind subsided a bit so first May, then, a little later, Carol decided to brave the weather and ride the rest of the way. (These Sister’s girls come from hardy stock)

Elizabeth being blown off the deck

Rugged coastline

Rugged coastline

Our group and an ocean overlook

The road ahead

Our road follows the coast

Elizabeth and I

Tomorrow, we ride back to Baddeck where we will be staying for the next week or so.

-ME

Day 15 October 9: Cheticamp to Baddeck

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 25 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:29
Average Speed: 16.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 1031 ft.

The rain had stopped but it was still cloudy and cold with a very strong wind ….. but ……. It was a TAILWIND!! Time to ride! I was in no hurry though and stopped to take pictures and admire the countryside. Rick has been fighting a cold and has been driving the van and providing excellent SAG support so I decided to join him after about 25 miles. Nothing was wrong, I was feeling good and I enjoyed the ride but I decided it would be nice to get in early. After cleaning up Rick, Kathie and I went into town to do laundry and have lunch. Tonight we have tickets to: “Island to Island: The Cape Breton-Ireland Musical Bridge” in Port Hawkesbury. It’s kind of an intro to Celtic week where each band performs a couple of songs.

View of the countryside

Small harbor with lobster traps

Joe’s Scarecrows

The coast

Carol and May

Hillside colors

-ME

Day 16 October 10: Baddeck

Yesterday we all attended the “Island to Island: The Cape Breton-Ireland Musical Bridge” in Port Hawkesbury. It was a very good concert but it lasted for almost 4-hours and it was well after midnight before we got back to our Inn in Baddeck.
We’re socked in today ….. Rain all day. All of my companions are attending an afternoon Celtic concert in Inverness. (I decided to kick my feet up and do a little reading today) This evening, Elizabeth, May, Carol and Steve will attend yet another concert in Wagmatcook with Rick and Kathie joining me for dinner here in Baddeck.
We’re supposed to see sun tomorrow so the plan is to do a late morning ride near Louisbourg then attend a 6:00pm concert.

-ME

Day 17 October 11: Baddeck to Englishtown

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 24 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:37
Average Speed: 14.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 997 ft.

We all headed in different directions today. Since we have two vehicles, we have a lot of flexibility. Steve decided he wanted to cycle in the Baddeck vicinity and take pictures of the local architecture. May, Carol, and Elizabeth drove toward Louisbourg, the venue for our concert tonight, and rode along the Mira River. Kathie, Rick and I decided to bicycle to Englishtown and back from our Inn in Baddeck. The sun was shining and we had a fairly strong tailwind as we headed out towards Englishtown. I knew it was going to be a short ride so I put some effort into my pedaling …. It felt good.

Rick & Kathie ready to ride

Kathie on the road

After completing the ride Rick, Kathie and I had plenty of time to clean-up and have lunch in Baddeck before starting the drive to Louisbourg where tonight’s dinner concert is being held.

In the town of Baddeck

Me, Kathie and Rick (on the way to Louisbourg)

Bridge on the way to Louisbourg

The concert is taking place in “Fortress of Louisbourg”. This site is the largest reconstruction project in North America. In the early 1700′s it was a French enclave and the fourth largest shipping port in North America. The British captured it 1748. So far only a small portion has been excavated and rebuilt.
This is a small venue and only 150 of us were there to enjoy the dinner and concert by candlelight. The musicians were very good and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Fortress of Louisbourg

Reconstructed Fortress of Louisbourg

Steve and I at dinner

-ME

Day 18 October 12: Baddeck

Quick ……. What’s a four letter word that rhymes with blow? …….. SNOW!!! That’s right, a light layer of white pollution was covering the ground as I made my way down from my loft this morning. It didn’t last long but cold weather, high winds and intermittent rain squalls would continue to plague us throughout the day. I didn’t really mind it though; it was a good day to relax and read a good book. There seems to be a pattern here ….. one day of sunshine followed by a stormy day.
Today is Thanksgiving Day here in Canada and so we celebrated by ordering a traditional lobster dinner. …… I think we, in the States, should ditch the Turkey and adopt this tradition.
Rick, Kathie, Steve and I elected not to attend any Celtic concerts today. A group of musicians stay here at the Broadwater Inn each year while attending the Celtic Color Concerts and we were treated to a Jam Session in the Parlor of our Inn. There was a bass, mandolin, and a couple of guitars. …. the fiddle player doesn’t arrive until tomorrow. It was an enjoyable evening.

Jam Session

-ME

Day 19 October 13: Little Narrows Loop

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 35 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:35
Average Speed: 13.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 2190 ft.

Well, it wasn’t raining or snowing and the wind wasn’t howling but it was still darn cold as we departed Baddeck to take on The Little Narrows Loop by bicycle. This is our last day of riding and it’s the first time that our group has had the opportunity for all of us to bicycle together. (No one has to provide Van support today.) It wasn’t an easy ride as there were many hills along with wind and cold to contend with. It was a pretty ride and we all enjoyed the challenge.

Ready to ferry over to The Little Narrows

Riders on the road

Miniature Thanksgiving Scene

Lighthouse

Tomorrow we start the long drive back to New Hampshire to return the van and trailer. We plan to take our time and will spend one night at a hotel along the way.

-ME

Day 20-21 October 14-15: Baddeck to New London, NH

Final Stats:
Mileage: 362 miles
On-Bike Time: 25:49
Average Speed: 14.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 17,146 ft.

It’s been a bittersweet journey. The untimely passing of my friend, Peter Crowell, will forever impress this trip into my memory.
I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to my riding companions …. I found your companionship, conversation and humor to be very cathartic.
I also want to thank, you, my faithful readers, for your kind thoughts and support … it was a comfort to hear from so many of you.

Happy Trails,
-Dan

February 27 – March 1: On my way

 Hi all,

You are receiving this email because sometime in the past you expressed an interest in receiving daily accounts of my various bicycle adventure tours. Now perhaps you were just being polite and didn’t want to come right out and say “frankly, I find that my SPAM email is of far more interest to me than reading your daily blathers.” If so, this is your chance to Opt-Out …. Just send me an email and I’ll be happy to remove your name from the Exalted List.
This 38-day bicycle excursion will take me from Santiago, Chile up into the High Andes of Bolivia, into Argentina and Uruguay before concluding in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
The tour company is ExperiencePlus! :
http://www.experienceplus.com/tours/tours.html?tid=1593
This is the same tour company I happily traveled with in Eastern Europe in 2007 along with the same excellent leaders, Monica and Michele.

I arrived in Santiago, Chile last Friday after having endured 14-hours flying time across 4 time zones. (a 5-hour time difference since Chile is now on Daylight Savings Time) The tour doesn’t officially start until 5:00pm on Sunday so I have a few days to check out the sites in and around the Capital city of Santiago.
A short time after my arrival I caught up with Fritz, a fellow alumni of the Eastern Europe trip, and we spent a couple of hours walking the town.

Farmer's Market

Santiago Street Art

Upon returning to our hotel we caught up with Bill Weidenfeller and we caught a cab to the Bellavista neighborhood for dinner. This section of the city is very popular with the younger set and the street-side cafes and bars were packed. We managed to find a table inside the restaurant “como Agua para Chocolate” where I enjoyed an excellent and inexpensive salmon dinner.

Dan, Monica and Bill

On Saturday, Bill convinced Fritz and I to join me him for an organized bus tour to the Pacific Coast resort town of Vina del Mar and the port city of Valparaiso.

Bill and Fritz

Our first stop was at Vina del Mar which is a fairly modern beachside resort town.

Vina del Mar

After a pleasant lunch we headed to Vina del Mars sister city, Valparaiso, which is older and rougher and is the principal port of Chile. Up until 1914, this port was the financial center of Chile and very wealthy. All shipping headed from the Pacific to Atlantic Oceans was required to stop in Valparaiso and pay duties. The city declined rapidly upon the completion of the Panama Canal.

Overlooking Valaparaiso

Valaparaiso

Valaparaiso

Valaparaiso Dock

Today we took a hike up to San Cristabal where we were rewarded with a panoramic view of Santiago. Unfortunately, it was very smoggy today which spoiled the enjoyment somewhat.

San Cristabal

View of Santiago from San Cristabal

This evening was the first meeting of all tour members. There are only 10 riders on this trip. Besides Fritz and Bill, I find myself reunited with Mary Gantz and Polo Sanchez from the Eastern Europe trip.

Our Group

Tomorrow, we have an early morning flight to the coast city of Antofagasta. From there we shuttle 180km (112 miles) north to Tocopilla where we will be fitted on our bikes.

-Dan

Day 2 March 2: Santiago to Tocopilla

Today was mostly a transit day. It was a very early start as we had to catch a 7:30am flight out of Santiago. A 2-hour flight brought us north to Antofagasta on the Chilean coast. From there we all boarded a shuttle bus for the 112 mile ride north to Tocopilla where we will begin our bicycling adventure. Along the way we made a brief stop in the port town of Mejillones for a light snack.

Mejillones Bruch Stop

Mejillones Beach

It’s really barren in this part of Chile. The annual rainfall is near zero inches per year and almost nothing grows that isn’t watered by man. I’ve seldom seen a more desolate landscape.

On the bus to Tocopilla

This part of Chile is dominated by the Copper Mining Industry and almost everyone works for or supports the mines. Copper is also the number one export for the Country. Upon arriving in Tocopilla we checked in at the Hotel Antenas ….. it’s clean, if a bit on the spartan side.

Hotel Atenas - Tocopilla

The town of Tocopilla is a bit worn and frazzled around the edges but the people are friendly.

Tocopilla

We had plenty of time in the afternoon to wander around town, get our bikes outfitted and take a test ride.

Dan on a test ride

Train above Tocopilla

The weather here has been good …. A little warm in the afternoon but not uncomfortable. So far, the food here in Chile has been outstanding ….. a lot of fresh fish and no fancy sauces to spoil it.
Tomorrow is a short 43 mile ride but we’ll be climbing much of the way so it won’t be an easy day. We’ve been invited to tour a small copper mine along the way so it should be an interesting day. We will also be camping tomorrow so I probably will not have an internet connection.

 -ME

Day 3 March 3: Tocopilla to Maria Elena

Group Photo

This was not one of my better bicycling days. Our first day of cycling had us riding 45 miles from Tocopilla to Maria Elena. I’m in the worst bicycling shape I’ve ever been in for a major undertaking such as this tour and my lack of conditioning really showed today. It was to be a 10 mile climb out of Tocopilla and I only made it a couple of miles before I had to stop. It was very warm and I started to get dizzy so I stopped and waited for the van. It turns out that I was dehydrated …. I guess I hadn’t been drinking enough fluids since arriving in South America.

Leaving Tocopilla

Small Copper Mine visited just outside of Tocopilla

I caught a ride with the van to the top of the hill where I rejoined Bill, Fritz and Germano for the remainder of the bike ride into Maria Elena. There was not much to see along the way. It was mile after mile of barren desert landscape. No towns, no nothing exists on this road to Maria Elena.

Dan, Germano & Bill on the road

Germano, Dan & Bill at Maria Elena sign

 This is the only town in Chile that still mines and produces natural nitrates (from bird guano). Unfortunately for Maria Elena, nitrates for fertilizer and gun powder are now able to be produced by a chemical process more economically.

Every town has its warts but Maria Elena is all warts. The only accommodation available for our cycling group is at the community swimming pool where we pitched tents for the night. (I’m glad we camped because I saw no accommodations in town that would be better.)

Camping in Maria Elena

Yoga

Tomorrow we travel 70 miles from Maria Elena to Calama. I still don’t feel so hot …. Hope I feel better tomorrow.

-ME

Day 4 March 4: Maria Elena to Calama

 We broke camp early today, had breakfast in town and then began our 70 mile journey to Calama. I was feeling better but still not great … once you get dehydrated it’s tough to recover.

Leaving Maria Elena

Dan & Germano at a lone tree

Today was another long climb day. It was a gradual 38 mile climb but it got fairly warm as the day wore on. I had to quit after about 40 miles but I didn’t feel anywhere near as bad as yesterday so hopefully I’ll be fully recovered for tomorrow’s 60 mile ride to San Pedro. Today’s scenery was much like yesterdays …… Wow …… this desert is really stark.

Bill & Fritz at the top of a long climb

The other side of the climb

Calama is a fairly large town that is situated near the largest copper mine in Chile. Our accommodations are very nice and modern tonight.

Hotel Agua del Desierto in Calama

-ME

Day 5 March 5: Calama to San Pedro de Atacama

Fritz, Germano & Bill leaving Calama

Germano, Bill, Fritz & Dan in desert

OK, I’m three for three. I thought I was good to go. Today’s ride featured a very long (38 mile), but not very steep, (2-4%) climb. I made 35 of those miles before I once again felt too ill to have any desire to continue the ride. This time it was the altitude that got to me. (I was at about 11,000 feet when I stopped.) It’s really too bad because I missed a very nice downhill into San Pedro. The descent into San Pedro also featured a change for the better in scenery. Though still desert, there are now interesting rock formations and great views of the not too distant Andes.

Descent to San Pedro

Germano & Bill inspecting the road ahead

Located on a river, San Pedro is a small Eco-Tourist town vibrant with youth who gather here for mountain biking, hiking and Sandboarding (like snowboarding except instead of snow, you sled down sand dunes.) There are also plenty of good places to eat and drink in town.

Volcano view in San Pedro

Bob, Fritz, Walter & Bill in San Pedro

I’m feeling better now that I’m at a lower elevation (7500 feet) and I’ve been drinking Coca Tea which is supposed to help alleviate altitude sickness ….. I certainly hope it works.
Tomorrow is a rest day so I will have time to explore San Pedro and the nearby sites.

-ME

Day 6 March 6: Rest Day in San Pedro de Atacama

 I slept pretty well last night and didn’t get out of bed until about 8:30am. I ran into Fritz in the Lobby and we went out to breakfast (ham & cheese omelet) I then went on a little 4-mile hike with Germano to check-out some old adobe ruins just outside of town. It was a pleasant enough hike but it gets a little warm in this area so I was happy to get back to our hotel and out of the sun.

Adobe Ruins

View from the ruins

Cool stone arch

View from Stone Arch

Come mid-afternoon our group took a guided tour of some of the local locations of interest such as Death Valley (where we got to be kids again and run down a large sand dune), Salt Canyon (Where the canyon walls are mostly made of salt) and a trek up to “Valley of the Moon” which affords a great vantage point to watch the sunset.

Death Valley Overlook

Running down the dunes

Salt Canyon

Valley of the Moon: Walking up to catch the sunset

On top of the world - Valley of the Moon

For a more detailed write-up of our journey, you may want to visit Bill Weidenfellers Web Site: www.bikingwithbill.org

Tomorrows ride features the monster of all climbs; 7200 feet of climbing up to an elevation over 15,000 feet in a distance of around 25-miles (I think the average grade is around 6%) ……. that’s a lot of friggin climbing!

-ME

Day 7 March 7: Up the Mountain and Back

 To those that completed the ascent up the Pasa Jama ….. we, the fallen, salute you. Based on my recent performances I knew not to be overly optimistic on my chances of completing this climb ….. my expectations were met as I had to bail after reaching an elevation of about 10,000 feet. Feeling sick is the pits!

Bill and Dan on the long climb up Pasa Jama

Tomorrow we shuttle back up the hill some of us biked up today and spend the next 2 nights in Bolivia exploring various sites on the Bolivian altoplano (camping at 15,000 feet …. yes, we are nuts!)
Obviously there will be no internet access for the next few days.

-ME

Day 8 March 8: Up to the Bolivian altoplano

 Wow, I’ve been up at altitude before and never have I experienced altitude sickness like this. We all hopped on a shuttle bus this morning to make the ascent up to the Bolivian altoplano at an altitude of about 15,000 feet. As we ascended I started feeling worse and worse. (Nausea) Upon arriving at the Bolivian border, I felt dizzy after disembarking from the bus. (See picture of Bolivian Border Custom Office …… This could be the garden spot of Bolivia!)

Bolivian Border Customs

Not one who really enjoys feeling bad, I made the decision to head back down to San Pedro located at a more civilized 7500 feet. (I feel mucho better now) I’ll be on my own for the next couple of days while my tour mates are exploring Bolivia but, since I now have internet access, you, oh so lucky, souls have the privilege of receiving a daily fix of my wit and wisdom.

adiós hasta mañana,

-ME

Day 9 March 9: It’s just another day in San Pedro de Atacama

 Not much to report on today. I’ve spent a leisurely day wandering the streets of San Pedro, taking an afternoon Siesta (Afternoon naps are severely underrated in the USA) and listening to a good book. I did get a surprise when I spotted Monica (Tour leader) at the hotel. It turns out that Mary Gantz had been afflicted with altitude sickness and Monica had accompanied her back down here to San Pedro. Mary’s feeling much better now and she and I walked to the local pastry shop to celebrate our escape from the land of little oxygen. It’s now my contention that those with an abnormally high brain cell count are most affected by the lack of oxygen at high altitudes.

Spider in San Pedro

Tomorrow we’re scheduled to ride the ridge of the Andes (at 14,000 feet) for about 60 miles. There will be a physician available so I think I’ll consult with him/her before attempting to ride at that altitude.

-ME

Day 10 March 10: San Pedro de Atacama to Tocanao and back

 While most of my tour mates were bused back up to 14,000 feet for a 50-mile ride along the Andes ridge, Mary and I, (we of the altitude adverse), stayed behind and instead bicycled to the small town of Tocanao and back (50-miles) While still not feeling 100% it was good to be back on the bike.

Goats along the road

Llamas among the trees

Tocanao Town Square

Moon over San Pedro

I spent a leisurely afternoon by the pool while I waited for the rest of the gang to come back down the mountain.
There appears to be some intestinal problems appearing within the group. Walter was not feeling well this morning so he stayed at the hotel all day. Late this afternoon Bob and Bill were also not feeling 100%. Uh-Oh those van seats might start to fill up fast.
Tomorrow we leave Chile and make our way into Argentina. We’ll still be at altitude so unless I feel real good after our shuttle bus ride up the Andes, I’ll be riding the van.

-ME

Day 11 March 11: San Pedro de Atacama to Susques, Argentina

 I had a visit with the paramedic yesterday afternoon and my blood pressure was a little high so he recommended a slight change in how often I take my blood pressure pills. We’ll be back at civilized altitudes in a couple of days so I may elect mot to ride again until then. In the mean time the Paramedic also supplied us with Coca leaves which he claims is the most effective way to combat altitude sickness. Just stick a wad of Coca leaves between your cheek and gum and you’re ready to go. I gotta tell you, I’m now a fan. Our bus took us to a high of 15,750 feet and I felt fine. It felt so good to feel normal again. Coca leaves ….. don’t leave home without them!

Argentina Border

Church in Susques

6 out of 10 of we riders have come down with the “galloping crud”. They believe they caught it in Bolovia. The only ones not affected are Polo, Mary, Harold and I. (Most of the affected did not bicycle today.
Tomorrow we make a big descent into the town of Purmamarca where we will receive another rest day. I think the town is at 7500 feet ….. Yeah!!

-ME

Day 12 March 12: Susques to Purmamarca

 I wasn’t able to sleep last night. Susques is a small town located about 12,000 feet above sea level and the high altitude is still giving me difficulties. Fortunately, this is the last day we will be spending above 10,000 feet as we slowly make our descent out of the Andes.

Me with Oxygen Tank

Now that we’re in Argentina the natural scenery is definitely changing for the better. There is now moisture in the air and this area actually receives rain so small plants, trees and cactus have made their welcome appearance. Even the rock formations have differing color hues …… very pleasing to the eye. (I’m sure the pictures won’t do them justice though) Normally, I pay little attention to the calls of birds or the sound of insects; they’re just background noise. The absence of such familiar sounds these past few days has been disconcerting and eerie. If you stand still in the dry lands between settlements you literally hear nothing ….. dead silence prevails. That’s all changed now as birds and insects have reappeared along with the vegetation.

Cactus

Adobe home with Solar Panel

Today’s 85 mile ride, (I was in the van until the last 22-miles), once again had us climbing out of Susques before reaching a long wide open desert plain dotted with small shrubs and the occasional llama. Several miles later a line of white appeared on the horizon. It was salt ….. lots of blindingly white salt. The salt layer is several inches thick and the local artisans make salt carvings that you can buy. (Nope …. I resisted the temptation) I did take the opportunity to take a stroll on the salt flat though …. Sunglasses are mandatory.

Salt Flats

Michele riding on Salt Flat

The ride continued until reaching the final ascent of the day …. a long series of switchbacks that would once again take us to over 14,000 feet.

The road uphill

It was at the top of this ascent that I once again got on my bike to make the long winding (30 hairpin curves), 25 mile, 6500 foot descent into the town of Purmamarca.

The road down to Purmamarca

 Due to the number of sharp curves and the spectacularly beautiful scenery, it was not a screaming fast descent and we all took our time and took lots of pictures.

Unfortunately, Harold, (one of our most steady riders), took a fall on the hill which required a couple of stitches to his cheek. Hopefully, he’ll be good to go soon.
Purmamarca is a neat little town, at about the 7500 foot level, filled with the calls of Parrots and dogs.
I don’t think I’ve mentioned the dogs to you. In Chile and now Argentina the dogs run loose. As far as I can tell, nobody claims ownership and most of the dogs seem to sleep during the day and howl at night. Most of them are very friendly though and we have not had many of them give chase to us.
I’m happy to inform you, my faithful readers, (I still find it hard to believe anybody actually reads my journals), that the food here in South America continues to be very plentiful and good. (None of the miniscule portions that are so prevalent in Europe)
As a sit here on the hotel balcony sipping on a cerveza, I am quite content and feeling better than I have since starting the trip. (I’m writing this journal entry on a rest day here in Parmamarca)

Having a Cerveza in Purmamarca

-ME

Day 13 March 13: Rest Day: Purmamarca

Today was a rest day in Purmamarca and I took it easy for the most part. I took a walk around town.

Overlooking Purmamarca

If you’re in to Alpaca sweaters and such this is the place to be. Sweaters could be had for as little as $20 US. I know this may shock those of you who know me well but, I’m not much of a clothe hound so I did not buy anything.

Bill purchasing an Alpaca sweater

This morning most of us piled in the van for a short trip to Pucara de Tilcara (Fortress of Tilcara). It’s a re-constructed pre-Inca Village perched on a hill. The structures are made of stone with mud roofs (Stone is VERY plentiful in these parts) It didn’t look much like a fortress to me …… it looked more like a Florida retirement village.

Fortress of Tilcara

Tonight we had dinner at a small restaurant in town that features live Argentine traditional music. It was a two-man band playing guitar and flute ….. they were quite good. I purchased a CD and will use some of their music on the trip photo/Video DVD I’ll be putting together after the completion of this trip.

Local Band

Tomorrow will be a difficult test for me. It’s almost 100 miles with one significant climb but it features lots of downhill.

-ME

Day 14 March 14: Purmamarca to Salta

 I was feeling good as we, (Bill, Fritz and I), started what was destined to be a glorious 97 mile ride from Purmamarca to Salta. Starting the day with almost 40 continuous downhill miles is guaranteed to bring a smile to my lips. The next 25 miles consisted of small rolling hills, then we went uphill for 15 miles through a lush sub-tropical Rain-Forrest before finally descending another 16 miles into Salta. In all, we lost 3500 feet in elevation today going from 7500 feet down to 4000 feet …… thick air is wonderful!
It was a day of vivid visual contrasts: Our ride took us from the cactus and scrub brush of the small town of Purmamarca down the canyon to where rivers flowed through grassland being grazed by cattle (the llama are now but a memory).

While passing through the city of JuJuy (pronounced as “Hu-Huey”) we stopped to help a stranded motorcyclist pump up his tire with one of our bicycle pumps.

A helping hand to a Motorcyclist

As we started our big ascent we spotted palm trees and fields of corn and sunflower seeds (it was also becoming warmer and much more humid) As we climbed through the hills the vegetation became much more rich, dense and exotic; we saw orchid plants hanging from moss covered trees while ferns and other water hungry underbrush dominated the landscape. Wow! …. What a change over so little travel distance.

Palm Trees in a park

Fritz, Bill and Dan

Dan under Moss covered tree

Salta is a large city of about 800,000 people but I was tired so did not take the time to do any exploring.
Germano (Italy) leaves the tour today, (he only signed up for 2-weeks), so we had a dinner party to see him off. He was a great companion and will be missed. Our group is down to 9 now.

Salta

Farewell dinner for Germano

Tomorrows ride to Coronel de Moldes is short (40 miles) and flat so it should not present any difficulties.

-ME

Day 15 March 15: Salta to Coronel de Moldes

 Since the distance of today’s ride was so short (40 miles), we were able to start our ride at 10:00am and finish it before 1:00pm. With the exception of navigating out of the city of Salta with its bad roads and lack of stop signs, it was a pleasant Sunday morning bike ride.

Goats by the road

Tobacco plants

Riders on the road

Tonight we visited a farm that grows tobacco and raises goats and horses. It also has guest accommodations and a tobacco museum. We stayed for an outdoor dinner and the owner BBQ various cuts of beef for us. It was another very good meal.

Farm (Finca Santa Anita)

Tobacco drying

Meat on the grill

Dinner at the farm

Dinner at the farm

Tomorrow will be a much more challenging day ….. we’ll ride somewhere around 80 miles and there’s hills to climb and it will probably be hot.

-ME

Day 16 March 16: Coronel de Moldes to Cafayate

 Today’s 80 mile ride had us winding through the Quebrada de las Conchas (The Valley of the Seashells – This area was once covered by the Pacific Ocean) It was a spectacular ride with magnificent views of multi-hued rock formations I rode all day with Fritz, Bill, Walter and Bob. We took our time and made many stops for photos.

Bob & Dan on the road

Artisan shop

Dan on the road

Walter on the road

While climbing a small uphill Fritz grabbed onto Bills rear bike bag for a free tow (unknown to Bill) a few seconds later Walter grabbed Fritz’s bike bag so Bill ended up towing both Fritz and Walter up the hill for a period of time. From behind, I could see Bill looking down at his bike trying to discover what the problem was.

Fritz and Walter hitching a rode from Bill

As the day wore on it began to get very hot and I was really dragging during the last 10 miles into Cafayate. (A colonial town famous for its wines and a base for adventure travel in the area.) It was a fun, if tiring, day.

Riders on the road

Ice Cream in Cafayate

Tomorrow is a short 41 mile ride to the town of Amaicha de Valle.

-ME

Day 17 March 17: Cafayate to Amaicha de Valle

 It was a short riding day today (41 miles) so we had a leisurely breakfast and set out upon the road a little before 10:00am.

Leaving Cafayate

The land is once again turning arid and there wasn’t a lot of interesting scenery today. For much of the day we were bunched together on the road (this doesn’t happen much on longer mileage days)

Riders on the road

At about the 30 mile mark we stopped to visit the partially restored ruins of Quilmes. The indigenous community here resisted the Spanish occupation until 1667 when they were finally conquered; the Spaniards forced the population to evacuate the village and march toward Buenos Aires. Nobody survived the trek, and the town of Quilmes fell into ruin. All that’s left in some waist high rock walls that meander up a mountain side. An unimpressed Fritz said it best “This ain’t no Machu Picchu”.

Quilmes ruines

Tomorrow we have a much more challenging ride ….. 110 miles ….. featuring a 14 mile climb up to 9000 feet (we’re at 6600 feet now and I can feel the lack of proper oxygen)

-ME

Day 18 March 18: Amaicha de Valle to Concepcion

 It was a cool and overcast morning that greeted us for the assault up the El Infiernillo (Little Hell) pass; A nearly 20-mile climb up to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. I must admit, I felt a bit of trepidation considering my recent experience with high altitudes. On the way up I kept repeating to myself Germano’s mantra of “Piano, Piano” (slow, slow). Fritz and Bill were patient as we slowly made our way up on less than stellar roads.

Bill & Fritz climbing El Infiernillo (Little Hell) pass

Summit of El Infiernillo

As we neared the summit, I was inspired for I knew there was a blessedly sweet 20 mile descent to come. Alas, upon reaching the summit we quickly discovered that the road surface on the descent was utter CRAP! We alternated between pot-holed crumbling pavement to washboard dirt roads. It really beat the hell out of me. About half way down my front tire flatted out and we were forced to stop and replace the tube. No problem …… I’ve replaced many a tube in my time. Replaced the tube, pumped it up with the supplied hand pump (The kind I hate because it has a tendency to pull the valve stems out when disengaging). Sure as hell …. there was a big whoosh …. and out came the valve stem. That’s OK, Fritz has another spare tube ….. we notice his tube has been patched quite a few times….. unfortunately it doesn’t hold air. We’re down to Bill’s spare tube. I’m very careful not to bend the valve stem while pumping and we are finally set to continue our ride.

Fixing a flat

The view doen to the town of Tafi

I was happy to reach the resort town of Tafi where we had a bite to eat before continuing our journey. Unfortunately we then ascended into a fairly thick fog bank that made visibility difficult so we stopped to eat our lunch at a roadside bus stop where we sat and watched the fog drift by. We were soon on our way and it wasn’t long before we broke out of the clouds as we began what would be a 40-mile descent through a rain forest canyon thick with vegetation. The roadway was not in great shape, but it was in much, much better condition than on our earlier descent. I really enjoyed traversing the various switchbacks and …. well …… how can you not enjoy a 40-mile downhill? From our high of 10,000 feet we descended to an altitude of less than 2000 feet. (Ah…. blessed oxygen).

On a 40-mile descent

Our home tonight is Concepcion, a tired looking industrial town.

Concepcion

Tomorrow we have another long day ….. 100+ miles to Catamarca.
Wow ….. long write-up … anyone still with me?

-ME

Day 19 March 19: Concepcion to San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca

It was another cool overcast day as we began our 96-mile trek to Catamarca, the capital city of the Catamarca region. We are happy for the overcast as it is awfully humid here and I can only imagine how miserable it would be if the sun were to shine. It was to be a day of surprises; today was presented as a fairly flat ride and with Bob leading us out we made very good time whizzing past fields of Soy and other farm produce until we got to about the 50-mile mark.

Bob racing a horse

Then we started to climb …. and climb …. and climb. I don’t know about you, but I consider a 2500 foot climb as significant ….. as in NOT-FLAT. As we ascended, we once again were enshrouded with clinging fog.

Bill and worker with a torch

The descent was fun though and it almost made the climb worthwhile. We stopped at a gas station snack shop for fortification (Gatorade, Lays Potato chips and a chocolate bar). Upon resuming the ride we received the second, and much more pleasing, surprise ….. a raging tailwind! There are very few times when I wish I had a higher gear set but this was such a time. We were traveling at over 30-miles per hour with very little effort …… what a great feeling! But, the bicycle God giveth and taketh away: Like all good things, it didn’t last as the road turned and we were forced to battle a cross-wind. Which brings us to the third surprise; it was supposed to be a 110-mile ride but we were shocked and gratified to find the hotel at the 96-mile mark.
Life is good.

Catamarca

Fritz and I decided to skip tonight’s group dinner of more traditional Argentine cuisine and have a Pizza instead. The pizza wasn’t great but it was the correct choice for me. (Besides, there was a great ice cream shop next door)
After seven straight days if riding, we will get a rest day after completing tomorrow’s approximately 90-mile ride to La Rioja.

-ME

Day 20 March 20: Catamarca to La Rioja

It was a relatively flat straight 97 miles on well maintained asphalt to the city of La Rioja. Bill commented “It’s the Argentine version of the German Autobahn” as some cars zipped past us as speeds that must have exceeded 100mph. As has been the norm, Fritz, Bill and I started the ride together. Soon after, Bob and Walter whooshed by us catching Fritz in their slipstream and he was soon whisked out of sight. Bill and I continued to ride at a nice pace alternating turns in front to break the pesky headwind that was to annoy us all day long. The vegetation gradually changed from cultivated produce fields and olive groves to shrub and cactus as we made our way to drier less humid environs. This was strictly a mileage day and we were very happy to complete the ride and escape the heat of the afternoon sun.

Bob and Walter having a Coke

Watch for cows on the road

The road ahead

After 7 straight days of riding, tomorrow is a well deserved rest day and I will probably not do anything that involves a lot of physical activity.

-ME

Day 21 March 21: Rest Day – La Rioja

It’s 3:00pm and siesta time here in La Rioja ….. most shops and restaurants are closed and there’s nobody walking the streets. It’s also very hot. I only had three tasks today; pick-up my laundry, get more pesos from the Money-wall and purchase bottled water. I’m pleased as punch that I accomplished these tasks in short order and am now able to do what I do best ….. rest and relax. I think it’s time for a nap.

Street sweeper in La Rioja

Buying a Hot Dog

Wlaking the streets of La Rioja

A cathedral in La Rioja

Tomorrow we’ll bicycle 81 miles to Chamical.
hasta mañana,

-ME

Day 22 March 22: La Rioja to Chamical

It was another “mileage day” as there was not much to see along today’s relatively flat 87-mile ride to Chamical. Fritz, Bill and I started the ride at daybreak to try and beat the heat as much as possible but it still got plenty warm as the day wore on.

Roadside shrine

We were soon joined by Javier (our Argentinean guide) and the 4 of us set up a paceline to cut through the head wind which also increased in intensity as the day progressed. It wasn’t a particularly hard ride but I was glad to get off the bike upon reaching the hotel.

Javier, Bill and Dan

This is probably a good time to catch you up on the quality of our hotel accommodations: They vary from Excellent to Spartan. The tour company (ExperiencePlus) does a very good job of finding the best hotels possible along our route. Unfortunately, we’re traveling through some very non-touristy areas and some of the places we overnight in are in a hotel class that I’ve taken to calling “Squeegee hotels”. Squeegee hotels are easily identifiable …… there’s a squeegee in the bathroom near the shower stall. It’s there for you to squeegee the excess water off the bathroom floor after you’ve showered. Today we’re staying at a Squeegee hotel: little beds that are about a foot off the ground, dim lights (probably a good thing) …. But ….. Air conditioning that actually works ….. Yay!

"SqueeGee" Hotel

Tonight were having roasted goat for dinner ….. should be interesting ….. those of you who know me know that I’m always craving a new taste sensation. (Hah!)
Tomorrow we ride approximately 83 miles to Villa de Soto.

-ME

Day 23 March 23: Chamical to Villa de Soto

Today’s 87-mile ride to Villa de Sota was, for the most part, an enjoyable ride through the Argentine countryside. There wasn’t much to see along the road but the skies were cloudy the temperatures very comfortable with almost no wind. The road descended slightly for the first 50-miles and was smooth with little traffic so we were able to make very good time chatting amicably as we rode side by side. The last 37-miles took a bit more effort as we were going slightly uphill but presented us with no real problems.

Riders on the road

Horse and cart near our lunch break

We pulled into Villa de Soto, which lies at the foot of the last mountain range to climb before the big plains, at a little after 1:00pm.
The hotel is very nice (though without internet access) and I am quite content as I write this journal entry. I feel I am getting stronger with each ride and am once again comfortable in the saddle (though my butt is sore).

Our hotel in Villa de Soto

Dan & Bill in 1928 Model A Ford

Tonight we’re to be treated to some live music by some local musicians ….. should be fun.

Local Musicians

Tomorrow we travel 72 miles to the old mining village of Mina Clavero. (now a resort area)

-ME

Day 24 March 24: Villa de Soto to Mina Clavero

We were treated to some live entertainment last night. A couple of local musicians (Vocals, Guitar and accordion) put on a show for our small group at our hotel. They were pretty good and we enjoyed the music.
Some of you were curious as to how I liked the goat dinner we had in Chamical a couple of nights ago. Well …. It was OK …. A little too tough and strong in flavor for my palate so I won’t be going out of my way to find a place that serves goat when I get home ….. but yesterdays steak dinner was excellent.
Fritz has been having a problem all long distance bike riders can relate to ….. the dreaded saddle sores. He’s been forced to stand-up the majority of the time while riding the last couple of days ….. not good. During today’s ride he actually turned the saddle around backwards to try and find some relief ….. it was a no go. (but we all got a good laugh out of it) We all use some form of Butt Butter to keep from having such difficulties. Being somewhat of a Butt Butter Conessieur, I prefer the Assos brand ….. when applied there is a cool menthol sensation that is particularly pleasing.

Fritz and backwards saddle

Today’s ride was also very pleasing. The flat monotonous plains of scrub brush and cacti of the past few days were replaced by palm trees and fields of corn, milo and soya as we slowly traversed the rolling uphill’s that would eventually bring us to the town of Mina Clavero located at the base of the Sierra de Cordoba mountain range. The terrain did flatten out at about the 45 mile mark where we picked up a nice tailwind that would help to speed us through the final 25 miles.

Riders on the road

Parrot nests

Palm Trees

Distant mountain

Landscape near Mina Clavera

It was an excellent biking day ….. life is good!
Tomorrow’s 78 mile ride will have us crossing the Sierra de Cordoba mountain range into the town of Alta Gracia where we will receive a much deserved day off.

-ME

Day 25 March 25: Mina Clavero to Alta Gracia

I knew today’s 74 mile ride to Alta Gracia would be a heavy climbing day and I was prepared for a long day in the saddle. The first, and most daunting, challenge featured a long 30 mile, 4000+ foot climb up to an altitude of 7300 feet over what the locals call “The Sierra Grande”. Thankfully it wasn’t a very steep climb but it still took us, (Fritz, Bill and myself), over 3 hours to reach the summit. The scenery was spectacular though as we were treated to fantastic vistas of valley below during our long journey up the slope.

The road traveled

Along the way we stopped to take many pictures and to repair a couple of flat tires. (It was Fritz’s turn today)

Fixing a flat

Pelts for sale

Bill and Dan

We thought we had reached the top when we were greeted by a large statue of Padre Jose Gabriel Brochero on a donkey. (we even posed for photos)

Dan & Fritz with "Padre Jose Gabriel Brochero"

It turns out that this was a false summit and it would be another 6 miles before we would begin the 30-mile descent down the backside of “The Sierra Grande”.

The descent

The descent was marred by a strong headwind that would have me pedaling some sections of the downhill ….. bummer! The descent still ended far too quickly and we were soon faced with the prospect of crossing “The Sierra Chica”. The small Sierra is a “bump” of a mountain that is only a 600 feet climb over a distance of 2 miles but, portions of it were plenty steep and my legs were already weary from the earlier climb. The descent into the town of Alta Gracia was sweet ….. fast with sweeping curves (they could have been banked better though).
All in all, it was a good day on the bike and with the over 5800 feet of climbing I feel I have earned a day off the bike.
The prosperity of the people here in Argentina is gradually increasing as we head south. The small towns are cleaner and the buildings are in better repair.
One thing I can’t get used to in South America is how late the people eat dinner here. It’s after 8:00pm here in Alta Gracia and we can’t find anyplace open to get a bite to eat. The restaurants here don’t open until after 8:30pm and they really don’t see many customers until 10:00pm. I couldn’t live like this.
Tomorrow is a rest day and most of our group is shuttling 20-miles to the large city of Cordoba to take in the historic sites. My feeling, as of this moment, is that I will stay here in Alta Gracia and rest and relax instead.

-ME

Day 26 March 26: Rest Day – Alta Gracia

Today is a rest day and as I mentioned is yesterday’s email, I have elected not to take the shuttle into Cordoba. Fritz and I took a leisurely stroll into town, took a seat at one of the numerous outside café’s and watched the world go by as we sipped our cappuccino’s and savored our croissants. We wandered around town until they folded up the sidewalks (2:00pm is the start of Siesta time and almost everything closes until 6:00-8:00pm) I am now relaxing by the hotel pool awaiting the return of my compatriots who did the Cordoba thing.

Outdoor Cafe in Alta Gracia

School in Alto Gracia

Hotel pool in Alto Gracia

Tomorrow’s 75 mile ride to Rio Tercero is supposed to feature rolling hills and plenty of wind (Oh joy …. Anybody want to bet that the winds aren’t going to favor us?)

-ME

Day 27 March 27: Alta Gracia to Rio Tercero

As was promised, we experienced the joys of traversing many a rolling hill on today’s 82 mile trek to Rio Tercero …. more than a few of which were of the steep variety.

Steep hills ahead

Smog controls are not in fashion

The traffic was also heavy on sections making riding the narrow roads precarious at times.
At about the 40 mile mark we entered the town of Belgrano where German sailors arrived after the Pocket Battleship Graf Spee was sunk in the Rio de la Plata and Peron accepted the shipwreck victims during WWII. After that, many more Germans came and developed the town, which today resembles something out of a German storybook.

Entering the town of Belgrano

We all got a laugh over the name of one of the local beers “Cerveza Fritz” …. very fitting.

"Cerveza Fritz"

I ate some very tasty apple strudel and then it was time to get back on the road again ….. bummer because it seemed a fun place and I would have liked to spend more time there.

Enjoying Apple Strudel in Belgrano

The area we are now traveling through is definitely more upscale than any place we’ve been on this trip. We passed by numerous new resort style developments located on reservoir water front property.

Horses near a reservoir

Reservoir

Harbor

As the miles rolled by the terrain eventually started to flatten out and we roared into Rio Tercero on the wings of a tailwind. It was tough, tiring and hot but it was also a visually rewarding day.
Life is good.
Tomorrow’s 98 mile ride to Justiniano Posse will have us traveling through the Argentine Pampas (which in the Guarani Indian language means plains)

-ME

Day 28 March 28: Rio Tercero to Justiniano Posse

The Pampas cover almost 300,000 square miles and they lie through the Argentine provinces of Buenos Aires, La Pampa, Santa Fe, and Cordoba, most of Uruguay, and the southernmost end of Brazil. As I told you yesterday, Pompas means “Plains” and that is just what we had today; 106 miles of flat, boring windblown plains. I tell ya …… Kansas has nothing on Argentina when it comes to pancake flat riding.

The Pampas

Horse and buggy

We were riding on a major arterial road so the traffic was heavy at times (lots of large trucks). As the day wore on it got hotter and windier …. Fortunately, the wind was actually helping us at times but still …. It was not one of my favorite rides.
Tomorrow’s 56 mile ride will take us to Cruz Alta.

-ME

Day 29 March 29: Justiniano Posse to Cruz Alta

It was another 53 miles of Pompas …. Nothing but soy, corn, alfalfa and grassland for as far as the eye can see. There were also plenty of large 18 wheelers passing us on the narrow shoulderless roadways. The backdraft as they passed on the opposite side was strong enough to almost bring us to a standstill. The constant buffeting makes for unpleasant riding conditions. The highlight of the day was when Javier and Fritz flew by drafting behind a large John Deere tractor. Bill and I rushed to catch the slipstream so we also could enjoy the free ride.

Drafting a tractor

For those of you who have never drafted behind a large moving vehicle, it’s bicycling nirvana ….. you move as fast as the vehicle with very little physical effort on your part. As long as you remain in the slipstream, you’ll be pulled along. All good things come to an end though and after several miles, the tractor turned off our road. We exchanged thumbs up and a wave as we parted ways. I’m glad it was a short day as I wasn’t feeling very energetic today.
This afternoon, the Mayor of Cruz Alto wants to give our group a tour of a grain silo (déjà vu …. I’m still thinking Kansas)

Tour of Grain Silo

Bicycle Riders in Cruz Alta

Motorcyclists stopped for not wearing helmets in Cruz Alta

Tomorrow we journey 65 miles (more Pompas) to Rosario where we will be spending a rest day. (our final one of the tour.)

-ME

Day 30 March 30: Cruz Alta to Rosario

Today’s 65 mile ride marked our last day of riding through the Pompas (Yea!). I was feeling good today but we were sharing the road with massive trucks once again so I was very glad to reach our hotel in the city of Rosario.

Trucks

Gas Station rest stop

Riding into Rosario

Rosario is the third largest city in Argentina and lies on the banks of a huge wetland furrowed by many meandering rivers that form the system of Rio Parana. This river merges with Rio Uruguay forming Rio de la Plata that goes all the way down to Buenos Aires.
One of the reasons this tour is called an “Expedition” is because not all the routes and hotels have been personally inspected by our tour company. But relying on the internet to visual inspect the accommodations can be misleading; For instance, our hotel looks pretty good from the outside and lobby. It’s only when you exit the lobby into the hallways that you realize that you’re in one of the dreaded “Squeegee hotels”. My room has got to have one of the most efficient bathrooms I have ever seen. You can shower, crap and douche all without getting up off the throne ….. simply amazing! (see photo)

Our hotel in Rosario

Efficiency Bathroom

Tomorrow is a rest day and I will probably take a guided tour of the city.

-ME

Day 31 March 31: Rest Day – Rosario

It’s a rest day and it’s raining here in Rosario. (Glad I’m not riding the bike today) The weather on this trip has been very good up to this point. It’s been a bit toasty at times but we’ve not been rained on and we haven’t experienced the extreme temperatures and humidity of some of my previous journeys. This morning we went on a 2 hour bus tour of the city. It was cool outside but the rain had stopped and we were able to walk around and catch some of the city sites.

Park in Rosario

Monument in Rosario

Afterwards we stopped for lunch at a restaurant near the river. I had a fresh caught river fish called Scrubi …. The texture was good but it tasted pretty bland.

River fish

Bill holding fish

Then it was back to the hotel for an afternoon Siesta. ….. not much to do until after 8:00pm (Dinner)
Tomorrow we will be riding about 68 miles to Rosario del Tala

-ME

Day 32 April 1: Rosario to Rosario del Tala

They don’t allow bicycles on the 37-mile causeway connecting Rosario and Victoria so we were shuttled across the swamplands before beginning our 68 mile trek to Rosario del Tala. The terrain has taken a turn for the better as we found ourselves pedaling through the lush green rolling hills of the province of Entre Rios (between rivers) I was feeling physically good today and I really enjoyed the first part of the ride despite a persistent headwind. Unfortunately, we were once again subjected to heavy truck traffic on a narrow 2 lane road forcing us to stay alert and be ready to bail out into the grass should a truck pass too close for comfort. (This has happened more than a few times)

Riders on the road

Stockyard

Late this afternoon I took advantage of the opportunity to visit a local Gaucho Ranch where they raised pigs and cattle.

Ranch

Pig

Goucho

Sunset

Tonight we were entertained by a couple of local Tango musicians (we’re entering that region of Argentina that is famous for the Tango). They were pretty good and I grabbed a CD to use as background music for my trip video.

Local musicians

It’s getting late and I’m tired so Adios until tomorrow.
Tomorrow’s 75mile ride will take us to Colon (near the Uruguay border).

-ME

Day 33 April 2: Rosario del Tala to Colon

It was hammer day! My legs were feeling exceptionally strong today so I put my head down and rode as hard as I could for 76 miles. It was cool and breezy with an unfortunate headwind that diminished in intensity as the day wore on. I saw no scenery, (just a vague impression of gently rolling green hills), and took few pictures. The traffic was also much less harrowing today which tremendously helped my frame of mind as the miles flew by. We only stopped a couple of times but I did take the opportunity to take a welcome rest in a hammock outside a small store called Posta del Palacia along the way.

Dan in hammock

I was tired but satisfied upon reaching our destination town of Colon.
We’re staying at a very nice hotel tonight in Colon which is located near the border of Uruguay.

Our hotel in Colon

We cross the border tomorrow and will ride about 90 miles to the town of Mercedes. I will probably be back to my normal slow self tomorrow as I’m sure I’ll be sore from today’s effort.

-ME

Day 34 April 3: Colon, Argentina to Mercedes, Uruguay

It was an early group start today as we had a new border to cross. Today we crossed the Uruguay River into the small country of Uruguay where we traveled 93 miles to the town of Mercedes. The river Rio Uruguay has recently been the theater of a diplomatic conflict between Argentina and Uruguay, as residents of both sides started protesting against the project of building two big paper-plants, claiming that they will pollute the river shared by the two countries. (It’s all political mumbo-jumbo as modern plants can be made to be non-polluting)

Group picture at Uruguay Border

Upon passing into Uruguay we all noticed big black clouds ahead ….. not good! It wasn’t long before we were treated to the pleasures of riding through a nice thunder storm. Rain, some hail, thunder and lightning ….. we took immediate shelter at a gas station to wait out the deluge.

Threatening clouds

Walter preparing for rain

After about a half hour the rain let up enough for us to continue but I was not in a stellar mood …. squishy socks bring out the worst in me. The traffic wasn’t bad but the roadway had some bad sections and we were forced to pedal against a fairly strong crosswind under skies that threatened yet more rain. There were also numerous not-so-gentle rolling hills to contend with. Bill and I found ourselves riding together under these adverse conditions as we have so often in past rides. The low point of the ride was when Bill got a flat at about mile 40 and it started to rain as he was fixing it. The rain didn’t last long and we soon found the van parked at a turn in the road. We stopped to have a quick lunch and grab some snacks from the van. We were soon on our way and upon making the turn we suddenly had the wind at our back, the roadway got wider and was well-paved. The rolling hills flattened out and the skies cleared a bit. What a difference! I was actually able to enjoy the ride. This is mostly farm land planted with many acres of corn, soy and sunflowers. We also passed numerous acres of Eucalyptus tree farms that supply timber for the paper-plants. There’s something unnatural about seeing trees planted in rows like wheat ready to be harvested. The effect is not unpleasing to the eye though.

Eucalyptus grove

It was a long day (we spent over 6 hours in the saddle) and we were happy to reach our hotel for the night.
Tomorrow we ride about 63 miles to Carmelo.

-ME

Day 35 April 4: Mercedes to Carmelo

I awoke to the pitter patter of rain on the roof and I immediately knew that I would not be electing to ride a bike today. The forecast was for rain all morning diminishing in the afternoon.

Rding in the rain

Bill and Fritz

As it turns out the rain quit sooner than expected and it wouldn’t have been a bad day to ride but I was fine with riding in the van today as I’ve done quite a bit of riding the past few weeks. Upon arriving in the town of Carmelo, I took a stroll to the beach on the Rio de la Plata where I had a Cerveza and Papas Fritas at an outdoor café.

Dan in cafe by the river

Oh, I’ve neglected to mention; for the past several days, we’ve been witness to the annual tarantula mating ritual where male tarantulas leave their holes in search of female companionship. We see these large spiders crawling on or near the road.

Boris the spider

Sometimes they encounter a car with predictable results:
“He’s come to a sneaky end”
“Don’t think he will ever mend”
“Never more will he crawl round”
“He’s imbedded in the ground”
-Boris the Spider –The Who-
Tomorrow’s 43 mile ride will take us to Colonia del Sacramento (Just across the river from Buenos Aires)

-ME

Day 36 April 5: Carmelo to Colonia del Sacramento

It was a glorious day for the last day of bike riding on the tour …. The sun was shining, the birds were chirping and I felt great after yesterday’s day off the bike. Fritz and Bill elected to attend a 10:00 Mass in Carmelo so I rode alone today ….. just me, the rolling hills and wide open farm lands.

Old truck on the road

It was a very fast 49 mile ride for me and I found myself in Colonia after a little over 2 ½ hours. Colonia del Sacramento is on the opposite side of Buenos Aires on the Rio de la Plata. The town was founded by the Portuguese in the 17th Century and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. …… I really like this town!

Old fort in Colonia

Very small cable car

Light House

Tomorrow we take a ferry across the river to Buenos Aires where we will take a tour of the city by bicycle followed by a gala final celebration dinner.

-ME

Day 37 April 6: Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires

We caught the morning Ferry in Colonia and arrived in Buenos Aires at around 11:00am.

Group photo before leaving Uruguay

Our hotel rooms were not yet ready so a 3 hour bicycle tour for a portion of the city was arranged. It was an interesting overview of the city.

Pedestrian bridge

Tour group

After the tour we went to the hotel where I showered and proceeded to explore more of the city on foot …… big city ….. lots of people …… great shopping (if you’re into that sort of thing)
We had our farewell dinner tonight …. Lots of good food and wine with much reminiscing about the trip.

Last Supper

The road traveled

As with all of my long trips, it’s hard to believe it’s over. When you’re with a small group of people for 6 weeks you kind of get used to having them around and it’s kind of sad to part ways. Most of us have extended our stay in Buenos Aires for a few extra days and tomorrow tonight I will be attending a soccer game. (Partido River vs. National).
Tomorrow, some of us have elected to do another bicycle tour of a different section of the city. (This city is WAY too big to walk)

-ME

April 7-9: Buenos Aires

I attended a football (soccer) match between Argentina and Uruguay last Tuesday. The enthusiasm of the crowd was something to behold ….. the fans never stopped singing throughout the whole game. (0-0 tie).

Football (Soccer) match

Yesterday (Wednesday) we, (Fritz, Bill, Bob, Monica, Michele and myself), took a leisurely guided bicycle tour of Palermo district of Buenos Aires ….. it was relaxing and fun. 

Fritz, Dan & Bill on their Cruisers

Last night we attended a traditional Argentine Dinner Tango show (Sabor a Tango). It featured not only Tango, but also traditional folk music. …… it was very good, a lot of fun and a great way to spend our last night in Argentina.

Attending a Tango Show

Sabor a Tango: Fritz, Dan, Bill, Monica & Michele

I leave for home tonight (Thursday) and will arrive home on Friday. It’ll be good to sleep in my own bed once again.

Final thoughts:
As I think back upon this trip I am struck by the contrasts of the places we visited; from the stark high Andean deserts of Chile and Northern Argentina to the lush sub-tropical forests of Central Argentina and the fertile farm lands of Southern Argentina and Uruguay.

Food:
The food on this trip has been, by far, the best of any long distance trip I have taken. Great tasting seafood in Chile, Beef and Pasta in Argentina/Uruguay in sufficient quantities to sate even a bicyclists ravenous appetite. (Great ice-cream too!)

Accommodations:
The quality of the hotels we stayed out was a bit spotty ranging from great to what could kindly be called “rustic” or “basic” …..hmmmm … OK, let’s be honest …. We were in some really crappy hotels for a few nights, but they were the best available for where we were and we had some pretty good laughs over some of the bathroom fixture placements.

Roads:
The roads we traveled were generally good, (with a few noted exceptions), but narrow and there seemed to be a correlation: the better the road, the more traffic on the road. The automobiles were OK but the trucks were a real problem for several days.

Terrain:
Wow! …. We had it all; 16,000 foot mountains to sea-level plains, 30-mile climbs and amazing downhills, seemingly endless miles of flat Pompas and days of rolling hills. There was something for everyone to enjoy. (or not) I just regret that I was not able to handle the higher altitudes. I missed some interesting sites because of it.

People:
The people have been great! We often heard shouts of welcome from people we passed on the road and I never felt unsafe anywhere we traveled.

Friends and Family:
I want to thank you, my readers, for your support and encouragement during the difficult parts of this journey.

It was a great adventure ….. Life is good!

-ME

Dan Crandall’s daily journal: June 25 – July 5, 2008

Day 1 June 25: Front Royal, VA

 
Howdy Y’all,

You are receiving this email because at some time in the past you expressed an interest in hearing about my bicycle adventures. If, for some bizarre reason, you no longer wish to benefit from my extraordinary wit and wisdom, please let me know and I will take you off the email list.
This tour is a bit different than most of my other adventures; This “self-supported” 11-day, 600-mile ride starts in Front Royal, VA where we ride on Skyline Drive through Shenandoah National Park to Waynesboro, VA. From Waynesboro, we ride on the Blue Ridge Parkway until reaching Cherokee, NC. The ride features 60,000 feet of climbing in 9-riding days. (we have one day off scheduled in Blowing Rock, NC) It’s supposed to be one of the most spectacular rides in the USA. …. It’s also very difficult due to all the climbing involved.
There are 11 participants for this adventure:

• Elizabeth from Oregon: The planner and organizer of this tour. She invited the participants and spent untold hours setting up all the reservations and arranging the logistics that go into a trip such as this. Elizabeth was on the 2005 Mississippi River Ride and the 2007 Eastern Europe trip with me.
• Jon (Elizabeth’s husband): A non-rider, Jon has volunteered to drive the van and support us on the road. (we have rented a 12-passenger van and a U-Haul trailer to haul us, our bikes and luggage)
• John from Colorado: John was on the 2007 Eastern Europe trip with me last year
• Peter from New Hampshire: I met Peter in Sebring, FL last December and he joined me on the Southwestern USA tour last month.
• Rick from Pennsylvania: Rick was on the 2004 Cross Country Challenge, 2005 Mississippi River Ride, 2007 Eastern Europe trip and the 2008 Southwestern USA trip with me.
• Kathie (Rick’s wife): Kathie was on the 2007 Eastern Europe trip with me.
• Carol from Oregon
• Jim from North Carolina: Jim was on the 2005 Mississippi River Ride with me.
• Bill from Florida: Bill was on the 2004 Cross Country Challenge, 2005 Mississippi River Ride, 2006 Across America North, 2007 Eastern Europe trip and the 2008 Southwestern USA trip with me.
• Sue from Oregon

 As you can tell, I have met a lot of good friends while doing these long distance bicycle rides.
We all met up in Asheville, NC on June 24^th where we were treated to a great homemade meal by host Jim and his wife, Pat. The next day, we all piled in the van and drove the 600-miles to our starting point in Front Royal, VA (We drove to Front Royal on the Interstate highway and not the Parkway)
I will attempt to update you on my progress through daily journal email but I’m told that there won’t be internet access through much of the trip so you may not receive my emails in a timely fashion.

-Dan Crandall

Day 2 June 26: Front Royal to Big Meadow Lodge (Shenandoah National Park), VA

 
Daily Stats:
Mileage: 53 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:03
Average Speed: 10.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 6851 ft.

We spent the night at Woodward House; A neat Bed and Breakfast located about ½ a mile from the entrance to Skyline Drive and Shenandoah National Park.

1 Woodward House

I had a big breakfast where I stuffed myself with a Ham & Cheese Omelet, Potatoes, Toast, Blueberry Muffin, Fruit and Oatmeal topped with spiced apple slices.

2 Breakfast

We rode as a group to the sign welcoming visitors to Shenandoah National Park where we took the obligatory group photo before proceeding on our way.

3 Skyline Entrance

The traffic was very light and slow moving, the drivers were courteous and the road conditions were very good throughout the days ride …. It is really a pleasure to ride in such conditions. The scenery was also spectacular as we took in fabulous vistas of the tree studded valleys below. We also spotted quite a few deer today and they are not at all afraid of people as they will come within a couple of feet of you.

4 Me

Today’s ride was only 53-miles but, because there was almost 7000 feet of climb, it took all I had to complete it. The good news was the climbs weren’t horribly steep (4-8% Grade) but they seemed to go on forever ….. the downhills were great though. The weather also cooperated ….. cool in the morning, hotter in the afternoon but there was quite a bit of humidity (I’ve never gotten used to humidity …. Is such a thing even possible?)
It was a good start to the journey.
Tomorrow’s 55-mile ride to Waynesboro, VA is what Elizabeth is calling a recovery ride as we only climb about 3500 feet.

-ME

Day 3 June 27: Big Meadow Lodge to Waynesboro, VA

 
Daily Stats:
Mileage: 55 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:50
Average Speed: 14.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 3557 ft.

Today’s 55-mile ride to Waynesboro, VA completed our bicycling on Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park. It was another marvelous day for riding; the sun was shining early and when the temperatures began to climb in the afternoon, some clouds rolled in just in time to cool us off. For much of the ride we rode through canopies of trees that not only kept us shaded but also served to block the wind. The hills weren’t quite as steep as yesterday’s ride which was a welcome relief to us all and there were some great downhills which always give me great joy. The roads were in good condition (except for a few areas that they were preparing for re-paving) and there was little traffic. I can’t emphasize enough how nice it is to ride when there aren’t cars buzzing by you at 55mph. It also affords us the luxury of being able to converse and solve the world’s problems while riding.


5 Peter

My legs are feeling a little fatigued so tomorrow’s ride on the Blue Ridge Parkway to Bedford, VA promises to be difficult for me; 86-miles with 8500 feet of elevation climb. ….. man, that’s a lot of hills!

-ME

Day 4 June 28: Waynesboro to Bedford, VA

 
Daily Stats:
Mileage: 29 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:44
Average Speed: 10.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 3311 ft.

6 Blue Ridge Parkway Entrance

I’ve never claimed to be much of a hill climber so I expected I would have a tough time with this trip. I knew early on in today’s ride that I would not be able to complete the 86-mile route. I felt a definite lack of energy and every hill was a struggle for me so I bailed after completing 29-miles with 3300 feet of climbing. I thought I had trained pretty hard for this ride so it’s a bit of a disappointment not to perform well. Oh well, cycling is a funny sport and hopefully, I’ll feel stronger tomorrow.
The Blue Ridge Parkway so far has lived up to its billing as one of the most beautiful byways in America. Lots of lush tree studded hills with plenty of Overlooks to the valley spread below.


7 View from Overlook


It did get very warm and humid today and there was a violent late afternoon thunderstorm that caught some of the riders before they could complete the ride. The van was there to pick them up and bring us all to our hotel.

8 View from my room at Peaks of Otter Lodge

Tomorrow’s ride to Ground Hog Mountain is another difficult one …. It’s 89-miles with about 8000 feet of climbing.

-ME

Day 5 June 29: Bedford to Ground Hog Mountain, VA

 
Daily Stats:
Mileage: 89 miles
On-Bike Time: 7:00
Average Speed: 12.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 7955 ft.

Wow …. what a difference a day makes! I felt good and strong throughout today’s difficult 89-mile ride. We rode most of the day in overcast skies which we were all exceedingly grateful for as it kept the heat at bay. We did get a little rain towards the end of the ride but it wasn’t bad and it sure beat being hot. The threat of rain did keep me from taking out my camera though so I did not snap many pictures today. This is too bad, because today was really a great scenery day.

We descended from the sparsely populated mountains into a more settled valley featuring rolling hay pastures and scattered houses. We also passed through Roanoke, VA, our first major city since beginning the tour.

9 Near Roanoke, VA

Unfortunately, there was a bit more traffic on the road today, this being a Sunday and us passing through a major population center. It wasn’t too bad though ….. most of the drivers are courteous and give us plenty of room to ride.
Even though I had a great day on the bike, it was fairly difficult and there were a couple of nasty climbs towards the finish that gave Bill and I a severe case of hurt before finally reaching our hotel for the night.
Life is good.
On a sad note, my cycling buddy Jim has been having difficulties with his back and has decided to end his ride early. His wife, Pat, will be picking him up and driving him back to their house in Asheville, NC. His good humor will be missed.
Tomorrow’s 67-mile ride with 5800 feet of climb will take us to Doughton Park, NC

-ME

Day 6 June 30: Ground Hog Mountain, VA to Doughton Park, NC

 
Daily Stats:
Mileage: 56 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:16
Average Speed: 13.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 3966 ft.

Today we had a 66-mile ride to the Bluffs Lodge in Doughton Park, NC. As was my expectation, my legs were a bit fatigued after yesterday’s difficult ride and climbing the hills was once again a struggle.
It was another great day on the Parkway though …. cool weather, great companions, spectacular scenery, good roads (mostly) and limited traffic make for a terrific bike ride.


Along the way, we stopped at an old homestead cabin with a sign proclaiming that it was once inhabited by a mid-wife who had assisted in 1000 births and also had 24 children of her own (none lived past infancy). I can’t even imagine such a life.

10 Homestead Cabin




We stopped for lunch at a diner near our hotel. I ordered Pulled Pork but the preparation was a bit odd for this California boy. The pork was topped with American Cheese and piled between 2 cornbread pancakes. …. It was OK, but not quite what I had in mind. For dinner tonight we went back to the same diner, (not that there’s much choice out here), and I had “made-to-order” panned fried chicken (it takes ½ hour to prepare) with mashed potatoes and gravy and it was very tasty.

11 View from my Bluff’s Lodge hotel room porch

Tomorrow’s ride is about 56 hilly miles that will have us heading to Blowing Rock where we will have our first, and only, rest day of the trip.

-ME

Day 7 July 1: Doughton Park to Blowing Rock, NC

 
Daily Stats:
Mileage: 54 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:07
Average Speed: 13.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 4897 ft.

It was just another day in paradise. Conditions were once again conducive for a marvelous ride through the rolling countryside of North Carolina.



The legs felt good today so I had an easier time with the continual climbing that we’ve all come so familiar with on the Parkway.
The Blue Ridge Parkway was closed due to construction towards the end of our ride so we had to exit off the Parkway and use surface streets for the last 10-miles to our destination, The Chetola Inn Resort in Blowing Rock. The detour wasn’t a lot of fun as it was heavily trafficked but we all got through it in fine shape.
The Chetola Inn is an upscale resort and it seems like a fine place to stay for our day off.

12 Chetola Inn Resort in Blowing Rock

We walked a mile to downtown Blowing Rock for dinner tonight. Blowing Rock is a tourist town and is very pleasant to wander through ….. I’ll probably spend more time there tomorrow.

-ME

Day 8 July 2: Rest Day – Blowing Rock

 
Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 336 miles
On-Bike Time: 27:00
Average Speed: 12.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 30,537 ft.

I had done laundry yesterday so the only things I had to do today was buy some snacks and lunch meat for the next 3 days and clean/lube the chain on the bike. That accomplished I did absolutely nothing else today other than eat, chat with my companions, wander through town and take a nap. …. I thoroughly enjoyed our day off.

13 Chetola Inn


14 Blowing Rock

Tomorrow’s 45-mile ride will take us to Little Switzerland. It’s not a long ride but there’s quite a bit of climbing.

-ME

Day 9 July 3: Blowing Rock to Little Switzerland

 
I’ve caught a cold so I spent much of the day drugged out on Nyquil while dozing in the van.

15 Elizabeth on the Viaduct


16 View from my balcony at the Little Switzerland Lodge

-ME

Day 10 July 4: Little Switzerland to Mt. Pisgah

 
I tried to ride today but had only gone 8-miles before I had to call it quits. I found I couldn’t get enough breath to make it up the hills.
Colds suck!


17 Our Group at the top of Mount Mitchell

-ME

Day 11 July 5: Mt. Pisgah to Cherokee

 
I was feeling much better today and actually managed a 12-mile downhill and then an 8-mile climb. Unfortunately, we ran into rain and fog during the climb so, for safety and comforts sake, we decided to stop the ride and van into Asheville, NC to complete our journey.


18 I got a kick out of these warning signs



Despite having caught a cold, it was a fabulous trip and I’m very happy to have been a part of it. Great company, spectacular scenery, well maintained roads and reasonable drivers to share the road with …. What more could a bicyclist want?
I’ll spend and extra day in Asheville, NC before flying back home on Monday, July 7^th. (I’ll probably take a tour of the Biltmore Estate on Sunday)

-ME

Final Stats:

 
Mileage: 364 miles
On-Bike Time: 29:33
Average Speed: 12.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 34,283ft.

Day 1 May 10: El Segundo, CA

Hi All, 

You are receiving this email because at some time in the past you expressed an interest in hearing about my bicycle adventures. If you find yourself thinking “Oh no ….. it’s him again”, please let me know and I will take you off the email list.

This year’s tour will have me bicycling approximately 1400-miles from Redondo Beach (L.A.), CA through the Southern California Desert and the states of Arizona, New Mexico, Texas and Oklahoma before finishing in Dodge City, KS. at the end of May. The Organizer for this tour is CrossRoads ( www.crossroadscycling.com ). Today was Orientation day where we met the tour leaders and fellow ride participants. There are 36 riders starting the tour with most of them traveling all the way across the country to Boston, MA. The youngest rider is 27 and the oldest is 72. The average age is 56. The ratio of men to women is 2 to 1 (Unfortunately, this ratio is typical on these long distance rides).

Joining me, (only as far as Albuquerque, NM though), are Rick Myerburg (rode with me on the 2004 Cross Country Challenge, 2005 Mississippi River Ride and 2007 Eastern Europe) and Peter Crowell (rode with me in Sebring Florida last December) Bill Weidenfeller, who has ridden with me on all my long distance rides since my first cross-country in 2004, will be joining the tour in Flagstaff, AZ and will ride with me all the way to Dodge City, KS.

Tomorrow we will dip our bike tires in the Pacific Ocean and then make our way approximately 77-miles to Riverside, CA.

I will attempt to update you on my progress through daily journal email updates.

-Dan Crandall

Day 2 May 11: Redondo Beach to Riverside

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 79 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:40
Average Speed: 13.9 mph
Elevation Climb: 2500 ft.
 

We were riding two abreast escorted by the CrossRoads Vans as we caravanned the 1^st 5-miles to the Pacific Ocean.

After the ceremonial tire dipping and group picture, we proceeded to wind our way via surface streets to our destination city of Riverside. I’m really glad we were doing this ride on a Sunday as I think the traffic would have been horrendous on a weekday. As it was, it was reasonably pleasant riding through the industrial / residential areas though I think I set a personal record for the number of stoplights encountered in a single day. There must have been at least 100 of them …. I think they finally ran out of money for lights because we were inundated with 4-way Stop Signs towards the end of our ride.

The weather god was kind to us today. It was cool and overcast for the first 60-miles and even after the overcast cleared, it never did get hot. That may change tomorrow as we travel the 85-miles through Palm Springs to Indio.

I felt good today …. It was a good start to the journey.

-ME

Day 3 May 12: Riverside to Indio

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 86 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:10
Average Speed: 16.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 2811 ft.

I’ve done a lot of bike rides over the last few years and I’ve had many different riding adventures but today was a unique experience for me. It was cool and overcast when we started our 86-mile ride this morning but I figured it would warm-up pretty fast ….. I mean we are heading for the Mojave Desert ….. so I didn’t bother to bring a jacket. The first 32-miles featured a 3-mile and a 5.4-mile climb ….. they weren’t tremendously steep so nothing unusual there. We had our first SAG (rest) stop at mile 35 in the metropolis of Beaumont and I was feeling very cold …… it was 51 degrees! The wind was also blowing fairly hard …. fortunately it was a tailwind. Shortly after leaving the SAG stop we had the pleasure of riding on Interstate 10 for a couple of miles. The tailwind was increasing and we were going slightly downhill so I was able to increase my speed up to 30-miles per hour on the freeway ….. I was having fun. Upon exiting the freeway we traveled upon a wide road with no traffic and by now we had a 30-40 mile tailwind. What an experience! ….. Rick and I were able to sustain speeds of over 30-miles an hour while chatting side-by-side without breaking a sweat (and fortunately the sun also made an appearance to warm us up). Evidently, it’s very common for the winds to blow hard through this section of California as there is a major Windmill farm located along our route.

The strong tailwinds continued to push us the last 50-miles into our hotel in Indio. Wow! …. Days like today are why I ride a bike!

Side note: Though the wind was mostly at our backs, there were some sections of the route where the wind was swirling …… and gusts would hit you from any direction. Consequentially, we had a number of people lose control of their bikes and fall ….. thankfully, nothing serious though.

Tomorrow we cross 100-miles through the Mojave Desert to Blythe. ….. I’m really not looking forward to the desert days ….. perhaps I should make a sacrifice to the wind and sun god.

-ME

Day 4 May 13: Indio to Blythe

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 101 miles
On-Bike Time: 6:32
Average Speed: 15.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 3254 ft.

At last night’s “Route Rap”, Tracy, (tour company owner and our team leader), spent a great deal of time talking about desert safety ….. how to prevent, identify and treat heat related ailments. The mantra of “Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate” filled our ears. After she was done most of us riders were ready to call it a day as the image of our bleached bones lying beside a dry water hole filled our heads.

In actuality, the day turned out to be pretty mild by desert standards ….. temperatures only reached into the mid-80′s. It was not an easy ride though. We started the day with an 11-mile climb. Not very steep mind you (4-6% grade) but it was still a 1½ hour climb. The wind was also a factor today ….. and not always in a good way. We were traveling mostly due East and the wind direction was NNW at 15-25mph. There were times when Rick and I were able to cruise at 20mph and other times when we were almost blown over by the strength of the crosswind. At one point we were hit by a wall of blown sand so dense we found it hard to see. (There’s nothing quite like the taste of grit in your mouth after passing through a sand storm) Oh yeah, we also were on Interstate 10 for almost the entire ride so we also had to try and avoid the debris on the shoulder of the road. It’s amazing the amount of stuff that accumulates at the side of an Interstate Highway. Rick blew a hole in his rear tire after running over a wrench.

We didn’t push it; we took our time and were able to persevere for the entire 101-mile ride through the Mojave Desert and into Blythe.

Tomorrow’s 115-mile ride has us continuing our ride through the desert to Wickenburg, AZ. I hope the temperature continues to be mild and the winds turn more favorable.

-ME

Day 5 May 14: Blythe, CA to Wenden, AZ

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 67 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:51
Average Speed: 13.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 2870 ft.

I only rode for the first 67 of the 115 miles from Blythe to Wickenburg, AZ. Nothing was wrong and I felt physically fine but riding in the desert really wears on me. You can stare at the road before you and it goes on for miles before finally disappearing in a seemingly endless horizon.



We were fighting a headwind and the road surface wasn’t all that great. At about the 50-mile mark, Rick turned to me and asked “Are you having fun?” I had to say “No” and we decided to catch a van ride, at the next SAG stop, to our hotel in Wickenburg.

Tomorrow’s 59-mile ride has us traveling from Wickenburg to Prescott. I expect it will be a very tough climbing day.

-ME

Day 6 May 15: Wickenburg to Prescott

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 60 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:38
Average Speed: 10.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 5835 ft.

It was the best of days; it was the worst of days.

I knew today was going to be a climbing day but there are pleasant climbs and excruciating climbs. Today we had a double portion of both.

Examples of excruciating climbs include:

• Exceedingly steep grades
• hot and/or humid
• Headwinds
• False Flats

The weather was pleasant today and the grades were 6% or less.

We had strong headwinds and False Flats. False Flats are when the road looks like it’s totally flat but it is really going uphill. (It just looks flat because all the surrounding terrain is on the same slope so there’s no point of reference.) It is really demoralizing to struggle to ride 7-9mph when your brain is telling you that you should be doing at least 15mph. Add a strong headwind to the equation and you have the formula for a very unpleasant riding experience.

Today we had several miles of False Flats before we started climbing 7-miles up the mountain to Yarnell Pass. Climbing the mountain was actually a pleasure because you knew you were climbing a real mountain slope and the mountain blocked the most of the headwinds.


Upon leaving Yarnell Pass we again experienced many miles of False Flats and fierce headwinds before climbing our second set of mountains.


I really enjoyed this part of the ride ….. we actually had some downhill as a reward for all the uphill. The 3-mile descent into Prescott was especially nice.

This evening, Rick and I met up with Doug McMillan (a fellow rider from the 2004 Cross Country Challenge) who makes his home here in Prescott. Doug was kind enough to show us around Prescott and join us for dinner at an historic saloon in downtown Prescott. (Corn Chowder, Steak Filet, Baked Potato, veggies and apple pie ala mode for me)

Tomorrow’s short 43-mile, (more hills though), ride will take us to the town of Cottonwood.

-ME

Day 7 May 16: Prescott to Cottonwood

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 44 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:25
Average Speed: 12.9 mph
Elevation Climb: 2773 ft.

Since this was a short mileage day, we didn’t leave the hotel until after 9:00am. The first 14-miles were pretty easy miles but then we encountered several more miles of the evil False Flats as we approached Mingus Mountain. As was the case yesterday, we battled severe headwinds before reaching the relative shelter of the mountain. I never thought I’d be thankful to climb mountains but the headwinds have been just brutal the last couple of days.

Mingus Mountain was actually a very pleasant ride through to the summit which peaks out at a little over 7000 feet.

From there we descended approximately 3500 feet over 17-miles before reaching our hotel in Cottonwood. I just LOVE downhill’s! (though I wish the road had been in better repair)

We did stop on the way down to have lunch at The Haunted Hamburger restaurant in the mountain community of Jerome City where we were treated to spectacular views of the valley and Cottonwood 1500 feet below.


It was a good day on the bike ….. life is good.

Tomorrow’s ride to Flagstaff is another short one at only 46-miles. There is over 5000 feet of climbing involved so it will not be an easy day of riding. I’m looking forward to this ride because I’ve driven through this area and the scenery is spectacular.

-ME

Day 8 May 17: Cottonwood to Flagstaff

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 47 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:03
Average Speed: 11.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 4897 ft.

I’ve wanted to ride a bike from Sedona to Flagstaff via Oak Creek Canyon since experiencing it in a car in 2003. I’m delighted to say it met all my expectations. To start with we couldn’t have asked for better weather conditions …. comfortable temperatures and very little wind (Yea!). We warmed up with 19-miles of rolling uphill’s before stopping for coffee and cinnamon rolls in Sedona. We were rewarded with spectacular views of Red Rock Country as we sipped our coffee on the café balcony.

It wasn’t long before the road once again beckoned us to continue our journey to Flagstaff. We slowly wound our way 15-miles up Oak Creek Canyon which culminated in a series of switch backs up the canyon wall.

The climbing, while certainly strenuous, wasn’t really difficult and I felt very good while riding today. The only negative was the lack of shoulders on the narrow road …. luckily the road also curves a lot and traffic is not able to move at any great speed.


The last 12-miles into Flagstaff featured more rolling uphill’s.

This was my favorite day on the trip so far.

Tomorrow is a rest day here in Flagstaff and I’m not yet sure what I’m going to do. (I do know that my bicycle is NOT leaving the hotel room.) Bill Weidenfeller will be arriving to join the tour tomorrow and will ride with us into Dodge City, KS.

-ME

Day 9 May 18: Rest Day – Flagstaff

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 484 miles
On-Bike Time: 35:19
Average Speed: 13.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 24,940 ft.

I had cleaned my bike and done laundry yesterday so I had absolutely nothing to do today …… so that’s what I did. Oh, I did wander through downtown Flagstaff where we ate lunch but mostly I just lazed around and chatted with fellow riders.

Tomorrow’s 96-mile will take us to Holbrook. It’s a long ride but there doesn’t appear to be any major climbing and we actually will lose a couple of thousand feet in altitude.

-ME

Day 10 May 19: Flagstaff to Holbrook

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 95 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:14
Average Speed: 18.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 1238 ft.

Almost perfect riding conditions made today’s 95-mile ride one of the quickest long mileage rides I have ever done. We rode on Interstate 40 through the high desert for almost the whole ride. The pavement was rough in patches and we had to dodge tire debris (Bill had a flat due to having a radial tire wire penetrate through the sidewall of his tire.) but we were going slightly downhill and we had the all-important tailwind helping us along so we were able to make good time.

We did exit I-40 at about the 60-mile mark to travel through Winslow, AZ. on old Route 66.
Winslow is a town that prospered in the 1950′s and 60′s when Route 66 was THE highway across America but was left in time when it was bypassed by Interstate 40. Its claim to fame now is for being mentioned in an old Eagles song. I actually had the Eagles song blaring on my bike speaker while traveling through town. (Sorry about the “Standin on the Corner” picture, but it HAD to be taken ….. town ordinance I believe)


We didn’t stay in Winslow long as it was beginning to get warm and we didn’t want to be still riding when the afternoon temperatures reached the projected highs into the 90′s.

Our home for the night is Holbrook which, like Winslow, is another town that is stuck in the 1950′s after being bypassed by I-40.

I suspect tomorrow’s 86-mile ride to Gallup, NM will be very similar to today’s. Once again we will be traveling on I-40 most of the way. There’s a few more uphill’s and tailwinds are projected.

-ME

Day 11 May 20: Holbrook, AZ to Gallup, NM

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 88 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:25
Average Speed: 16.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 2682 ft.

It was another day on Interstate 40 and Peggy, from Arkansas, decided to slum it by joining Bill, Rick and I on our 88-mile ride to Gallup, NM. The scenery was better today as the flat desert sage has replaced by tall rock formations ….. it makes for a much more interesting ride.


We even managed to get off of I-40 for a 9-mile stretch on little traveled Route 66. It was a major relief to get off the highway even if just for a little while. It’s nice to be able to ride side by side and chat with one another as the miles drift by.

I was on cruise control for most of today’s ride and I felt very good upon reaching our hotel.

We had a thunder storm pass through while we were having lunch near our hotel. I was sure glad that I wasn’t one of the later arriving riders that got caught in it.

Tomorrow’s 67-mile ride will take us to Grants, NM

-ME

Day 12 May 21: Gallup to Grants

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 68 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:52
Average Speed: 15.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 1711 ft.

I was expecting an easy leisurely 68-mile ride to Grants, NM today and my expectations were met …… for awhile. We spent the first 20-miles of our ride on Route 66. The terrain was gently rolling, the temperature was cool and we had a quartering tailwind ….. life was good. Then Route 66 ended and we were forced to return to Interstate 40. It was 9-miles of very bad shoulders …. debris, gravel, potholes, uneven pavement ….. we were treated to it all. I just put my head down and rode as fast as possible to our exit which was our SAG stop at the Continental Divide.


After taking some pictures and loading up on snacks and water, Bill, Rick and I took to the road. …… we were now on Route 66 once again. We still had a quartering wind and there was almost no traffic so we were able to hit a speed of over 20mph while riding 3 abreast and conversing. ……. Ah, bicycling nirvana! We were laughing and calculating how quickly we would make it to the hotel at the pace we were going.

But ….. the bicycle god is a fickle god. 20-miles from our hotel, our leisurely ride quickly turned into an agonizing ordeal as the winds shifted and picked up in speed. We were now battling 25-30mph crosswinds with gusts up to 50mph ….. sand was stinging our cheeks and tumbleweed was slamming into our bikes. We were tired and battered by the time we got to the hotel. It felt good to clean-up and eat. ….. what a day!

Tomorrow’s 75-mile ride will take us into Albuquerque. Strong winds are once again projected …… I hope it’s going in our direction.

-ME

Day 13 May 22: Grants to Albuquerque

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 53 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:04
Average Speed: 17.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 1655 ft.

You know that feeling you get when you get on your bike to start a ride and there’s a dark threatening sky, temperatures in the high 30′s coupled with strong crosswinds and then, 2 miles down the road, it begins to sleet on you? You don’t? Well …… neither did I until today. There was nothing between me and the angry Weather God but stretchy shorts, a short sleeve bicycle jersey and a light rain jacket. I didn’t bring any cold weather gear so Mother Nature steamrolled through me and won in a knockout. My face, hands and legs were so numb I couldn’t feel them. Fortunately I, along with many others, soon found refuge at a gas station/convenience store. Some hardy individuals elected to keep on riding but, since I had no way of judging how long the adverse weather conditions would last, I elected to have the van take me to the first SAG stop. (22-miles away) Upon reaching the SAG stop conditions had improved significantly ….. the temperature was now a balmy 51 degrees and the sky seemed to be clearing. Bill and I elected to continue the ride into Albuquerque. As it turns out the ride was very enjoyable despite us being on Interstate 40 almost the whole way. This section of I-40 had been recently re-paved and was in great condition, we also had a tailwind and we were going downhill for significant stretches.


Despite the shaky beginning, it was a good day to be on the bike.

My friends Rick Myerburg and Peter Crowell will be leaving the tour here in Albuquerque and will be flying home tomorrow …. Too bad …. I will miss their steady presence and good humor.

Tomorrow’s ride has us riding 66-miles up to Santa Fe. It’s another climbing day as Santa Fe is over 7000 feet above sea level.

-ME

Day 14 May 23: Albuquerque to Santa Fe

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 67 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:44
Average Speed: 14.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 4617 ft.

Weather conditions continue to make for some interesting riding. Having learned a lesson from yesterday, I donned spandex leggings and wool socks along with my normal bicycle apparel. ….. it wasn’t enough. The day started fine enough ….. gray sky and cool, but I was comfortable riding.

While we were on a long climb, conditions changed for the worse. The sky darkened and a light rain began to fall. Normally riding uphill tends to keep you warm as you generate a lot of heat as you expend energy climbing. But being wet really saps the warmth out of you and I soon had to seek shelter from the cold. Bill and I stopped at a gas station/convenience store where a large number of fellow riders were also holed up. I bought some hot chocolate and sipped it as we waited for the rain to let-up. Some of the riders mentioned that they actually saw snowflakes as they were riding …. I believe them.

After about an hour the rain let-up and we were able to continue our ride. Unfortunately, we were still very wet and we had a long descent in front of us. I got so cold my teeth were chattering. Bill thought he had a bike problem. His front wheel was shaking badly; broken spoke? Loose headset? Nah …. It was Bill …. he was shivering so violently it affected his bike. Soon after, the rain totally stopped, it began to warm-up a bit and we were actually able to enjoy the ride and the scenery.

The sun made an appearance when we stopped at our SAG stop at mile 33.
We were riding on the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway from Albuquerque to Santa Fe and under better conditions; this would have ranked up there with one of my best rides ever. The roads were in good shape, there wasn’t a tremendous amount of traffic and it was very scenic as you pass through juniper, pine, and spruce-fir forests.
We were blessed with very long descent into the old mining town of Madrid which has transformed itself to be an arts and craft center.

Bill and I stopped long enough to say hello to fellow riders who were stopping to have lunch at The Mine Shaft Tavern.

We continued to enjoy the ride until, about 8-miles from our hotel; the skies unloaded with a deluge of cold rain. It was a very miserable 8-miles and I was very glad to get in, have a hot shower and get something hot to eat.

Tomorrow is a rest day in Santa Fe. According to the weather report, the sun will be shining. I hope so, old Santa Fe is definitely worth wandering around in.

-ME

Day 15 May 24: Rest Day – Santa Fe

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 855 miles
On-Bike Time: 57:38
Average Speed: 14.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 36,843 ft.

I have been to Santa Fe before and it’s one of my favorite towns and I’m glad we had a rest day here. The old town is vibrant and is very walkable. There are many well maintained historic buildings, Art Galleries, Street Vendors (not selling the same old junk you see at local street fairs but original works) and restaurants.

I took the time to visit the Georgia O’Keeffe museum this morning. I like her use of color but I’m not a big fan of abstract paintings ….. I preferred some of her more realistic works but the exhibit was definitely worth seeing. The weather was reasonably nice today; partly cloudy skies with temperatures reaching the mid-60′s. Bill and I had lunch at “The Ore House” where we sat on the second floor balcony overlooking the Town Plaza.

It was a very pleasant and relaxing day.


Tomorrow’s 72-mile day will take us to Las Vegas, NM. The weather forecast is calling for clear skies and warmer temperatures. …. Yea!

-ME

Day 16 May 25: Santa Fe to Las Vegas

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 75 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:06
Average Speed: 14.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 4103 ft.

It was a glorious day for the 75-mile ride to Las Vegas. The day was cool to start but it warmed up nicely as the day progressed, we had a tailwind and, most importantly, the sun was shining. The roads we traversed, (mainly the Santa Fe Trail – Route 66), had little traffic and were generally in good condition. The scenery was very nice and we took the time to visit Peco’s National Monument Park.

The last 25-miles of the ride kept us grunting as it featured steep rolling hills.

It was a wonderful day on the bike.

Sorry for the brevity of this journal entry but I need to go to bed early because tomorrow’s ride is a hilly 109-miles (Ugh) through the high desert and will take us to Tucumcari, NM.

-ME

Day 17 May 26: Las Vegas to Tucumcari

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 110 miles
On-Bike Time: 6:50
Average Speed: 16.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 3629 ft.

It’s a long way to Tucumcari.

110 miles to be exact. As is typical of most of my long rides, some of the riding is great, some just OK, and some just plain ugly.

The weather today was fairly nice; cool in the morning and a tad on the toasty side as the afternoon progressed. The wind was divided in equal parts sometimes helping and sometimes hindering. (It was more of a hindrance as the day wore on)

This route, (R-104), had absolutely no services available for the whole 110-miles. The SAG stops were to be our only Oasis for food and water.

An “OK” Section

We started our ride rolling through the gentle hills and grasslands of the high desert. No trees, no bushes …. Just grass for as far as the eye could see.

The “Great” Section

The Grasslands eventually gave way to small bushes and stubby trees which gradually increased in size as the miles passed.

And then I saw it …. A posted sign by the road …. One that always brings a tear to my eye and a big smile to my lips. It had a symbol of a truck on a downslope and it read “3-miles, 9%” (A 3-mile downhill at a 9% Grade). We turned a corner and there it was in all its glory. …. A windy(sp?) mountain road leading down to the valley far below ….. and it was good!


Another “OK” Section

After the exhilaration of the downhill, we found ourselves once again riding through rolling scrub land with pockets of rocky outcrops.

At about the 68-mile mark, we encountered a major climb (The Wall) that featured a grade of 13% in some parts. Fortunately, it was less than a mile in length and I was able to climb it without much difficulty.

The “Ugly” Section

After our last SAG stop, at about the 77-mile mark, the wind picked up and was working against us, it was getting hot and there were more hills to climb (some very steep) before reaching Tucumcari. At one point, you could literally see the road unwind 20-miles ahead of you. ….. it’s a discouraging sight when you are tired. Just before Tucumcari, a big dog started to chase me just as I was approaching a steep hill. I used the last water in my water bottle squirting the dog to fend it off.

I was very glad to reach the hotel today.

Tomorrow’s 98-mile (groan) ride will take us out of New Mexico and into Dalhart, TX.

-ME

Day 18 May 27: Tucumcari, NM to Dalhart, TX

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 32 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:20
Average Speed: 13.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 693 ft.

I was prepared for a tough day …… it was 98-miles with nothing to see but rolling hills of sage while battling a very strong headwind (20-30mph) the whole way. Physically, I was feeling well though it’s frustrating to work so damn hard and barely break 12mph.


After arriving at our first SAG stop, one of the tour leaders asked if I was feeling OK. Evidently, some riders were complaining of diarrhea and nausea. ….. food poisoning was suspected. I said “Yeah, I feel fine’ ….. and I did. Five minutes later I began to feel cramps in my stomach and I decided not to continue to ride so Bill rode on without me. An hour later, the nausea hit me and projectile vomiting commenced. When you’re on a ride such as this, the Vans need to be there to support the riders on the road, so if you elect to ride in the van you must wait until all the riders have gone through the SAG stop before moving on. Eventually, I and several other ill cyclists were transported to the 2^nd SAG stop. By this time Bill had also succumbed and was waiting to be picked-up along the road. At the second SAG stop I proceeded to christen the grounds with yet more vomiting. Upon leaving the second SAG with a van full of fellow ill cyclists and finally headed to our hotel in Dalhart, TX, I succumbed to yet another bout of nausea …… luckily, there was a empty container handy in the van. Upon arriving at the hotel, Bill and I were persuaded to go to the Coon Memorial Hospital here in town where we were hooked up to an IV to receive 2 liters of Saline solution. We were also given Antibiotics and Anti-nausea medicine. We had Salmonella poisoning ….. we’re guessing it originated at a Pizza Hut in Tucumcari where we had dinner yesterday. I personally suspect it was the Chicken Alfredo that did us in. I don’t think I’ve ever had food poisoning before …… it’s not a pleasant experience.

“Pizza Hut – Making it Great”

-ME

Day 19 May 28: Dalhart, TX to Guymon, OK

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.

I didn’t sleep at all last night, though I feel much better this morning. I’m actually able to take in food and drink now. I think there are about 12 of us that had various degrees of food poisoning ….. 8 went to the hospital. Neither Bill nor I are riding the 72-miles to Guymon, OK today. The tour company has made arrangements for we recovering riders to remain all day at our hotel in Dalhart, TX. We will be transported to Guymon, OK later on this afternoon.

Tomorrow’s ride is a short 39-mile hop to Liberal, KS. I’m guessing I’ll be fine to ride this leg.

-ME

Day 20 May 29: Guymon, OK to Liberal, KS

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 40 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:50
Average Speed: 21.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 541 ft.

All the tour riders were dressed and ready to go today …. It’s the first time we’ve had everybody healthy enough to ride in quite a long time. The food poisoning that spread through our group like wildfire a couple of days ago has now subsided and most of us are feeling much, much better.

On every bicycle tour I’ve been on the most popular TV program for the participants is “The Weather Channel”. The state of the weather is the primary determinant on whether it’s going to be a good or bad day on the bike. Today’s short flat ride to Liberal, KS has got to go down as the easiest 40 mile ride I have ever done. We had blue skies, comfortable temperatures, good pavement and a raging 30mph tailwind. WOW! …… We were just cruising and not working very hard. What a great recovery day after being ill.

Along the way, we stopped at the small town of Hooker, OK (Home of American Legion Baseball’s Hooker Horny Toad’s), where some riders bought T-Shirts boasting slogans such as “Not your typical Hooker” and “I could’ve been a prince, but it’s more fun being a Horny Toad.”

It wasn’t long after that we entered the State of Kansas and from there, it was just a few miles into Liberal, our destination for tonight. Liberal is home to the “Land of OZ” Museum and The Mid-America Air Museum. ….. I may take in the Air Museum this afternoon. …. Or maybe I’ll take a nap.




Tomorrow’s 83-mile ride will take us to Dodge City, KS. It’s my final ride for this tour and I will miss my new friends as they continue their journey to Boston, MA.

-ME

Day 21 May 30: Liberal to Dodge City

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 15 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:00
Average Speed: 13.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 300 ft.

This tour has taken many unexpected turns and today was no exception. It was supposed to be an 83-mile ride into Dodge City, KS. The day started like oh so many other days on this trip …… headwinds! Man, are we tired of headwinds! A few miles into the ride I began to hear a strange grinding noise coming from the pedal crank …… nothing good ever comes from hearing this type of sound. Sure enough, it turns out my bottom bracket bearings are totally shot causing the whole crank assembly to wiggle back and forth. It was probably caused by me pedaling too hard and too fast (That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.) I was forced to abandon the tour due to mechanical failure ….. bummer! (but I did miss another grueling day of headwinds)
As Bill rode on I can imagine him saying to himself; “Now that the anchor is gone, I can finally pick up some speed”
Our only SAG Stop for today was located at “The Dalton Gang Hideout” in Meade, KS (see pictures)


This evening, some of us went to the Variety Show in downtown Dodge City. It was corny but entertaining.


Well that’s it for this edition of my bicycle journal ……. Stay tuned for next month’s Virginia/North Carolina Blue Ridge Parkway adventure.

-ME

Final Stats:

Mileage: 1,127 miles
On-Bike Time: 74:44
Average Speed: 15 mph
Elevation Climb: 46,109 ft.

Day -4 June 9: On my way

Hi all,

Well, it’s an inauspicious start to my Eastern Europe bike trip. It’s almost 4:00pm and I’m currently on an airplane sitting on the runway in San Jose on a flight to New York that was supposed to depart at 1:15pm. Evidently there’s some severe thunder storm activity on the east coast and all flights into New York have been delayed by at least 3-hours.  Ah well, at least it’s summer and we’re able to keep both doors of the airplane open so we can get fresh air. Luckily, my next flight to St. Petersburg via London isn’t due to depart New York until 8:30pm tomorrow and, hopefully, I have a hotel room waiting for me. Some people on this flight face the prospect of arriving in New York after 1:00am having missed their flight connections. Flying is the pits!

-Dan

Day -3 June 10: Flight from New York to St. Petersburg

I didn’t really get that much sleep last night. After getting to bed around 3:30am I woke up at 8:00 and was unable to get back to sleep. Oh well, not much to do today other than wait around for my 8:30pm flight to London. I arrived at the airport around 12:30, checked my bags, passed through security and then settled in for the long wait. My friend, Bill Weidenfeller, arrived off his Florida Flight around 6:00pm. We were also supposed to be joined by Rick and Kathie Myerburg but their flight out of Pittsburgh was delayed and they had not shown up at the Gate by the time I boarded. We ourselves were delayed for an hour at the gate and an additional half hour on the Tarmac so there’s a good chance we won’t be making our connection from London to St. Petersburg.

I’m flying to London today via British Airlines. Everything was going as per normal …… cramped seats, no leg room, etc. and they were handing out what I thought was the usual gourmet treats of a bag of pretzels and a soft drink. I popped one of the Pretzel’s into my mouth and almost spit it out. That had to be the worst tasting pretzel I have ever had the misfortune to eat. I read the package …… hmm …. OK, big bold print “Pretzel Nuggets” …… wait ….. there’s some small print underneath ….. BLOODY HELL! ….. The Brits have laced their pretzels with Worcester Sauce flavoring ….. That’s just not right!

Later:

Yep! … we missed our connecting flight and are now flying from London to Helsinki, Finland and from there to St. Petersburg. And, of course, our flight from London to Helsinki was delayed for an hour but, that’s OK, because the flight to St. Petersburg was also an hour late making me 0 for 4 in on-time airline travel. Bill and I ended up landing in St. Petersburg about 11:30pm ….. Unfortunately, one of my bags didn’t (duffle bag with all my bicycle things). The first thing they had me do is fill in a customs form. There wasn’t anything on the form that has to do with losing a bag but that’s what they had me do. Then I took the completed form to someone who looked official and he said I needed to make a duplicate copy. So, I filled in another customs form and gave both copies to the official. After stamping them in multiple locations he gave me a copy and directed me to a door that was appropriately named “Missing Luggage”. I handed the stamped copy to the agent there. She had me fill out yet another duplicate customs form. (I’ve got this routine nailed by now) Then, finally, I get to fill in a “Lost Luggage” form. Hopefully, my bag will arrive sometime today.

It’s now after midnight, (You’d never know it as it’s still light out), I’m exhausted, and it’s time to get to the hotel. We arranged with the official “Taxi Manager” to get a cab and are taken, at an exceedingly swift pace, (we figured our driver was reaching upwards of 80mph on the city streets), to our hotel.

This hotel has no internet access so I suspect I’ll be sending several days worth of email as soon as I can get on-line once again.

For additional information and a more informed overview of the places we are visiting you can visit:

Bill Weidenfeller’s website at: www.bikingwithbill.org
or
Elizabeth Renner’s website at: www.bikelizabeth.blogspot.com

-ME

Day -2 June 11: St. Petersburg, Russia

Another poor sleep last night. St. Petersburg is 11-hours ahead of REAL (West Coast) time so I’m really feeling the jet lag. It also doesn’t help that it starts getting light over here at 4:00am. I had breakfast in the hotel and then met up with Bill and Nancy and we took a stroll to an impressing looking blue & white cathedral located not far from the hotel. While it looks impressive from afar, upon closer inspection it’s obvious that the Cathedral has not been well maintained.

So far, I’m not feeling overly impressed with the city. It has a lot of poorly maintained multi-story rectangular buildings that all look the same, (you’ve got to love that Soviet architecture), and it’s really hard to get a smile from anyone you meet. I really don’t think they like westerners here. We had a fine lunch, (baked salmon), at a local dining establishment that obviously caters to westerners (I felt like I was back in the 70′s though …. They had a western theme with a disco ball rotating from the ceiling)

We’re due to meet with our tour guides this afternoon so, hopefully, they’ve arranged to show us the good side of the city over the next couple of days.

Rick and Kathie have still not made an appearance so I’m guessing that they will be on the afternoon flight from London.

Later:

Rick and Kathie have finally late this afternoon and we met with most of the other members of the group I will be spending the better part of the next 2 months traveling with …… seems like a great group and I think we’re going to have a good time together. There are 16 people that are going to do the complete route and another 4 that are going as far as Warsaw, Poland. Our group is comprised of 7 woman and 13 men.

It’s now 11:00pm and the front desk has just called to inform me that my lost luggage has arrived ….. Yeah!

-ME

Day -1 June 12: St. Petersburg, Russia

I woke up today about 5:00am and, since breakfast wasn’t being served until 7:30am, I took a stroll alongside the river Neva which is just across the street from our hotel.

This hotel serves a pretty good breakfast buffet. Besides the customary European cold cuts, cereals and breakfast rolls, choices included: Fried and hard boiled eggs, porridge, potatoes, fruit, yogurt, toast, sausage and a variety of cakes and pastries. OK, I can get used to breakfasts like this.

After breakfast, we all met in the hotel lobby to start a 3-hour bus tour designed to show us the main sites of the downtown area of St. Petersburg. I’m not much for bus tours and this one was no exception but I’ve got to admit it did give me a good overview of the city which, as it turns out, is pretty spectacular.

Some facts: The city was planned and built by Czar Peter the Great on swampland. A series of canals were built to help drain the water from the land and provide a means for water transportation of goods and people much like the canals of Venice. There are 500 palaces, (and there’s got to be nearly as many large churches), located in this city of approximately 4.5 million people.

After our tour, we were free to wander where ever we wanted. Most of us elected to take a hydra-foil to the island of Petros on the river Neva to take in the splendor of the summer palace of Kathryn the Great. Wow! …. Huge grounds with lots of water fountains adorned with gold plated statues. The opulence of this place is amazing. It’s no wonder there was unrest among the working class …… the difference in wealth between the classes must have been staggering.

Upon returning to the city, we decided to try and make our way back to our hotel via subway. This was no easy task when the alphabet used is so different from ours. We managed to muddle through with only a wrong turn after leaving the subway marring the experience.

A group of 8 of us (Bill, Rick, Kathie, Nancy, Sean, Mary, and I) decided to have dinner at the “Western Disco” that Bill, Nancy and I had discovered yesterday. The food was very good there (I had trout) and we were all pleased with the choice.

-ME

Day 0 June 13: St. Petersburg, Russia

Another early start today as I am still finding it difficult to sleep past 5:00am. I used the time before the breakfast buffet opened to write yesterday’s journal entry and take a stroll around the grounds.

First on the agenda today is a 3-hour tour of the Hermitage Museum. We all crammed, (and I do mean sardine style crammed), into a city bus for the ride into downtown St. Petersburg.

Upon arrival at the museum we were met by our guide (who was very good). Unfortunately, it seems that there are no restrictions on the number of people or guides allowed into the museum at any given time so everybody wants to start the tour when the doors open at 10:30am and, since everyone must start from the same entrance, there are a lot of bodies milling around with many tour guides vying to be heard over the din. It wasn’t too bad at first as the beginning halls are quite spacious and I marveled at the magnificent architecture and opulence of the rooms we passed through. However, as time passed the rooms were becoming smaller and it was hard to move through the pack of bodies and it was almost impossible to hear our tour guide. I was also starting to lose interest as it seems there are an awful lot of “historically significant” religious paintings were to be observed on the tour. (A sure eyes-glaze-over formula for me). With all the packed bodies, it was also getting hot and stuffy so, about an hour into the tour, I looked at Fritz (WI), who was standing near me, and said “I’m outta here”. He joined me and we deserted the group to find an exit (Not an easy task as this is a really BIG place). As soon as we got away from the crowds I immediately felt better as the air was fresh and cool once again. As we wandered the halls we did manage to find displays that I found interesting. There was one room filled with armor and weapons from the Middle Ages …… cool stuff!

Eventually Fritz and I did find the exit and proceeded to locate a place on the main drag for lunch. (Ribs for me), After ordering, we spotted Rick, Kathie, Bill and Nancy walking by and we flagged them down to join us. They had endured the tour for a half hour longer than I did and ducked out when the group stopped for a bathroom break. (I don’t think anyone is going to call our small group art snobs anytime soon)

After lunch, we took a boat cruise through the canals of St. Petersburg. It was a very nice and serene ride and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

After docking, we spotted a Baskin Robbins and decided we needed ice cream and we followed that up by ducking into a local brewery for a cold beer.

We then caught the metro train for our return trip to our hotel.

Some observations on Russian women:

I’ve never seen so many young stunningly attractive, tall, blonde hair, blue eyed women in one place than here in Russia. They can be seen everywhere strutting down the street wearing skimpy tight fitting clothes and 3-inch high stiletto heels. Truly, it’s an awe-inspiring sight. However, we haven’t been able to figure out why we don’t see many attractive women over the age of 30. What happens to them? Does a dormant Gene suddenly activate that causes them to shrink, become stout and do a facial morph into Popeye? We’ve taken to calling it the “Babushka Gene” or perhaps it should be called the “Brezhnev Effect”. In any case, it’s a mystery we haven’t been able to solve.

-ME

Day 1 June 14: St. Petersburg to Gatchina, Russia

Today is the first official day of the actual bicycle trip. The plan is to meet in the hotel lobby at 11:00am, load the bus, have an early lunch then travel, via bus, southward approximately 40-miles to the town of Gatchina. Upon arrival we will prepare our bicycles and take a tour of the town. (and hopefully find some kind of Internet Café as I doubt we’ll have Internet access at the hotel.)

Later:

Now I know why our bicycle ride is not starting from St. Petersburg. Riding the road to Gatchina would have been awful …. Lots of traffic coupled with bad roads.

Gatchina is a fairly nice town. It has a main street that is blocked for auto traffic and, while not affluent, is nice to wander through. I was able to access the Internet by buying time at the Post Office …… 30 Rubles (~ $1.20) for 30 minutes.

Our hotel for tonight is small, fairly new and very nicely appointed and is a welcome upgrade from out St. Petersburg hotel.

We were fitted to our bikes this afternoon. They’re Cannondale aluminum road bikes with Shimano components. For some unknown reason, the shifting for the rear derailleur is backwards from any bike I’ve ever ridden before. (The small lever moves the chain to a lower [easier] gear) This will take a little getting used to. The pedals and seat were replaced with my own set that I brought with me and all seems to be well and I’ll be ready to ride tomorrow.

Tomorrow’s 77-mile ride will take us to Ivangorod, Russia.

-ME

Day 2 June 15: Gatchina to Ivangorod

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 58 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:30
Average Speed: 12.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 1547 ft.
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We’ve had a remarkably good run of weather since arriving in Russia. With temperature highs in the low 70′s and very little rain, (a few thunder showers), it has been very comfortable. I awoke early this morning to the sound of rain beating down on the skylights above my room. By the time we completed breakfast, the rain had passed and the skies quickly turned blue if a bit too cool for my taste. We were not so fortunate when it came to the wind. It came blowing from the west at what must have been 25-miles an hour and did not slacken for the entire day. Unfortunately, the next destination for us was the town of Ivangorod which was almost due west of us ….. we were doomed. This tour is different than any other I have ever done in that it doesn’t supply cue sheets to the riders. We have been given a large map of Eastern Europe and that, coupled with chalk arrows on the road, is supposed to be sufficient to guide us to our next hotel. I started today’s ride with the lead group and we did, indeed, follow the chalk arrows out of town. So, here I was riding along, battling a brutal cross wind all the while thinking to myself: “Well, at least the road is in fairly decent shape and even though the cross wind is brutally strong at least the dense rows of trees and shrubs lining the road help mitigate the effects.” It wasn’t until we were about 35 miles into the ride that anyone in our lead group questioned why we hadn’t seen any chalk arrows for quite a while. The map was brought out at a gas station, a local Russian was questioned and via sign language and gestures it was determined that we had spent the last 35 miles headed south instead of west …… crap! As there are very few side roads, it seems we would have to go back almost to the start of the ride in order to get back on track ….. double crap! As we headed back the way we came I did some mental calculations and figured that out 77-mile ride was about to become a 125 mile ride …. Most of which would be against a 25mph head wind …. Triple crap! The sky also was beginning to cloud up and the temperature dropped enough for me to break out my rain jacket. The support van finally caught up to us at about mile 58 and offered to give us a ride. 5 out of 7 of us accepted the offer thinking that we would get out and ride again when we were back on the correct route. Upon reaching the correct road, it was quickly apparent that: it was not a very good road, the route was not scenic, the head winds were devilishly strong and it was cold. In contrast the van was very warm and cozy …. We all elected to stay in the van …. We chose wisely.

To call today’s hotel “Spartan” would be an understatement. This has got to be the worst hotel I’ve ever stayed at. The exterior looks pretty beat up with pitted concrete and missing tiles and the interior mirrors the outside appearance. (see pictures)

Some observations about Russians:

There’s a stereotype about how much alcohol the Russians consume. Unfortunately, it’s true. If you walk into a convenience store at least ½ the available space is displaying some type of alcoholic beverage. I’m not sure if there’s a legal drinking age here but I suspect not. Most teenagers on the street after 10:00pm are carrying bottles of beer, vodka or other alcoholic beverage. In the morning bottles are littered everywhere. The Russian people, in general, seem to be an unhappy lot and I didn’t observe a lot of laughter or, for that matter, many smiles.

Tomorrow we cross the border into Estonia traveling 43 miles to the town of Toila. I will not be sad to leave Russia behind.

-ME

Day 3 June 16: Ivangorod to Toila, Estonia

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 36 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:42
Average Speed: 13.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 852 ft.
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Today we passed through the border from Russia into Estonia and it was like going from night into day. Suddenly the sun was shining, birds were singing and people would actually return our smiles. It’s good to be out of Russia.

It was a short and very pleasant ride through the Estonian countryside to our destination at a Spa resort hotel located in the town of Toila on the shore of the Baltic Sea. (Wow! … talk about a contrast in hotels from yesterday to today)

It was a great day on the bike.

Tomorrow’s 70-mile ride will take us to Palmse, Estonia.

-ME

Day 4 June 17: Toila to Palmse

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 71miles
On-Bike Time: 4:42
Average Speed: 15 mph
Elevation Climb: 1403 ft.
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As I sit here in my room writing this journal there’s a private party going on downstairs ….. I’m being serenaded with lots of accordion music and singing ……. Oh my god, I think they’re singing “My Darling Clementine”. (The words “Oh My Darling Clementine” are being sung in English but Estonian is being used for the rest of the lyrics) ….. how funny.

It was sunny and cool when we started out from the hotel today. At mile 15 it started to cloud up and by mile 20 a light rain was falling that would be with us for the last 50 miles of today’s ride …… major bummer as we spent most of the day riding on lightly traveled roads that meandered along the coast of the Baltic Sea.

I know it sounds funny, (some would say insane), to say this as, if I was at home, I would never consider venturing out to ride on a day like this, but I actually enjoyed today’s ride. I felt good, I was riding with friends and we had some good laughs along the way. At one point we stopped to have a nice cup of coffee at a café while watching a group of locals play bocce ball.

Tonight we’re staying at a Estonian Manor House. It’s quite nice by European standards but I wish the bed was bigger. It’s no wonder the population in Europe is shrinking; Sex would be pretty uncomfortable in one of these toy beds.

Tomorrow’s 57-mile ride will take us to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, where we will spend our first off day.

-ME

Day 5 June 18: Palmse to Tallinn

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 60 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:35
Average Speed: 13.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 1216 ft.
————————————————
We started our ride today under dark and threatening skies that would live up to their promise of rain and cold at about the half way mark to our destination city of Tallinn on the Baltic Sea. Before the rain began we had a chance to enjoy the Estonian countryside at a leisurely (some would say “scenic” or “final four”) pace.

While making a stop at a Gas Station/Convenience Store, (Yes, some things are universal), in the village of Kiiu, John, who is here with his 2 grown sons, asked the clerk if there was a place to get coffee nearby. We were directed us to a location about ¼ mile off our route. We were delighted to find the coffee shop was located in what is reputed to be the smallest fortress in Estonia. It’s a small vassal castle built in the beginning of the 16^th century. (see picture)

After indulging ourselves with freshly brewed java we resumed our journey. A local boy on a bicycle challenged us to a bike race and Rick was fast to take him up on it. (see picture) It was shortly after this that the drizzle and rain that was to dog us the rest of the way began. It’s really too bad because the approach to the city would have been very enjoyable in better weather conditions. There were wide bike paths that wandered through parks and past the harbor where cruise ships lie at anchor. Our route took us through the defensive walls of the old city with cobbled streets and walkways …… very cool!

It’s another nice hotel tonight and imagine my surprise when I opened the door and spotted a queen size bed. Of course, the room size is still typical European so the bed fills most of the available space. I’m currently using the rear edge of the bed as a chair for the desk.

If any of you have any questions about my experiences in Eastern Europe, please feel free to ask. I’ll happily share my totally biased opinions.

P.S. : Some of you have informed me that you’re not receiving or, are not able to open, my attached pictures. I’m sending the picture attachments as “.jpg” files. If you’re not getting them (or if they show up as “.dat” files) then your server is not letting them get through. (AOL is especially bad) Please let me know if there’s an alternative email address I can send to (any of the free web email addresses such as gmail or yahoo seem to work fine)

-ME

Day 6 June 19: Rest Day – Tallinn

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 225 miles
On-Bike Time: 16:25
Average Speed: 13.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 5018 ft.
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I woke to brilliant sunshine streaming through my window …… unfortunately, it was 4:00am and it was not yet time for me to rise. After a couple more hours of sleep, I was ready to tackle the day. It was sunny and warm all day today which was most welcome after the overcast and rain of the last 2 days. First on the agenda was finding a Laundromat to wash my clothes. The mission was quickly accomplished as the tour staff members volunteered to drive our laundry to the Laundromat and start the washing machines for us. We walked in a bit later; put them in the dryer; waited while they went through the dry cycle; folded them and then the tour van brought them back to the hotel while we went back into the old town to find a place for lunch.

This, being Estonia, with many establishments serving local culinary delights such as Sauerkraut and pickled herring, (thank god borscht has been left behind), and since you all know how much I love to experience new taste sensations …….. a group of us went to an Italian restaurant and I had pizza. (and it was good ….. I chose wisely)

After lunch we spent quite a bit of time wandering the streets of Tallinn. Kathie and I even stopped and did a little archery near the old defensive wall ….. it was a hoot.

Tallinn has done an extraordinary job of mixing old and new throughout the city. By doing so, it has been able to keep the charm of the old medieval core of the city intact while still attracting the new businesses necessary to produce a modern and vibrant city. It’s also very easy to communicate in this city. Most Estonian youths speak 3 languages; Estonian, Russian and English …. I really like this city.

For dinner tonight, a group of 12 of us made reservations at “Olde Hansas” a medieval themed restaurant located in the heart of Old Town. Food is served “family style” in that bowls of food get passed from person to person. We sampled many different dishes such as: Svelt (some kind of grain….not great eating), turnips (OK, but not a favorite), Stew made up of Boar, Bear and Elk (very tasty), Boar (Good, but a little fatty for my taste), Salmon (Great!) and Sausage (very good). I’m not sure what it is we ate for dessert, (It was white and had the consistency of cool whip), but it was fantastic.

It was a great Rest Day.

Tomorrow’s 85-mile ride will take us to Haapsalu, Estonia.

-ME

Day 7 June 20: Tallinn to Haapsalu

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 77 miles
On-Bike Time: 5:08
Average Speed: 15.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 1317 ft.
——————————————–
I awoke this morning to a fabulous blue sky that beckoned me westward 77-miles to the town of Haapsalu, Estonia.

It was a fabulous day to ride. Good weather combined with generally smooth traffic free roads through lush farmland and meadows is all it takes to put a wide smile on my face.

One of the topics of discussion while riding today is the lack of aggression displayed by Estonian drivers. They always give bicyclists a wide berth while passing. I’m not sure the cars come equipped with horns in this country; if they do, I have yet to hear one honk. Not even in the capital city of Tallinn ….. very nice!

Bill, Rick, John and I kicked it up a notch the last 7-miles into Haapsalu. We were reaching upwards of 25mph against a light head wind at times. (It’s nice to still have energy to burn at the end of a ride)

I’m told that Haapsalu enjoyed a prosperous period as a Spa town in the early 1900′s until the Soviet Union took over Estonia and decided Haapsalu shouldn’t be a Spa town anymore and so it slowly slid downhill. Now that Estonia is free, there’s been a renaissance and there is rebuilding going on everywhere in town. They’re even rebuilding some walls of the old castle that once dominated the area ……. Very cool!

Our hotel in Haapsalu is, once again, very nice. We are right on a bay, with a family of swans to watch from our balcony. 

Our bathroom, once again, features an “open design” shower ….. a 5X5 area with a drain in the center.  The real problem is that it was designed with no slope to the drain – hence, a handled squeegee is provided to swab the flooded floor to the drain …… bad engineering.

It’s been a great day!

Tomorrow’s 75-mile ride to Saaremaa Island should be interesting as it involves 2 ferry rides.

-ME

Day 8 June 21: Haapsalu to Kuressaare

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 72 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:50
Average Speed: 15 mph
Elevation Climb: 1205 ft.
——————————————-
It was a rather leisurely morning as we only had 7-miles to ride to catch a ferry boat leaving for the Island of Hiiumaa at 10:30am.

After a 1.5 hour ferry ride, we found ourselves bicycling the next 32-miles on some little traveled country roads dotted with small farms, meadows and Forrest land.

The weather was fairly good (a little cloudy and cool) but we were fated to battle a light head wind for most of the day. We traveled at a fairly leisurely pace as we had until 4:00pm to reach the town of Sonu to catch the ferry leaving for the Island of Saaremaa.

On the way, we stopped to have lunch at a small café. I had Meat Soup (It’s what they called it) which was OK (A few too many ingredients for my taste) I also had chicken …. Again, only OK …… too short on chicken …. Too much extra, unnecessary stuff. (I always enjoy the boiled potatoes though)

This ferry ride was only 45 minutes and we arrived in Saaremaa Island about 5:00pm with another 33-miles to ride before reaching the city of Kuressaare.

We only made one stop to view the 4000 year old Kaali Meteorite Crater.

We arrived in town about 7:30pm and immediately found an outdoor café to eat dinner and have a beer. I had the traditional Estonian dish of Pasta Bolognese (very good) and a bowl of Meat Soup (Very good this time …. Not too many extras)

It’s been a very long day and I’m plumb tuckered out.

We have to start early tomorrow because we have 27-miles of bicycling to catch the 10:00am ferry for the 4-hour trip to the country of Latvia. Our destination for tomorrow night is Liedags, Latvia.

-ME

Day 9 June 22: Kuressaare to Jurkalne, Latvia

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 62 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:25
Average Speed: 14 mph
Elevation Climb: 622 ft.
——————————————
We got an early start today as we needed to bicycle 27 miles to catch a 10:00am ferry for the 4-hour trip to Latvia.

We are all sorry to be leaving Estonia behind; we found the people very friendly, the bicycling was good and it was very easy to communicate with the locals as almost everyone can speak at least a little English. It is a country that is reveling in its independence from the Soviet Union and it looks to have a very bright future.

We only spend 1 night in Latvia so I doubt whether I’ll have the chance to observe the people here as much as I would like to. Observations so far: Latvia, like Estonia, seems to be doing well after gaining their independence from Russia. The roads are not in as good of condition as Estonia (we traveled on pretty bad roads for several miles) and the drivers definitely drive much faster here. The people here seem to be friendly towards westerners; they readily return our smiles and waves.

The hotel for tonight is small, new and modern but it does not have internet access.

Tomorrow’s 112 mile (Ugh!) ride will take us to Klaipeda, Lithuania.

-ME

Day 10 June 23: Jurkalne to Klaipeda, Lithuania

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 102 miles
On-Bike Time: 7:33
Average Speed: 13.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 1290 ft.
——————————————-
It’s bad enough having to ride over 100 miles in a day but to wake up, look outside and see rain falling down is really the pits. It was not a warm rain either and we all had to wear our heaviest rain gear in order to try to keep warm. The first part of the ride was totally miserable. Besides the rain and cold, we had to contend with crumbling, pot hole riddled pavement and speeding cars …… not fun. The rain did begin to let up about mile 40 but the bad roads were to remain until we left Latvia. We had lunch at a small café about at about the half-way point. I ordered the Goulash in a bread bowl …. It sounded good ….. eat a hearty stew and then eat the bread bowl. Unfortunately, it took almost an hour to get the meal and when we got it the there wasn’t much Goulash and the bread bowl was so hard as to be almost inedible. Oh well …. At least it had stopped raining. We crossed the border into Lithuania at about the 75-mile mark. It’s hard to get a feel for the country of Latvia as we were only in the country for 1 night, but I do know there was a major improvement in the quality of the roads after we entered Lithuania. Coincidently, the sun made a welcome appearance about this time also.

It seems this weekend is the Summer Festival for the Baltic Countries. (It’s a time of major partying). When we reached the town of Palanga there were lots of street vendors servicing the throngs of people that had converged on the town. We badly needed a nutrition break (ice cream, of course) so I used an ATM to get some local currency. I got $50 Litai and went to a street vendor to purchase an ice cream. I gave her the $50 Litai bill and she gave me 2 each $20 bills then she brought out this humongous change purse and proceeded to count out coins. By the time she was done there was a pile of about 70 coins …. Good lord …. What was I supposed to do with all that coinage? So, I pointed to the pile of coins and told her to give me as much ice cream as it would buy and distribute it to my friends.

The last 40 miles of today’s ride were actually very pleasant and I felt very good at its end.

Tomorrow’s 29-mile will take us to Nida located on a sand spit on the Baltic Sea. Obviously, this is going to be a very leisurely ride and we’ve been told that a lot of amber washes ashore on this sand spit …. So maybe we’ll look for amber.

-ME

Day 11 June 24: Klaipeda to Nida

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 18 miles
On-Bike Time: 1:28
Average Speed: 12.3 mph
Elevation Climb: 512 ft.
——————————————-
It was a welcome late start today. There was rain early but it had stopped and the skies had turned partly cloudy by the time we loaded our luggage at 10:00am. We then caught a ferry that would take us to the sand spit where we would ride the 29 miles to Nida, our stop for the night. We were in “scenic” mode riding under a canopy of trees taking in the sights at a very leisurely pace. We stopped in the beach town of Juockrante for a much needed Cappuccino break. (after all, we had ridden almost 13 miles!). After about an hour we felt we had recovered sufficiently to ride once again. Shortly afterwards we spotted a sign directing us to scenic outlook. There was a wooden walkway which led to the top of a small hill. Upon walking up we were greeted by an OK view of the Baltic Sea but nothing spectacular. On the way down, I slipped on the wooden walkway and my left foot skidded off the edge gouging through the soft dirt until encountering a tree root. My ankle twisted and I heard a loud snap …… through the pain I remember thinking “This can’t be good”. Imagine my relief when I discovered that the snap I heard was the tree root breaking and not my ankle. The ankle was definitely in pain though as I hobbled down the hill to my bike. I managed to get on the bike and ride but I was favoring that sore left ankle. Bill, who was riding behind me, said “Dan, I think your ankle is starting to swell”. He was right, it wasn’t looking pretty. We found a place to stop and Bill and Rick rode on ahead to flag down the support van to bring me to the hotel. I was left in the very capable hands of Jane and Reed who supplied me with food, ibuprofen, and emotional support while I waited. Michele, one of the support staff, showed up shortly thereafter and he was able to contact the van by phone. I was picked up shortly thereafter and brought back to our hotel. Marjorie had brought an ice bag from home so she’s letting be borrow it to keep my sprained ankle on ice. Getting around is a bit of a problem. Rick Price (tour company owner) lent me the use of his camera mono-pod to use as a cane. I wanted to join my fellow riders for lunch but the café was a couple of blocks away (way too far for me to hobble) so I rented one of those two rider pedal carts, (like you see in Monterey), and Monica, leader of the tour staff, pedaled me out to the lunch spot. After dining Rick rode me home in my new chariot. I’m not yet sure how bad the sprain is but I’m sure I’ll be reporting from the van tomorrow.

Tomorrow’s 50 mile van trip will take us out of Lithuania and back into Russia to the city of Kaliningrad. (I don’t think any of us are very eager to return to Russia)

-ME

Day 12 June 25: Nida to Kaliningrad, Russia

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.
——————————————-
My life in the Van:

First an update on my foot: I can hobble on it but it’s mighty swollen (looks like a big sausage). I’m trying to keep ice on it but it’s not easy to come by here in Europe ….. it seems nobody uses ice ….. even bars and restaurants are very stingy with it. It’s not terribly painful, but I don’t like having my mobility hampered and I’d much rather ride a bike on a nice sunny day then ride in the van.

It was a ride of about 2 miles to the Russian border and it was there that the days first challenge occurred. Polo, who’s from Mexico, (and our only non-USA rider) was not given the proper Russian Visa by the Russian Embassy in Mexico. It seems his Visa was only good for a single entry into Russia and, as this is our second sojourn into that country, they refused him entry. The solution: A taxi was hired to drive Paolo around this isolated section of Russia and into Poland where he will rejoin us. (about an 8-hour drive).

The border crossing entering Russia is very inefficient and somewhat comical to behold:

1^st Check Point: Give everyone a form to fill out (in duplicate) of information that is already on your passport and visa.

2^nd Check Point: Passport Control – Inspect, scan and stamp passport and visa, take 1 copy of the form that was filled in at Check Point #1.

3^rd Check Point: Customs – The riders were waved through this check point but the van had to stop and fill in a customs form. A fee had to be paid at Cashier Station #1. Since this border entry is located in a national park, an additional park fee had to be paid at Cashier Station #2. And, of course, every foreign owned vehicle entering Russia must have a Russian Insurance Policy …… sooo, yep, it’s on to Cashier #3.

4^th Check Point: You need to give the guard a piece of paper proving that you have run the gamut.

We spent 2-hours just getting into Russia.

Usually, a member of the tour staff starts out before the riders and marks the turns in chalk, but, because of the delays at the border the van was way behind the riders and the route was not marked. Fortunately, we were still riding on the sand spit so no turn decisions had to be made for quite a few miles. The riders were told to wait once they reached an intersection where a turn decision had to be made. But, before we in the van were able to get to them, we were stopped by the Russian Police as part of a random roadside check. They inspected our driver and van making sure they were properly licensed and insured. They even asked for vehicle inspection documentation …… I’m sure they were looking for anything out of place so that they could press us for a bribe. They finally let us go after finding nothing they could cite us for. We finally caught up to the lead riders at a gas station. We quickly went on ahead and marked the proper route. Unfortunately, a group of riders totally missed a turn and, while still headed for Kaliningrad, would not know where to go once reaching the city (900,000 population). Monica (tour leader) had a decision to make. Should we mark an alternate route for the faster riders who had missed the turn or should we continue to mark the regularly plotted route? The decision was made to mark the alternate route first then swing back and mark the normal route. It all worked out in the end, but it wasn’t smooth or easy. To top off the day, there was also a hotel snafu. It seems that the hotel, where we were supposed to stay tonight, thought that our reservations were for yesterday so our staff, once again, had to scramble to find us all a place to stay tonight. Our tour company staff did a very good job of navigating through each crisis today and I am totally impressed.

Kaliningrad is another convergence place for very attractive Russian women. Other than that, there’s not much that interests me here. It’s just another big, noisy city.

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s installment of: “Life in the Van with Dan” as we, once again, depart Russia (YEAH!) and enter Poland.

-ME

Day 13 June 26: Kaliningrad to Olsztyn, Poland

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.
————————————————-
Foot update: Still swollen and hobbling but the swelling has gone down and it feels much better than yesterday. I’m actually hoping to be able to ride the short 43 mile day into Warsaw on Thursday ….. we shall see.

Once again rain greeted us as we started the day. I have to admit, there’s a smug satisfaction in knowing that you can’t ride when conditions are less than conducive for a comfortable bike ride. Everything was working against the riders today; the weather was crummy, the roads were narrow and congested with traffic, the condition of the roads varied from good to terrible and we had to cross the Russian border into Poland. All these factors combined to make this a miserable day for riding. (The van was dry and comfy though)

It was arranged that all the riders would group up with the van before reaching the Polish Border and we would all cross over together. We met up at a small run-down Russian Café (see picture and movie) where a group of Russian women had obviously been partying for quite some time. We think one of the women propositioned Rick (She went up to him, put her palms flat against each other and rested her head on them pantomiming a sleeping position) …. She was seriously drunk.

The border crossing went as smooth as it can go for anything that involves the Russian bureaucracy. We all felt much better after crossing into Poland. Michele stood up in the van and did a little dance while singing the Italian Anthem (he’s Italian) as we crossed the border. We all met up again at another café just across the Polish Border. While we were still gathered in the café it really began to pour and the wind was blowing hard enough that the rain was going sideways. The tour operators made the decision that it was unsafe to continue to ride and called for a mini-bus to take all the riders to our hotel in Olsztyn (pronounced Olsteen). ……… Nobody complained.

The weather cleared a bit after arriving in Olsztyn and I would have liked to walk around the town this afternoon as it seems nice but my foot injury prevents me from walking too far. (The hotel is very nice though)

Continue to stay tuned for more commentary from “Dan the Van Man” after tomorrow’s 94-mile van ride which will take us to Pultusk, Poland.

-ME

Day 14 June 27: Olsztyn to Pultusk

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.
————————————–
There’s only one internet connection in this hotel so I’m going to make this quick.

Foot update: Though it’s still swollen it feels much better than yesterday. If the weather cooperates, I’m still hoping to be able to ride the short 43 mile day into Warsaw on tomorrow ….. we shall see.

Weather was once again a dominating factor for the riders today. Dark threatening skies once again greeted us as we started out today. Fortunately there wasn’t much rain today. Unfortunately, it was cold and “chill to the bone” windy. I really didn’t envy them slogging against the wind while I was warm and comfy in the van.

We’re staying tonight in a converted castle which is actually quite different and nice.

-ME

Day 15 June 28: Pultusk to Warsaw

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 46 miles
On-Bike Time: 3:33
Average Speed: 12.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 1128 ft.
———————————————
Foot update: Though it looks like a potato with Vienna Sausages sticking out of it, I managed to wedge my foot into my bicycle shoe this morning so I’m riding to Warsaw.

We were treated to overcast skies, cold temperatures and 15-20mph winds again today as we began our 46 mile ride to Warsaw. Fortunately, it didn’t rain and as the afternoon progressed the skies did clear a little.

I actually had a very good time on the bike today. The scenery today was much like what I saw from the van yesterday but there’s something about riding a bike through the countryside that makes the viewing so much more enjoyable. Perhaps it’s the scent of fresh produce and grains that comes wafting through the air from the small farms dotting the countryside; or maybe it’s the fresh air playing against your face. But what I think was really missing is the companionship and camaraderie that comes with biking with a group of friends. Today I was welcomed back into the fold by Bill, Rick and Kathie and all was good.

Poland isn’t called the breadbasket of Europe for no reason; we passed many fields of ripening wheat, potatoes and corn. All too soon we came to the outskirts of Warsaw. The approach, by bicycle, to any major city is never a joy ….. way too much traffic and congestion. But we all made it through to our hotel without incident.

My foot felt remarkably well after today’s ride ….. I think the swelling actually went down while riding. (hey! … maybe I’ve found a new cure for sprains).

We had duck and potato dumplings for dinner tonight and it was very good. So far, my fear of inedible food has been unfounded.

We lose 4 members of our group, (John, Reed and Brad Caldwell and Doug Coats), here in Warsaw and I am really sorry to see them leave …… they added a lot of humor and vitality to our group. (They were just plain fun to be with) We now number 16 as we continue our journey to Istanbul.

I’m not yet sure what I’m going to do on my day off tomorrow. There’s an optional walking tour scheduled in the morning but I am not yet ready to walk for a couple of hours on my bum foot.

-ME

Day 16 June 29: Rest Day – Warsaw

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 602 miles
On-Bike Time: 43:26
Average Speed: 13.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 11092 ft.
——————————————–
Foot update: The foot continues to improve though it’s still a bit swollen and walking for long distances is very uncomfortable.

Because of my bum foot I was not able to go on the walking tour so I took the bus tour instead.

Warsaw is a city that saw 85% of its buildings destroyed and 75% of its population dead by the end of WWII. Since there is very little left of the original city, monuments are used to mark the locations and events unique to Warsaw history. We visited the monument dedicated to the “Jewish Ghetto District” where 400,000 Jews and 20,000 Gypsies were sectioned off from the rest of the city before eventually being sent to the Gas Chambers. Today, there are only 600 practicing Jews in Warsaw and only a few thousand in all of Poland.

When Warsaw was rebuilt it was decided to try and replicate the city as it was before the war. It’s remarkable to see what they’ve done. To look you would never know that the city is only 60 years old. They have a fabulous “old town” filled with small shops and cafes …. very nice.

After the tour we just had to visit the world famous E. Wedel Chocolate Shop ……. If you like chocolate, it was the place to be. (We, of course, had to sample some)

Unfortunately, I’ve developed a hacking cough and am afraid it’s the beginning of the flu that has been going through our group. (I probably caught it while riding in the van)

-ME

Day 17 June 30: Warsaw to Kazimierz

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.
——————————————-
Yep, I’m riding the van again ……. It is the flu and I’m feeling wretched. Not much to say about today as I was so out of it that I didn’t even watch the scenery go by. I’ve taken some Theraflu and its relieved some of the symptoms but I’ll probably not ride again until after Krakow …… Major Bummer!

-ME

Day 18 July 1: Kazimierz to Sandomierz

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.
——————————————-
What a difference a day makes! I’m feeling MUCH better today. The chills and fever are gone and though I’m still a bit weak I’m betting that, with a good night’s sleep, I’ll be riding the bike tomorrow.

I’ve taken the ace bandage off the foot and I’m happy to say that it too is improving. The toes are still black and blue and it’s a bit sore but the foot is definitely on the mend.

The view from the van was a bit different today. We traveled through rolling hills and instead of wheat and potatoes we were seeing fields of berries, cherries, apples and hops. It would have been a very good day to ride today as the weather was perfect and there wasn’t much wind. It’s Sunday, and since most of Poland is Catholic, there were a lot of people on the road to or from church. Most people don’t drive cars here so it’s either walk or ride a bike. It seems odd to see men dressed in their best suits riding bicycles. I even saw one couple riding to church on a tractor ….. definitely a different culture from ours.

Our stop tonight is the very cool little town of Sandomierz which dates back to the 14^th century.

Tomorrow’s 66 mile ride will take us to Busko Zdroj.

-ME

Day 19 July 2: Sandomierz to Busko Zdroj

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 28 miles
On-Bike Time: 2:10
Average Speed: 12.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 1090 ft.
————————————————–
I had to choose between riding the bike or the van today …… I chose the bike ……. I chose poorly.

There’s a big difference between feeling better and feeling good. I was feeling better when I started today’s ride under overcast skies that would soon produce a light rain. The roads we were riding on were very badly potholed which aggravated my sore foot with every jarring bump I hit. When I found that I had no energy to climb even the smallest of hills, I knew that it was time to jump in the van and join fellow rider John D. who is the latest flu victim. (A total of 5 so far)

As I write this journal, I feel fine it’s only when I start to do anything that requires moderate to heavy exertion that I feel a lack of energy. Tomorrow I will ride in the van to Krakow where a rest day awaits us.

I had a nice walk around the town of Busko Zdroj this afternoon. This is a working class town that does not exhibit the charm of Sandomierz but it has its own vibrant appeal.

Observations on Music: Every country we’ve visited so far, including Russia, has one thing in common: The music scene is dominated by American Media …… it’s everywhere ….. hotel lobbies, stores, etc…..It’s like being in the USA. The ethnic folk music that is unique to the countries we’re visiting are relegated to niche productions.

-ME

Day 20 July 3: Busko Zdroj to Krakow

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 0 miles
On-Bike Time: 0:00
Average Speed: 0 mph
Elevation Climb: 0 ft.
————————————-
Another day of “In the Van with Dan”

With any luck, this will be my last day in the van for the duration of this trip. Joining me in the van were fellow plague victims, Monica (Driver & Tour Leader) and John D. Once again, it was raining as we drove from the hotel trailing after the poor sucke … um ….. riders who had already been on the road for quite some time.

After passing most of the riders, Monica stopped the van in a small village about 20 miles into the ride where there was a neat looking wooden church by the side of the road. One of the locals made it known by his gestures that he wanted us to come with him into the church which he unlocked for us. What awaited us inside was a very comfortable small church of which he was inordinately proud of. He had us look at a picture of Jesus and Mary and, when he flicked a switch, suddenly the loudspeakers started blaring what sounded to me like the theme to “2001 – A space Odyssey” and very slowly the picture started to rise revealing a second picture underneath. It was the most bizarre thing ….. I can honestly say that I’ve never witnessed it’s like in a church before.

By the time we got on the road again, the rain had disappeared and we were starting to see blue sky. This seems to be a pattern …… it rains in the morning and clears in the afternoon. I wonder if it’s the norm here? If so, it’s totally opposite to anywhere else I have ever ridden.

There were more rolling hills today as we slowly make our way towards the mountains that await us in Slovakia. We passed through many small towns and farms on our way to Krakow today and I was able to enjoy my view from the van.

John D. and I have a similar sense of humor and we are able to make each other laugh quite easily. Unfortunately, laughing is guaranteed to set off a coughing spell for those of us getting over the flu so we really had to pay for our laughter today ….. well worth it though.

We got to the hotel in the early afternoon and had plenty of time to explore the old town center before dinner. Lots of restaurants, cafes, and shops line the streets and it really is a neat place to explore. (I’m now walking with less limp and can now wander around albeit a little slower than normal)

Dinner tonight was a very Polish affair.

Upon walking into our dinner room, I take note of the following culinary delights already laid out on the table:

Pickles, Carrots mashed with horseradish, red cabbage, coleslaw and bread. Hmmm …. OK, bread looks good ….. what’s this spread that we’re supposed to use instead of butter? ….. wait, I recognize it …. I had it before while in Warsaw. It’s lard mixed with garlic, onion and salt ….. not good. There’s hope though as I also have a soup bowl. Ah ….. they’re bringing out steaming bowls of soup now …….Oh No! …. It’s purple soup …. The dreaded Borsht is making a comeback. But that’s OK, the main entrée is yet to come ….. surely it must contain something that’s edible? Here it comes …. Ooh’s and ahs are heard from the crowd (my ah-shit is almost inaudible). Cabbage Rolls (stuffed with god knows what), Pork in cabbage, just plain cabbage, Blood Sausage, Proggies (some OK …. Others stuffed with mushrooms), Boiled Potatoes (good) and Fried Potatoes (OK). Is it coincidence that cabbage and garbage are spelled similarly? …… I think not.

Tomorrow, I’ll take more time to explore the city of Krakow.

-ME

Day 21 July 4: Rest Day – Krakow

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 630 miles
On-Bike Time: 45:36
Average Speed: 13.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 12182 ft.
———————————————-
Happy 4^th of July!

Krakow is a bit gloomy today as dark skies and drizzle continue to plague our trip. Due to the sore ankle, I again elected to take the bus tour instead of the walking tour of Krakow. Unfortunately, the bus tour was not very good …… it took us way out of town to some big church where it stopped near some very cheesy souvenir stands. (Get your plastic Jesus and a toy gun …. All at the same stand)

I pretty much relaxed all afternoon and then went out to dinner with Katie, Rick, Bill and Ella. Ella found us a very good restaurant in old town and I had a steak with French fries …… it’s been awhile since I’ve eaten good unadorned food and I was pleased. While eating we were entertained by a Mountain Band playing folk music on 2 violins and a cello. …. They were actually pretty good. On the way back to the hotel we passed a chocolate shop and it wouldn’t have been right not to sample some and, of course, we had to have an ice cream to top it off.

Tomorrow has a leaving Poland and entering Slovakia, a mountainous ride that will be 90+ miles long. I think I will struggle with it after so long a layoff.

-ME

Day 22 July 5: Krakow to Cerveny Klastor, Slovakia

Today contained what was easily the most beautiful scenery of our trip thus far. We’re in the Carpathian Mountains and the land is rich in forests broken by the sculptured lines of cultivated hillsides. We passed through many small prosperous Polish villages before crossing into Slovakia today. Our first taste of Slovakia was riding on a recreational trail following a river gorge where we passed many people who were rafting, hiking or biking.

Though I continue to improve with each passing day, I still am not physically up to snuff. Unfortunately, today’s uphill riding forced me to place a lot of pressure on my ankle which irritated it quite a bit. I’m also still feeling the effects of the flu and the heavy exertion was causing me to have coughing fits. I got into the van about 35 miles into the ride and got out to ride the last 12 miles into the hotel. I’m not used to having physical limitations and it’s annoying as hell.

Tomorrow’s ride will take us to Liptovsky Hrádok and, hopefully, I’ll be a bit more recovered.

-ME

Day 23 July 6: Cerveny Klastor to Liptovsky Hradok

What the hell happened to summer? I’d like Al Gore to come here and give his speech on global warming because it’s sure not happening here. It was another overcast drizzly/rainy cold windy day in the High Tatra Mountains situated in the Carpathian Range. Much like yesterday we passed through many small villages along the way. In one village we were passing through, a young boy ran out to meet us and offered us some fruit ….. Bill gave him a Snickers bar. A little while later a group of kids were in the street and were eager to “high five” us. We also had our first encounter with Gypsy youths today. We had about a dozen swarm us on the road as we were riding. They would actually try and steal things out of our rack packs as we were going by. They succeeded in stealing some bike tools and some cash …. It was an unnerving experience.

I continue to see daily improvement in my stamina and ankle situation though biking is still a struggle for me.

Tomorrow’s mountainous ride will take us to Hriňová

-ME

Day 24 July 7: Liptovsky Hradok to Hriňová

There was a strange golden orb in the sky today. I don’t think the Slovakians have a word in their vocabulary for it but I have a very distant memory of it being called the Sun.

“Here comes the sun
and I say …. It’s alright”

It’s funny how much more positive your outlook becomes on a sunny day. The birds’ song is more robust and the multitudes of wildflowers that line the hillsides are much more vibrant. We are still in the mountains of Slovakia and today’s ride featured probably the hardest day of climbing we will see on this whole trip. There were two major climbs today I made it through the first climb with some difficulty due to the sore ankle so I decided not to attempt the second climb.

Tonight we are staying in a very remote mountain lodge. It’s a little Spartan, but comfortable. There was a wedding reception here tonight and it’s funny to see Slovakians dancing to late 50′s Rock and Roll. We were invited to join in the dancing and merriment and I gave it an attempt ….. sore ankle and all …… it wasn’t graceful ….. play back the video of Daniel and Nicole’s wedding and you’ve pretty well got it.

Tomorrow we wave goodbye to Slovakia and ride 100 miles to Godollo (just outside of Budapest, Hungary) where we will receive another rest day.

-ME

Day 25-26 July 8-9: Hriňová to Godollo, Hungary & Rest Day in Budapest

My ankle was protesting this morning so I elected to ride in the van until reaching the Hungarian border. We were told that Hungary was flat …… we were told wrong! They may not be mountains but Hungary has many hills that will get your attention when bicycling. I lasted a bit over 25 miles when I decided to quit for the day. I did enjoy the short ride though through sunflower fields as the sun was shining and it was warm (maybe even a tad bit too warm). My fellow riders had a 100 mile day and they were pretty worn out by the time they reached our hotel in Godollo.

First, a little about our hotel expectations when heading into a rest day:

• We expect the hotel to be clean and comfortable.
• We expect to have Internet access
• Restaurant & bar nearby
• Laundry Service
• A Pool would be nice
• If there are attractions we expect to be within walking distance of them.

A little about the hotel:

• The location: Godollo? …… where in the hell is Godollo? Here we are near one of the greatest cities in Europe (Budapest) and we’re staying in Godollo? (many of us have taken to calling it Godzilla) It’s about an hour drive from downtown Budapest.
• The Name: Many of us were concerned about the accommodations as soon as we saw the name of the hotel on the itinerary sheet: “The Sunshine Hotel” ……. just doesn’t sound like a good Hungarian name does it? I wouldn’t want to stay at a “Sunshine Hotel” in the USA let alone Europe.
• The Hotel: To say that the hotel was past its prime would be a bit of an understatement. It seems the hotel has just changed hands a couple of weeks ago and there are a few amenities that are missing:
• The Bar and Restaurant are not open
• No Internet Access
• No Laundry Service (Hell ….. My room didn’t even have a bar of soap …. I had to go down to the front desk and it took several minutes for the staff to round a bar up for me).

Needless to say, we were not a bunch of happy campers so the tour staff took action. We spent last night at the Sunshine Hotel and this morning we were all bussed to the Burg Hotel located in the heart of the Buda section of Budapest where we will spend our off day and night …… MUCH BETTER!

We had a good lunch at an outdoor café (I had pasta mixed with Spinach) and then I wandered around for a little while before heading up to my room to write this email and for a much needed rest. Tonight we’ve arranged a dinner cruise on the Danube …… sounds like fun.

-ME

Day 27 July 10: Budapest/Godollo to Szolnok

The dinner cruise on the Danube last night was fantastic. We chartered the boat just for our small group and the weather, food and companionship couldn’t have been better.

Unfortunately, the good weather did not hold and today’s ride started like so many others on this trip …… in the rain, which would continue to fall steadily until late afternoon. I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I have limited “ankle time” available to use each day and I must use it wisely. I decided riding a bike in the rain is NOT a wise use of my “ankle time” and rode in the van again today ….. I did not regret it. It was wet, a bit cold, there were bad roads and the scenery was not great.

Tomorrow’s ride is a short 50-miler to Csongrad and I’m hoping to bike the entire ride.

-ME

Day 28 July 11: Szolnok to Csongrád

I was finally able to start and finish a ride today. Granted, it was only 50 flat miles but the weather was terrific and I was able to ride with minimal discomfort so I really enjoyed myself today. Besides the acres of Sunflowers that dominate the farmland in these parts, I also spotted my first grapevines of the trip.

The real joy of the day was after our arrival in Csongrad. The owners of our small hotel for tonight warmly greeted us in front of the hotel as we rolled into town. We were offered orange juice and pastries and immediately made to feel we were long lost relatives coming for a visit. ……. It’s a nice feeling. The town of Csongrad is a small, vibrant working class town that I was immediately comfortable with. Kathie and I took the time to walk and explore to the outer reaches of the Old Fishing Village. Upon returning to the hotel we met up with Rick and Sean and went out for pizza and beer for lunch. In the meantime, our hotel hosts were cooking us up a special treat for dinner. ….. Homemade Lamb Goulash slowly cooked over an open flame. We were offered up tastes as it simmered so I knew beforehand that it would be delicious …… and it was! Dinner was a joyous affair with lots of good food, wine and laughing.

It’s been a very good day.

P.S.: I think I’ve over exceeded my “ankle time” today as the ankle is swollen as I write this tonight ….. hopefully a few Ibuprofen will bring the swelling down by tomorrow.

-ME

Day 29 July 12: Csongrád to Makó

I had another very enjoyable day on the bike today. It was another short (53-mile) day spent riding through small communities and by fields of corn and Sunflowers (I somehow never get tired of looking at Sunflowers ….. they look like smiley faces.) I’m amazed at how many of the local people use bicycles to get around. They all have baskets mounted and they carry everything in them. (I’ve seen huge watermelons and even lumber) Some areas we’ve traveled through have dedicated bicycle paths that stretch between the small villages and, in many instances; we have been able to take advantage of these to stay off the main highways.
Wow! …. We’ve had two straight days of riding without being rained on ….. one more day and I think we’ll have a record for this trip.

Tonight is our last night in Hungary. We’re about 4 miles from the Romanian border and we will have a rest day upon arriving in Timişoara, Romania tomorrow.

-ME

Day 30 July 13: Makó to Timişoara, Romania

We had, what for me, was the worst meal of the entire trip last night. It started with Onion Soup ….. they gave me a substitute soup which was just as inedible. Next we had a pasta that was mixed with cottage cheese …… what were they thinking? …… tasted awful. Last and least was desert ….. some kind of pancake with an awful brown colored filling covered in what I think was Bosco chocolate sauce …… Oh man …. They were 0 for 3.

Today’s 57-mile ride took us out of Hungary and into the city of Timisoara in Romania. Once crossing the border we could see an immediate change in the living conditions. Romania appears to be much more third world than any of the other countries we’ve traveled through (excepting Russia). The crops still largely consist of Sunflowers and Corn but the farms seem more unkempt than in Hungary. We saw lots of ruins of the old collective farms that have long been abandoned. Amazingly, the road we traveled today was in very good condition. There was quite a bit of traffic though as we spent all day riding on a major thoroughfare since there isn’t any alternative paved roads where we traveled today. It was a mileage day today as there wasn’t a lot to see along the road. (There are lots of roadside fruit stands which are sure to come in handy during the hotter and longer days ahead) We did have a tailwind so we were able to make very good time. (We even managed to catch and pass a commuter train that was running parallel to our road)

Timisoara is a fairly large working class industrial city and our hotel is situated near a very nice pedestrian shopping plaza. We spent a lot of time there this afternoon observing the people as they passed by.

Tonight’s meal was yet another traditional one (I cringe whenever I hear those words) …… this time Romanian. It started with a salad which everyone raved about ….. I volunteered mine to be shared by the group. I enjoyed the cheese platter though. The main dish consisted of a pork stew (OK ….. but way too many onions and mushrooms) and Polenta (not one of my favorites). It’s Chantal’s 53^rd birthday today so we had a piece of delicious birthday cake for desert.

Some observations about Eastern European woman’s hair style: Ok …… what’s with the red hair ….. an awful lot of them color or highlight their hair a strange unnatural color of red …… it’s almost maroon ….. not a good look! ….. what are they thinking?

Tomorrow’s a rest day and another walking tour of town is scheduled. I’m not sure whether I will take it. Right now, my ankle is still swollen and I’m not sure I want to use valuable “ankle time” walking around for a couple of hours.

-ME

Day 31 July 14: Rest Day – Timişoara, Romania

Today was a rest day in, what turned out to be, a very nice city. After a leisurely breakfast we went on a walking tour with Alex, our new guide for Romanian. The town square, where our hotel is located, was the initial source of the uprising where the Ceaucsecsu regime was toppled in 1989. There really wasn’t much else that we were shown that was of much interest to me. If you’re in to churches there were four more to add to your list.

I had lunch at many of the numerous outdoor cafes that line the Plaza. (I had a steak and French fries …… Ahhh ….. gotta love the rest days where you can choose where and what to eat.) After lunch I wandered around for awhile, took a nap then had a beer with Bill at an outdoor café as we watched the world pass us by ….. very nice …. Very relaxing.

Dinner was once again an outdoor affair …… Italian this time ….. Pizza for me. There was an outdoor concert tonight in the town square plaza …. The warm up harpsichord duet was nice but then the Fat Lady starting singing and I was out of there.

It was a very nice and relaxing day for me.

At 95 miles, tomorrow’s ride to Oravita will be a very long day for me and my ankle.

-ME

Day 32 July 15: Timişoara to Oravita

Today’s ride featured long mileage along terrain that started out flat, eventually turned to rolling hills that became downright mountainous towards the finish. This was also the first day on this trip where heat was a factor as it climbed into the low 90′s this afternoon. The roads were also very rough for most of the ride which was a constant irritant to my still damaged ankle. So much so that I called it quits after and rode in the van after about 70 miles. I think I mentioned that Romania had a third world feel to it. It was more in evidence today as we passed through many small impoverished towns …… houses with no windows, dirt or gravel roads with farming done the old fashioned way, with horses and carts. There is also litter everywhere by the roadside. For the most part, the people are very friendly and will wave to us as we ride by. They sometimes stare at us …… I don’t think they see a lot of Americans here ….. certainly not as tourists.

We are spending the night at Hotel Luisa which, I guess, could be considered “Rustic” in nature. This is a place where we were greeted by pigs frolicking in the front yard. I’ll save my “Observations about European Hotels” for a future email but, I’ll tell you now that European hotels are very stingy with soap ….. usually you get a bar of soap that’s as big as your thumb. The good news about this hotel is there was a large bar of soap in the bathroom. The bad news was that it’s been previously used ….. this kind of traveling takes some getting used to.

Tomorrow features another long 90+ mile ride that follows the Danube River Gorge for the entire distance. It’s supposed to be hot but, hopefully, it’ll be a pretty ride.

-ME

Day 33 July 16: Oravita to Orşova

Today’s ride is my definition why it is that I enjoy touring by bicycle so much. We followed the Danube River Gorge all day today and, it seemed to me, that we found new delights upon rounding every curve in the road. The Danube River forms the border between Romania and Serbia and though poverty is still prevalent, there was more new construction and vitality along today’s route. They are also in the midst of rebuilding the road we were traveling on and we ran the gamut of road conditions: freshly paved, old and potholed, dirt, gravel, rock …… we experienced it all. I sometimes had to pedal with only my right foot to prevent too much jarring on my left ankle. But it was worth it because, for me, this was the prettiest ride of the tour so far. Unfortunately, it was very hot today (somewhere in the 90′s) and we had a persistent headwind that marred what could have been a perfect ride. The ankle once again forced me to abandon the ride at about the 70 mile mark. (I take solace in that the good part of the ride was over by then)

I was very happy to hear we were having fish for tonight’s meal (I’m getting very tired of pork). As usual, I donated my salad to the group as I waited patiently for my fish. Well ….. I finally found a fish I don’t like …. They served us Carp ….. Carp?! ….. mushy dark meat with lots of bones and not so good taste. They served it with Polenta (The European equivalent of grits and every bit as tasty). The food is definitely changing for the worse as we move south. I ordered some French Fries to tide me over (very tasty).

We’ll leave Romania tomorrow as we head to Vidin, Bulgaria a distance of about 80 miles.

-ME

Day 34 July 17: Orşova to Vidin, Bulgaria

The weather report called for 100 degree afternoon temperatures in Vidin, Bulgaria today so an early start was in order for all the riders. I had a chance to relax and have a leisurely breakfast as I was not one of those riders today. My ankle continues to bother me so I decided to take the day off.

In the view from the van, the well trafficked roads looked plenty narrow and rough today as major road construction work was being made throughout today’s route. My ankle was giving sympathy pains as we bounced along in the van. The scenery was not very exciting today, (more small poverty stricken towns and farms), so I don’t feel I missed much.

We ferried across the river border into Bulgaria towards the end of today’s ride. My first impression is Romania looks healthy and prosperous compared to Bulgaria. Wow! …. Living conditions are primitive and depressing here. There are old communist era high rise apartments that are in a bad state of repair. In stark contrast, we’re residing at, what I think, is one of the better hotels that we’ve stayed at on this trip. The rooms are nice and modern with large, (for Europe), and comfortable beds.

Later: OK, this town has a large town square which, while a little run down is still quite nice with many outdoor cafes and shops. That’s one thing I wish America had more of ….. large town squares where cars are not allowed.

Time for dinner ….. if they delight us by serving a “Traditional Bulgarian Meal” I think I’ll look elsewhere for sustenance.

Later still: OK ….. it was chicken ….. all is well.

Tomorrow’s 81 mile ride will take us to Montana (Look it up, there really is a Montana in Bulgaria)

-ME

Day 35 July 18: Vidin to Montana

It was a very hot day on the bike today. It was already almost 100 degrees by the time we reached Belogradchik at the 55 mile mark at about 12:00pm. It was there that my ankle once again protested …. too many hills with too much heat ….. not a good combo. It was really too bad because I loved today’s route ….. rolling hills on fairly decent roads with little traffic and I was about to begin a 10 mile descent when I had to call it quits …… bummer! The heat affected a few of our group today and there were more people that wanted a van ride into the hotel then the van could possibly hold. Monica solved the problem by arranging for a couple of taxi’s to ferry us to our hotel in Montana. Our small group is really an ensemble of the walking sick and wounded. Besides the flu and my ankle sprain there’s been a couple of bike accidents that have resulted in bruised ribs and thighs. A couple of people have foot problems and there have been quite a few cases of the Galloping Crud and other unidentified ailments.

Coming into Montana, I was very leery of tonight’s hotel. Monica approached Bill and I last night and inquired of us if we minded sharing a bathroom …… this is normally not a good sign. As it turns out, the hotel is actually pretty nice. Bill and I have the entire third floor to ourselves and we have a lot of space. (Bill actually has the Master Suite with a Queen Bed, Sofa and Chairs, big TV, big refrigerator, fireplace and even a Tea Service Set. In contrast, my room’s half the size crammed with two small beds, a dinky refrigerator, a 14″ TV and an anemic air conditioner that leaks water on the floor …… hmmmm ….. I wonder how he arranged this?)

Rick, Kathie and I wandered around the town square this afternoon and it would have been very pleasant except for the heat. I did buy some freshly cooked corn-on-the-cob ….. it tasted very good ….. I wonder why we don’t get served the simple foods at our meals?

Tomorrow, I’m going to play it smart ….. I’m going to van the first 30 miles of the route and then get out and ride 50 miles of the nicer section that runs along the river.

-ME

Day 36 July 19: Montana to Sofia

Today only 5 people, (Bill, Rick, John, Chantal and Polo), out of the 16 in our group rode the entire ride. It was an 80+ mile ride that started with very bad roads through hilly terrain through small mountain villages. Next up was an unrelenting 7 mile climb that meandered through the forested hillside that at least provided some much appreciated shade (This portion of road was in good shape and it was also very picturesque which helped). This was followed by a nice 7 mile downhill (there sometimes is a reward for hard work). I rode none of the above …… my ride started when the van let some of us off at the bottom of the big hill which marked the beginning of the river gorge. I thought the river gorge would consist of gently rolling hills that would be easy on my sore ankle …… I thought wrong! There were lots of hills to climb …… some of which were not of the gentle variety. According to my GPS, I climbed a total of 2500 feet in 30 miles. (I rode 45 miles but the last 15 miles into Sofia were relatively flat) It was also starting to get very hot by the time I arrived at the hotel. I can only imagine how bad the heat was for the people that started their ride in Montana. The approach into Sofia was not pleasant ….. you could see the smog haze over the city from many miles away. The traffic on the roadway also increased dramatically the closer I got to the city with large trucks belching black smoke into your face ….. not a particularly good smell.

Tomorrow we have a rest day in Sofia. From what I can gather, there’s not much of interest happening here.

-ME

Day 37 July 20: Rest Day – Sofia

If you’ve been reading my emails you may have gotten the impression that I’m having a miserable time and wish I was home. The truth is, in spite of the physical problems, I’m having a great time and wouldn’t choose to be anywhere else right now. I’ve had a lot of laughs whether riding the bike or in the van. There’s a lot of humor to be found in adversity.

One of the reasons I took this trip was to see how the former Soviet Satellite States have changed since the collapse of communism. There’s been some dramatic changes and it’s not always pretty but it’s been very educational for me. I wish everyone could have this experience.

Not much to say about today except everyone was thankful for a day off the bike. Most of us took a taxi into town this morning to see the sights ….. none were found. (but you can add another 3 churches to the list). Bill, Rick and I slipped into a 5-star hotel to sip a cappuccino and munch on some cookies before heading back to our hotel before noon.

Like most Eastern European hotels that we’ve visited, the air conditioning in our hotel rooms is not up to snuff so we have been supplied with brand new fans to help alleviate the heat.

This afternoon I lazed around and in the hotel pool, purchased another box of Vitamin “I” (Ibuprofen) at the local Pharmacy and generally just relaxed.

To make up for the lack of adequate air conditioning, the hotel is providing us with a free buffet dinner (how much do you want to bet that Pork is the featured dish?)

Some observations about European Hotels:

• Room size: OK, what’s with the dinky size of the rooms? In some rooms there wasn’t even enough space to put the luggage.
• Towels: Where do you use towels? ……. In the bathroom, yes? So why are there no towels in the bathroom? Instead, they place all the towels on the bed? When have you ever needed to use a towel while in bed?
• Towel warmers: OK, this is a good thing ….. we use them to dry our biking clothes after washing them in the sink.
• Wash cloths: Why no wash cloths? Don’t Europeans ever get dirty enough to scrub their skin? I can tell you that after biking in the rain, washing yourself with just your hands will not get you clean.
• Soap: Does Europe have a shortage of soap? ….. is it inordinately expensive? What’s with supplying a bar of soap that’s smaller than your thumb? It’s so small that you can’t grip it and since there’s no washcloth I am at a loss on how to efficiently use such a little thing. Some hotels don’t supply a bar of soap at all, instead there’s a dispenser for liquid soap in the shower …. I’m not fond of this.
• Showers: We’ve seen everything; a drain in the middle of the bathroom floor and a shower head that sprays over everything in the bathroom. (make sure you remove the toilet paper before showering) If a shower stall is provided; it’s so small you can’t turn around without bumping the faucet handles ….. usually scalding yourself in the process (that is if there’s even hot water) ….. and the water usually ends up in the middle of the bathroom floor anyway because the drains seldom work properly ….. aren’t there any building engineers over here?
• Beds: There are no standard sizes here. Most beds are of the single variety (if you want a double you push two singles together. I’m not that tall and I’ve slept in beds with my feet sticking over the end.
• Toilets: (If you’re easily grossed out, don’t read this one) Wow …. Never have I seen such a variety of toilets. The most interesting one I’ve encountered has, what I can only assume, is a built in inspection shelf. It’s a slightly indented platform before the main hole and when you poop it ends up on this shelf. When you flush, the water washes it off the shelf and into the hole. (kind of a waterfall affect) It works OK unless, of course, you have a heavy load in which case it remains where it is until you use the toilet brush (always provided) to move it along …. Wonder what genius thought this up?
• Toilet paper: Charmin it ain’t ……. Some of it has been nothing but corrugated cardboard.
• Air Conditioning: Almost always anemic …… aren’t there any building engineers over here?
• Sinks: The sinks are usually OK except there’s no drain plugs …… hard to wash your clothes in the sink without plugging the drain. And why no shelf space? …… there’s almost never any room to even put a shaving kit down.
• Toe Hazards: Every hotel over here has them. There’s always at least one raised area (most times many), where you are guaranteed to stub your toe. Where’s OSHA when you need them. Handicap accessible these hotels are not. ….. aren’t there any building engineers over here?
• Cold anything: Nothing is really served cold here ….. cool yes, but not cold …. And what is it about not having ice? You’re lucky if you get a couple of cubes in a glass.

Tomorrow’s 85 mile ride will take us to Koprivshtitsa.

-ME

Day 38 July 21: Sofia to Koprivshtitsa

An early start in order to beat the heat, mostly good roads and diminishing traffic as we wound our way through the hills of Bulgaria made today’s 67 mile ride to the mountain village of Koprivshtitsa a joy to ride. It was getting pretty toasty towards the end of the ride when we spotted a waterfall by the side of the road and Rick & I couldn’t resist ducking under for a quick, cold soaking ….. very refreshing.

Koprivshtitsa is a charming village nestled on top of a mountain. It’s much more prosperous and trendy than most other parts of Bulgaria that we have traveled through and I really enjoyed the ambiance, vitality and the sense of history that permeates the town. We were fortunate to be here on a Saturday night to witness a local Folk Festival. …… very fun and enjoyable. Dinner was on our own and we found an outdoor restaurant that offered us a great view from above the town. I had BBQ chicken ….. good stuff!

It was a great day!

Tomorrow’s 60 mile ride will take us to Plovdiv.

-ME

P.S. :There was an error in Day 36′s journal. There were actually 6 people that completed the total ride from Montana to Sofia. I mistakenly did not include Elizabeth in the group.

Day 39 July 22: Koprivshtitsa to Plovdiv

It was another good day on the bike for me. Unfortunately Tour Leaders Monica and Michele would probably not agree with me. We had a massive downhill towards the beginning of the ride and Michele warned that there would be potholes and we should take it easy going down. I thought I was being reasonable (for me) but I swerved to miss one pothole and ended up hitting another one. The result was I ruined the rims of both wheels. The front wheel was a little wobbly but I really did a number on the rear. I made, what’s supposed to be, a nice round rim flat in one section …… numerous spokes were broken … total loss. Michele, who was riding sweep today, gave me the wheel from his bike and I was able to get under way while he had to wait for the van to come back to give him a new wheel. Another day like today and I’ll probably be permanently banished to the van.

The rest of the ride was pretty fast and uneventful as we descended from the mountains to the plains and into Plovdiv. From what little I’ve seen so far, I’ve got a positive impression of this city of 400,000. It has a lively town square with the same characteristics that I like so much about European cities (no cars allowed) It seems we’re beginning to see a better side of Bulgaria than has been previously noted.

Unfortunately, this hotel has no Internet access so I have to trudge, with my computer, to a Internet Café down the street. I wouldn’t mind it but it’s very hot here right now. (See what hardships I must bare to give you much needed enlightenment?)

Tomorrow’s 74 mile ride will take us to Kurdzhali.

-ME

Day 40 July 23: Plovdiv to Kurdzhali

I enjoyed most of today’s 69 mile ride through the mountainous terrain that has been so common for us since entering Bulgaria. We knew before starting that it was going to be another very hot day but we climbed high enough in the morning hours so the heat wasn’t too bad once we reached the mountain ridge. When we’re riding on flat terrain there’s a lot of social interaction between we riders but climbing a mountain is strictly a solo affair. It was just me pedaling slowly uphill enjoying the countryside while my iPod was blaring tunes from on-bike speakers. Upon descending from the mountains the heat hit me like a blast furnace. It’s 105 degrees here in Kurdzhali and I really felt it during the last 15 miles of the ride. I was thankful for the numerous fresh mountain springs feeding road side water stations that were available for soaking the body and filling water bottles. …… couldn’t have made it without them.

It’s supposed to be 108 degrees in tomorrow’s destination city of Edirne, Turkey. It’s scheduled to be 87 miles ….. should be an interesting day.

-ME

Day 41 July 24: Kurdzhali to Edirne, Turkey

People who choose to go on these active vacations do so for a variety of reasons:

For some, it’s the challenge of pedaling every single inch through everything man, Mother Nature and chance can throw at you until the final destination is reached.

{As for me, I no longer feel the need to pedal every inch of the route. (I’ve been there, done that, on my previous bicycle journeys across the USA.) If this were one of my goals, I would have been very disappointed since I’ve been physically unable to ride for a substantial portion of this route.}

For others it’s for the cultural experience gained through active interaction with the people and places we visit each day.

{One of the major reasons I decided to do this trip was to gain insight as to what has happened to Eastern Europe upon the collapse of communism and how the various countries have adapted.}

And some of us revel in the spectacular natural beauty of the mountains, valleys, rivers, streams and plains as we pedal our way through the countryside.

{This is the best part of bicycling for me. There’s nothing like the great feeling of exhilaration I get while descending through a spectacular mountain gorge after a long climb.}

For most of us, it’s a combination of all the above that make bicycling the best way to travel. This is NOT a trip I would choose just for bike riding though ……. There’s way too much poverty and pollution. But for my personal education and experience, I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else right now.

I did not ride today. With the combination of my still sore ankle and the projected 108 degree heat, I decided to take a local bus to tonight’s destination city of Edirne, Turkey. (A few other exceedingly wise fellow travelers joined me)    

The great cigarette caper:

By taking the bus, ( I know what you’re thinking but, I did not share the bus with any chickens or goats ….. air conditioning didn’t work though), I got a firsthand look at how cigarette smuggling from Bulgaria into Turkey is accomplished: (I’m not sure how much tax is placed on cigarettes in Turkey but it must be substantial)

Besides we Americans, there were probably an additional 15 people on the bus as we left the station in Kurdzhali. As we approached the border with Turkey the bus stopped at a small Duty Free Shop. All the passengers got off the bus and went into the shop to stock up on mostly cigarettes. I’m assuming that a Duty Free shop can only sell a limited amount of merchandise to each customer and that each of our passengers bought cigarettes up to the limit allowed. Upon exiting the shop, the cigarette packs were taken out of the cartons and thrown into plastic garbage bags. The bags were then placed into the trunk of a waiting car. We then all got back onto the bus and continued our journey until stopping at the next Duty Free Shop where the above scenario was repeated. This action was repeated a total of five times before reaching the border with Turkey. After going through Passport Control and upon reaching Turkish Customs, the bus was directed into an inspection area. We were all ordered off the bus with all our belongings. All luggage, purses and containers were placed on long wooden tables for inspection. All the bus doors for passengers, luggage, engine, etc. were opened and a Turkish inspector carefully examined every inch of the bus looking for contraband. Finding nothing, he turned his attention to the passenger’s belongings. (We, being American Tourists, were not of interest to him) He inspected every purse, suitcase and bag. I even saw him open the top of a fruit juice container and look inside. We saw him confiscate a couple of packs of cigarettes but that was it. We were then allowed to get back on the bus and depart into Turkey. As soon we got a little way past the border area, the bus pulled over next to the car with the cigarettes in the trunk. All our passengers retrieved their cigarettes and got back into the bus. We had a few additional passengers however ….. The driver of the car and three innocent looking children. We assume they were window dressing to ensure that the car with the cigarettes would not be pulled over for inspection. (We were highly amused and entertained)

Today’s adventure illustrated, for me, the futility of sin taxes and how easy such taxes are to circumvent. …. What a waste of resources and time not to mention the total disrespect for the law such a tax engenders.

Tomorrow is our final rest day before reaching Istanbul. Edirne is a fairly large and very old, (there’s some evidence it’s existed in some form or another since 800B.C.), Turkish city. The hotel we’re staying out was constructed in the year 1524. (obviously, it’s been renovated a bit since then)

-ME

Day 42 July 25: Rest Day – Edirne, Turkey

I was awakened sometime around 5:30am this morning by loudspeakers calling all good Muslims to prayer. This ritual happens 5 times a day and I have yet to see anyone set down a prayer mat to pray to Allah.

As is usual on a rest day, there was a walking tour scheduled for this morning. Our Turkish Tour Guide, who’s named Sahli, walked us through the old town and through the “new” Mosque (“New” being a relative term because I believe he said the Mosque was completed in 1550.)

I spent most of the rest of the day relaxing or wandering around the marketplace and taking in the sights and sounds of our first Turkish city. It was over 100 degrees again today and I couldn’t get over the sight of seeing some of the women dressed head to toe in, what looked to be, very heavy coats. …….. If they were feeling the heat it didn’t show.

Tomorrow’s 80+ mile ride will take us to the town of Vize.

-ME

Day 43 July 26: Edirne to Vize

It looks like the heat wave that has been plaguing this area has finally broken. Temperatures were only in the high 80′s today and are projected to be even lower tomorrow. Unfortunately, our old nemesis, wind has roared back to take its place in tormenting we cyclists. We experienced head and cross winds with gusts as high as 40mph today. I was highly optimistic about today’s ride upon leaving the hotel. Smooth road and wide shoulders with the wind at our backs and we were hitting 22mph without working up a sweat. I remember think to myself “At this rate, we’ll be at the hotel in 4-hours …… Sweet! But then I saw it ….. the dreaded arrow directing us onto on new road. Suddenly, a fierce wind was whipping across us. The road surface also changed from smooth asphalt to Chip Seal (Tar and Rock). I now have found the ultimate torture road surface for a bad ankle ……… CHIP SEAL! It must set up a perfect harmonic vibration in the foot bones …. Not good ….. I, once again, became “Dan the van man” after about 27 miles.

This part of Turkey is mostly rolling farmland with some heavy industry, such as cement factories, thrown in. There wasn’t a lot to see today and I was quite content to view it from the van.

Tomorrow’s 100 mile ride will take us to Komkoy on the outskirts of Istanbul. It’s our last real ride of the trip and unfortunately, since Chip Seal roads are once again the prevailing road surface, I will ride the van.

-ME

Day 44 July 27: Vize to Komkoy

Well, today was the last real day of bike riding on the tour and as, I reported yesterday, I once again donned my “Dan in the van” persona. It was scheduled to be a 103 mile ride to our destination city of Komkoy located on the coast of the Black Sea. As a van rider I get the first look at the terrain the bike riders will be tackling and, while it was hilly and windy, it was a very doable ride for the first 85 miles. However, then we ran into the biggest Rock Quarry I have ever seen. There were many large trucks lumbering down each side of a very rough and narrow road. Michele, our driver and one of the tour leaders, took one look and said “We can’t let anybody bicycle through this”. He was right, it would have been very dangerous and fool hardy to attempt it. Even after passing the Quarry the roads were still very narrow with many blind corners and steep hills. It was decided to stop all the riders before reaching the Quarry and van them the rest of the way to the hotel. All riders agreed it was the correct decision.

Our hotel tonight features a spectacular view overlooking the Black Sea. ….. very nice!

Tomorrow we will bike 9 miles and catch a ferry to Istanbul.

-ME

Day 45 July 28: Komkoy to Istanbul

It was a fine day for riding the 9 miles up and over the hill from the Black Sea to our Ferry which was ported on the Bosphorus Straights. I’ve got to tell you, I was ecstatic not to have to bicycle into Istanbul (a city of around 12,000,000 and growing). A chartered Ferry is the only way to travel ….. we had the boat to ourselves and were relaxed and content with great views of the city we slowly made our way to the Golden Horn Straight near where our hotel is located. It’s a fabulous location that is easy walking distance to many monuments, museums, Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar.

I’ll be here, in Istanbul, for three more days before flying back home on August 1^st.

-ME

Day 46 July 29: Istanbul

Today we had our final walking tour of the trip. We visited the Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, St. Sophia Museum and the Topkapi Palace before having lunch at an outdoor café overlooking the Bosphorus. The Grand Bazaar is closed today, (Sunday), so I will probably wander around there tomorrow.

Tonight a family friend of Rick’s, who lives here in Istanbul, took us to dinner at an outdoor restaurant that sits high in the hills overlooking the Bosphorus. It offered spectacular views of the city under a full moon. We had a great discussion regarding Turkey’s future prospects and the challenges confronting its people.

-ME

Ankle Update:

I telephoned the duty nurse at Kaiser Permanente (My HMO), upon returning home and the conversation went something like this:

Me: “Hi, I twisted my ankle while in Eastern Europe about 5 weeks ago and it’s still bothering me quite a bit. I’m wondering if it’s more than a sprain and maybe I should have it checked out by a doctor?”

Nurse: “Tell me what treatment you’ve given it.”

Me: “Well ….. I was on a bicycle trip from St. Petersburg to Istanbul so I tried to keep it iced and elevated when the injury first happened but ice was a little hard to come by. I did keep an Ace bandage on it while walking about though”

Nurse: “A bicycle trip huh. …. Did you continue to ride?”

Me: “Well, as soon as the swelling went down a bit, I did ride and walk around until the ankle was too sore to continue.”

Nurse: Long pause ….. then a hint of a laugh. “Sooo …. You didn’t ice and elevate it four times a day and you continued to use and abuse it and you’re wondering why your ankle is still bothering you?”

Me: A little sheepishly. “Well …… yeah”

Nurse: “You’d have been much better off had you broken your ankle ….. the healing would be much quicker. A sprain can take months to fully heal. I can schedule an appointment to have it checked out but, from your description, I’m pretty sure it’s a sprain. Try to stay off it for a while, ice and elevate it 4 times a day if it’s swollen and take ibuprofen. If it doesn’t improve in 3 weeks call and make an appointment to have it checked out.”

I’ve actually been resting it the past few days (not much abuse I can do to it on an airplane) and it does feel much better now. Maybe I’ll rest it for another week before testing it out again.

Day 0 Astoria, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 25 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 1:40
Average Speed: 14 mph
Elevation Climb: 100 ft.
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Hello All,Once again, I have decided to bicycle across the USA and yet again I will regale a very select group of people with tales of my journey. (Don’t you regret giving me your email address?)For the next 50 days, I’ll be traveling from Astoria, OR to Portsmouth, NH. Today I met with the group that I will be bicycling with. There are 45 people that will be going the whole distance with me with another 20 or so riders traveling with us for portions of the ride. Joining me on this ride are Bill Weidenfeller, Joyce Marino, Tim & Kathryn Tolford and Dale Crockatt who are fellow veterans from my previous cross-country trip.This year, I will also be riding to help support Rails-to-Trails Conservancy (RTC) which is a worthy charitable organization dedicated to creating recreational trails. (They’ve been very successful in championing the conversion of old railway tracks to recreational use.) I suggest you check out their website at www.railtrails.org for background information.Joining me on “Team RTC” are the aforementioned Bill, Joyce, Tim, Kathryn, Dale and my new friend, Nancy Andreae.The RTC website plans to have a link to Bill’s website: www.bikingwithbill.blogspot.com , and on their “store” link they will have a place where one can make a donation to RTC in support of our cross country ride.Should you wish to make a donation by check, please send it to the following address:(In order to give credit to our group the check should note “Team RTC” in the memo section.)Eric Eden, VP Brand Strategy
Rails-to-Trails Conservancy
1100 17th Street, NW
10th Floor
Washington, DC 20036

After arriving and getting the bike re-assembled I, along with Don (MA) and Tom (NY), took the optional trip to the beach for the ceremonial tire dipping in the Pacific Ocean. Should have been easy right? …… After all, Astoria is only a few miles up the Columbia River from the Pacific Ocean. Just go west and you have to hit it…..it is rather big you know. Well…..we got lost. We did finally find the ocean but what should have been a 16-mile ride turned into a 25-mile ride…….this does not bode well for the state of my navigational skills as we start this 3700 mile journey.

Tomorrow is our first real riding day and we will bicycle from Astoria to St. Helens (about 69 miles).

-ME

Day 1 Astoria to St. Helens, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 70 miles
On-Bike Time: 4:40
Average Speed: 14.9mph
Elevation Climb: 3261 ft.
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Today’s 70 mile ride took us from Astoria to St. Helens, OR. It was cloudy and cool with a slight tailwind which made for a pleasant biking experience today.
There were two significant climbs but the slope wasn’t extreme so I managed to navigate them with a minimal of difficulty and the downhill’s were superb.
I arrived at our hotel around 1:00pm…..just in time for lunch (with the mandatory ice cream for dessert). We had a pasta and lasagna buffet for dinner tonight.(I’ve been informed that tomorrow night we’re scheduled to have Chinese food so I will have to investigate other alternatives to satisfy my superior taste buds when I get to Welches….maybe a good steak?)That’s about it for now…….I didn’t sleep well last night and I’m a bit tired so I think I’ll go to bed early.Tomorrows 75 mile ride will take us to Welches, OR.-ME

Day 2 St. Helens to Welches, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 78 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:29
Average Speed: 14.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 3284 ft.
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What a great day to be on a bike! We woke to partly cloudy skies, cool temperatures and a nice tailwind. We members of “Team RTC” donned our team jerseys and rode together most of the day. We followed Route 30 for the first 20 miles and were going 18-20mph without a lot of effort. We then left route 30 and crossed the Willamette River over the St. John’s Bridge into the village of St. John’s where our first SAG stop was set up. (We were less than a mile from where I used to live when I was going to school here back in……oh my god!…..was it really 30 years ago?) From there, we meandered down to the bike path that follows the Columbia River. It was really pleasant cruising near the river while chatting with friends, both new and old. After leaving the second SAG stop at about mile 40, a group of us made the wrong turn and ended up with a few “bonus miles” before realizing our error and backtracking to the correct route. It was about this time that we started our climb into the hills to reach our overnight destination of Welches. Our first real good look at the snow covered Mount Hood came around mile 50 near the town of Orient……what a spectacular sight…it really dominates the landscape. By the time we got to the town of Sandy at mile 60 our group was starting to feel the need for food…..did I mention that you have to eat often when you’re doing this kind of riding? We found a restaurant named Calamity Jane’s where it seems you can have anything you want as long as it has a burger patty in it. (Oh, you want a fillet of Sole? No problem……comes with a burger patty.) I decided to go with the cheeseburger & fries. I felt much better after eating and was able to ride the last 15 miles into the hotel without feeling the need for additional nourishment.Our hotel for tonight is named “Resort at the Mountain” and it is truly a resort….golf, tennis…. the works. My room has a full kitchen and a fireplace. I have a fire going as I’m typing this as it is rather cool here this evening.Dinner tonight was Chinese at the “Panda Panda” restaurant which is close to a mile walk from the hotel…..I did not partake in such foolishness. I instead went to the “The Tartan’s Pub & Steakhouse” here at the resort where I was joined by fellow rebel Diana (Santa Barbara, CA). We enjoyed fresh salmon with mashed potatoes and asparagus and a nice glass of Pinot Noir while seated outside overlooking the golf course and the surrounding mountains……Ah yes……it’s a tough life but someone’s got to do it.Life is good!Tomorrows 66 mile ride, which takes us to the Kah-nee-ta Resort, promises to be a much tougher day…..mucho hills!-ME

Day 3 Welches to KaNeeTa, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 68 miles
Bike Ride Time: 5:14
Average Speed: 13 mph
Elevation Climb: 5167 ft.
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It was another great day on the bike. We got an early start today….I think we were on the road by 6:45am. We were treated to an 11-mile 2500 foot climb to start the day. The scenery was very pleasant as we were surrounded by trees, ferns and various flowers but the temperature was a crisp 52 degrees and we were on a major highway with lots of traffic. By the time we reached the summit it was 45 degrees and I was definitely cold. The next 30 miles went like this:

Descend 1000′ in 4 miles, and then go back up 1000′ in 3 miles, descend 1200′ in 5 miles, ascend 800 feet in 3 miles and finally descend 1500 feet in 10 miles. The climbs weren’t really that hard….just long, and the downhill’s were a lot of fun. During the last 10 miles there was a drastic change in the topography. We went from the densely wooded forests of the Cascade Mountains to sparsely wooded high desert. The good news was it was much warmer and we were able to ditch our leg warmers and jackets at the SAG stop. The last 20 miles featured some more climbs and one really great curving descent to the Kah-Nee-Ta Resort where we are spending the night. Unfortunately, the hotel is located on a bluff and we had to negotiate a steep climb to reach our rooms. The hotel is very nice…..I’m pretty sure this is it for great lodgings…..after this it’s back to Great Western’s.

Today was a lot of work but I enjoyed it immensely.

Tomorrows 61 mile ride will take us to Prineville, OR.

-ME

Day 4 KaNeeTa to Prineville, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 61 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:38
Average Speed: 13.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 3458 ft.
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Another nice day to begin a ride……clear skies, cool temperature and not much wind. Upon leaving Kah-Nee-Ta, we encountered a herd of wild horses galloping on the plains near the road. What a magnificent sight they made. About 13 miles into the ride a group of us stopped to visit a Native American museum. It was fairly interesting but the road beckoned and we were soon on our way again. The terrain we traveled today was mostly dessert sage and scattered pine trees……and lots of climbing. I’m glad it was only a 61 mile day as my legs were feeling a little fatigued.

Tomorrows ride promises to be a very difficult leg of our journey…..117 miles with over 5000 feet of climb….ARGH!….makes my butt ache just thinking about it. In order to get an early start, some of us have decided to skip the official restaurant breakfast and instead go to the grocery store and purchase some fruit, cereal, muffins, etc. to eat before loading our luggage on the truck. We should be on the road by 5:30am.

-ME

Day 5 Prineville to John Day, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 118 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 8:14
Average Speed: 14.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 5869 ft.
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Our route today was easy…..even I would be hard pressed to do “bonus miles” today. Make a left out of the hotel onto Route 26 and make a right into tonight’s hotel 118 miles later. The scenery today was varied and mostly awesome. Our first climb of the day, to Ochoco Pass, was a gradual one through pine forests and lush green meadows….very nice. The 13 mile downhill after the climb was a joy. The next climb, to Keyes Summit, was a lot more of a grunt though. While climbing I kept hearing a squeaking sound. It took me a while to realize that my seat post mounted travel bag was rubbing against my rear tire…..no wonder I was going so slow. I ditched the bag in the van as soon as I could. Unfortunately, my camera and camcorder were in it so I could not take any pictures of the spectacular landscape I was traveling through. We had a long descent after Keyes Summit that followed a swift flowing river through a lush canyon. At one point I was treated to a view of the “Nike Tree”. (There’s a tree standing all alone by the side of the road where people have thrown all kinds of shoes in it’s branches …….. they look like fruit.)

Despite the great scenery, I was very happy to get to the hotel today……it was a long time in the saddle and I’m tired.

Tomorrow’s 81 mile ride to Baker City doesn’t promise to be much easier than today’s ride…..lots of climbing.

-ME

Day 6 John Day to Baker City, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 82 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:25
Average Speed: 12.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 5039 ft.
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Today, I thought I would take a little time to let you know what the typical daily routine is like out here on the road.

Today was a tough day, (lots of hills and it’s hard to recover from yesterdays 117 mile day), so an early start was in order.

5:45am – Load luggage in the truck

6:00am – Have breakfast

Today’s breakfast was a buffet at a restaurant down the street from the hotel. I had bacon, potatoes, scrambled eggs a blueberry muffin and orange juice. It’s WAY too early for me to be remotely hungry but I know I must force it down, as I will soon need the energy.

After breakfast, it’s time to ride. Today’s ride was another scenic treat. I think the part of Oregon we’re traveling through has the most consistently beautiful countryside I’ve ever ridden through. Today we climbed and descended three pine covered mountain passes before finally rolling into today’s stop in Baker City 82 miles later.

We had two SAG stops, (supported rest stops), today. The first one was set-up around 29 miles into the ride. I filled my water bottles and ate a banana, some orange slices, a hand full of pretzels and a few cookies. I also grabbed some granola bars to eat while on the bike between SAG stops. The second and final SAG stop occurred at mile 59 and my intake of food was almost identical to the previous one. I reached Baker City around 1:30pm and a group of us spotted a Sports Bar & Grill so we stopped for lunch. I had a bacon cheeseburger with fries…..and it was good. Upon arrival at the hotel, there’s time to shower and relax for a few hours before “Route Rap” (where we are given instructions for tomorrows ride) and dinner. Dinner tonight was another buffet at a nearby restaurant. I had Fettuccini Alfredo, a piece of chicken, a baked potato and some mixed vegetables. After dinner, Joyce, Bill and I went out for Ice Cream. (A necessary food group for we bicyclists)

I’ll probably be in bed around 10:00pm tonight. We don’t eat breakfast until 6:30am tomorrow.

Tomorrows 83 mile ride to Ontario, OR promises to be a much easier ride. According to the map, it’s mostly downhill…..YAY!

-ME 

Day 7 Baker City to Ontario, OR

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 84 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:12
Average Speed: 16.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 2293 ft.
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As promised, today’s 84 mile ride into Ontario, OR featured a long gentle downhill. I took a leisurely pace and didn’t really put a lot of effort into the first 60 miles. The temperature has really started to climb during the past couple of days and it was very hot, (in the 90′s), during the last 20 miles of today’s journey. We have a large group, (around 60 riders), with varying degrees of riding ability and we can get pretty spread out on long mileage days. One rider got in at 5:00pm today which means he was out in the hot sun almost 4 hours longer than I was. He collapsed during Route Rap and they had to take him to the hospital. They need to cool him down and hydrate him but I think he’ll be OK. The sun combined with strenuous exercise can be brutal if you don’t watch it.

Today’s ride was fairly easy but it was also the least scenic of all the rides to date. Gone were the pine forests and lush green meadows. Instead, we were treated to barren rock, sage brush and, oh yes, a pair of cement plants……one working and one abandoned.

I’m now sporting, (now don’t get jealous), a helmet tan. Helmet tans are tan lines that form when the sun shines through the air vents of the helmet. The effect is very attractive……it should be all the fashion rage next year.

Dinner tonight is at Sizzler…..oh joy. After that, I think a well-deserved ice cream is in order. (hmmm …. maybe I’ll have them place a chunk of pie under it)

We crossed into the Mountain Time Zone today so we’re now 1 hour ahead of “Real Time”.

Tomorrow’s 62 mile ride will take us to Boise, I’D where we will receive our first, much deserved, rest day.

-ME

Day 8 Ontario, OR to Boise, ID

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 65 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:40
Average Speed: 14 mph
Elevation Climb: 1778 ft.
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There’s not much to say about today’s ride. It was a fairly easy 65 miles and I didn’t have to put much effort into it. We crossed into Idaho about a mile into the ride. Most of the ride was through farmland planted with fields of corn, potato’s and wheat. It was cool early but it soon warmed up and it wasn’t long before it got hot. The last 10 miles of the ride were through the outlying residential area of Boise. We stopped in the small town of Hyde Park for lunch at about 11:30am. I had a pepperoni pizza and it really hit the spot (Our hotel was only 3 miles away so I didn’t have to worry about riding on a full stomach). Upon reaching the hotel, I did laundry, attended Route Rap, went out and had a beer with my friends then we went to dinner at Perkins. I had soup and Cajun chicken with a baked potato. For dessert I had apple pie alamode.

Tomorrow is a rest day and after 8 straight days of riding, I welcome the respite. I’m not sure what I’m going to do yet. The only thing I have to do is clean the bike.

-ME

Day 9 Rest Day – Boise, ID

Even though it’s a rest day I was up by 6:00am. I took a stroll to downtown Boise stopped in a coffee shop and had a Latté and Scone. I then wandered back to the hotel and had some fresh fruit for breakfast.
 

I’ve put a few miles on the bike during the past 8 days and it was in desperate need of a cleaning so I did that after eating.

A group of us then walked into town and wandered around. Boise is a nice clean town….plenty of shops and outdoor cafes and it’s very walkable. We had lunch (Fish & Chips for me) and then found a Cold Stone store for the mandatory ice cream. (The ice cream was also needed to cool us down because it’s close to 100 degrees here today.)

For dinner, a group of 8 of us went to “The Melting Pot” a fondue place….GREAT meal….GREAT friends…..what fun!

(As you can tell, our lives revolve around the search for food.)

It’s been a good day of rest.

Tomorrows 50 mile ride will take us to Mountain Home, ID. It should be a fairly easy day and we should be able to beat the heat.

-ME

Day 10 Boise to Mountain Home, ID

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 50 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:30
Average Speed: 15 mph
Elevation Climb: 1270 ft.
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Today’s 50 mile ride took us to Mountain Home, ID. Most of the ride was spent on Interstate 84. It was fairly boring….not much to look at, just plains full of Sage Brush. The only excitement was dodging the truck tire debris on the shoulder of the freeway. A lot of riders got flats today because they weren’t able to avoid the small wires sticking out of the rubber remnants. This was such a short day that most everyone was at the hotel by noon.

Tomorrows 97 mile ride (so much for “easy” days) will take us to Twin Falls, ID.

-ME

Day 11 Mountain Home to Twin Falls, ID

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 100 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:30
Average Speed: 15.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 2867 ft.
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It was a long mileage day today, so we loaded our luggage in the truck at 5:45am, had breakfast and were out on the road by 6:30am. The day started out cloudy and fairly cool and we were cheered that we wouldn’t have to ride 100 miles in extreme heat. We had a few sprinkles starting out but the threat of rain soon passed. The bicycle gods were really smiling on us because we even had a tailwind for most of the ride. The scenery was also greatly improved over yesterdays ride. We rode long gently rolling hills through farmlands planted with various crops. We passed by numerous stockyards that reminded my senses of those heady days bicycling in western Kansas a couple of years ago. Ah yes, there really is nothing like the sweet perfume of “Ode de Manure”. The highlight of the day was riding through the canyons by the Snake River. Right outside of Twin Falls there’s a bridge that crosses the Snake River Canyon that affords fantastic canyon vistas. It is near this spot that Evil Kneival attempted to jump 1 mile across the canyon on his motorcycle…..what an idiot.

Even though it was 100 miles, the conditions and scenery made for a fairly easy ride today. (my butts still sore though)

Dinner tonight was at the Golden Corral……I love this restaurant ……..the clientele that frequent this establishment make me look skinny by comparison.

Tomorrows 38 mile ride to Burley, ID …… WHAT!……38 miles?…doesn’t sound right but that’s all we have to ride tomorrow. I’ll probably take the optional ride to the waterfalls and there’s also a scavenger hunt (If road kill is on the item list it should be an easy one to find…..possum, skunk, birds, snakes, deer….they’re all well represented here)

It should be a fun, relaxing day.

-ME

Day 12 Twin Falls to Burley, ID

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 43 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:13
Average Speed: 13.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 1581 ft.
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Today’s ride was a short 43 mile jaunt to Burley, ID. We Rails-to-Trails team members rode together as we passed by lots more Potato and Alfalfa fields but the highlight of today’s journey was Shoshone Falls located just outside Twin Falls. We were able to ride down into the canyon and got a great view of the falls…..well worth the “bonus miles”.

Tonight we’re staying in the town of Burley. When asked what Burley was famous for, a local man answered that Burley used to be known for its’ fine prostitution establishments but now there’s a cheese factory that we can visit…….. Hmmmm……..times have not changed for the better.

As mentioned in my last email, (I know you have them all memorized don’t you?), there was a scavenger hunt today and I was a member of Team RTC (Rails-to-Trails). We had a face-off with one other team and we lost in a close decision…..was funny though.

Tomorrows ride to Blackfoot, ID. is 110 miles. I sure hope we have favorable winds.

-ME

Day 13 Burley to Blackfoot, ID

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 112 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 7:10
Average Speed: 15.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 3372 ft.
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An early start was on order today as we needed to ride 112 miles to Blackfoot, ID. It was a clear day and it wasn’t projected to get very hot or windy …..my kind of day! The first 30 miles of the ride were quite pleasant as we were able to chat while riding three across on little traveled roads. The second 30 miles featured well irrigated farmlands planted with potato’s, wheat and Sugar Beats. During the third 30 miles we stopped in the town of Aberdeen for our daily ice cream fortification. The small towns around here look like a Neutron Bomb hit them…..there’s few people to be seen on the streets. During the last 20 miles my legs and butt were sore so I put my head down and made for the hotel at a pretty fast pace.

Dinner tonight was a catered outdoor affair that featured some fabulous BBQ chicken and other fixings…..an assortment of scrumptious desserts were also offered……a very nice change from the bland buffets we usually eat at.

Tomorrow we have another of those small mileage days…….34 miles to Idaho Falls. We’re all trying to figure out what to do when we finish the ride…..we’re told there isn’t much to see in town.

-ME

Day 14 Blackfoot to Idaho Falls, ID

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 35 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 2:10
Average Speed: 15.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 450 ft.
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Today’s massive 35 mile ride took us to Idaho Falls. Fair weather again greeted us as we moseyed out of the hotel at about 8:30am. I rode with our team of Joyce, Bill, Tim, Kathryn, Nancy and Dale. (Dale joined the ride yesterday and will be with us to Sioux Falls….he rode a portion of my 2004 cross country ride so it was good to see him again.)

The ride was relatively flat and quick…..nothing more than a Sunday morning ride through the farmlands of Idaho. We arrived at our destination in time for Sunday brunch. Our hotel is located across the street from the Snake River Park, which is quite nice. I had plenty of time to stroll around the river this afternoon. It was a good relaxing day.

Tomorrows 88 mile ride to Jackson, WY. will be much more taxing….the mountains are back. We’ll be climbing into the Teton’s so I’m in for some tough steep climbs. I think the highest pass we’ll cross tomorrow tops out at 8400 feet.

Stay tuned for more moans and groans.

-ME

Day 15 Idaho Falls. ID to Jackson, WY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 90 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 7:09
Average Speed: 12.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 5876 ft.
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WOW!…..What a day.

It was an early start for the 90 mile day to Jackson, WY. and the weather was once again good. The winds were calm when we started but we were soon bedeviled by headwinds as we gradually ascended to our first SAG Stop at mile 25. We began our assault on the Teton mountain passes when we started the first of our climbs to Pine Creek Pass. On the way up, we we’re treated to some of the most spectacular scenery imaginable. We passed lush meadows filled with wildflowers, crossed mighty rivers and canyons…..all I can say is Wow! The last 4-5 miles to the top of the pass were fairly steep (about a 6% grade) and I was pretty tired after reaching the top at mile 59. I remember thinking to myself “and this was the easy pass……Oh crap”.

After a great 9 mile 1700 foot descent from Pine Creek Pass, we stopped in the town of Victor (Population 840) for some much needed healthy nourishment, (in other words, I had a milkshake), before beginning our ascent to Teton Pass our second mountain pass of the day. At mile 70 we passed into Wyoming and began to climb ….. gradually at first….then steeper…..and steeper…..the last 4 miles of the climb were at a grade of between 10-13% to an altitude of 8400 feet…….Mercy!……I’ve never had a harder climb. I had to stop and rest 4 times before reaching the summit. But, joy of joy, whatever goes up must go down………5 miles……10% grade …… 2000 feet ……. nirvana! I set a personal best bike speed record of 58.3 mph going down that hill……Wow…I wanna do that again!

From the bottom of the hill it was an 8 mile flat ride into Jackson, our residence for tonight. After dinner, (pizza), Tim, Kathryn and I took the shuttle into town. Jackson is a neat upscale tourist town bustling with people and everything cowboy (I think this is going to be a theme throughout our journey’s in Wyoming)

It’s getting late and we have a 6:00am loading tomorrow so I’m off to bed.

Tomorrows 88 mile ride will take us to Dubois, WY…….more hills…..more groans.

-ME

Day 16 Jackson to Dubois, WY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 89 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:59
Average Speed: 14.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 4619 ft.
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I’m watching a stagecoach mosey on by Main Street in front of the Stagecoach Motor Inn as I am writing this email. The air is crackling with the sound of firecrackers as the locals of Dubois, (population 940) celebrate the 4th of July. I’ve got a feeling the folks in these here parts take their fireworks seriously……there goes my getting an early nights sleep. I hear tell there’s even a Square Dance being held at the Rustic Pines Saloon.

It was a great day on the bike as we traveled the 89 miles to Dubois. Winds and weather were once again favorable. The first 40 miles featured a slow gradual climbing through meadows lushly painted with various shades of green and brown. As we looked to our left we were afforded extraordinary views of the Grand Teton Mountains as they rose majestically into the sky….a truly awe inspiring sight. At mile 40 we began our long climb to the summit of Tagwotee pass (9,658 feet) which also is the location of the Continental Divide. The ascent was long but not too hard…..nothing like yesterdays horrendous climb and the last 30 miles into the hotel were mostly downhill. Unfortunately, there were several miles of road construction, which put a damper on what would have been a great downhill. As we descended the terrain changed very quickly from lush forest to brown high desert.

Coming into Dubois we ran smack dab into the middle of their 4th of July parade. I think the entire population of the town participated. There were fire trucks spewing water into the air and onto those spectators that strayed too close. There was Lots of noise from firecrackers and sirens as the parade wound down Main Street. We fit right in as we were all wearing our red, white and blue ABB jerseys.

Ah….small towns can be fun……It’s been a good day.

For tomorrows 79 mile ride to Riverton, WY, we will continue to descend through most of the day…….should be an easy day.

Lot’s of riders are doing web sites and blogs. If you’re interested in reading someone else’s perspective of the ride along with their pictures, you may wish to visit the sites listed below:http://www.bikingwithbill.blogspot.com/

http://www.anniesbigbikeadventure.blogspot.com/

http://www.ridejimride.blogspot.com/

http://sarabikes.blogspot.com/

http://sarahsride.net/-ME

Day 17 Dubois to Riverton, WY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 81 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:30
Average Speed: 17.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 1532 ft.
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It was a “gravity day” where we “big boned” people have a measure of revenge on the scrawny contingent. It was 81 miles of rolling downhill to Riverton and I didn’t have to put a lot of effort into pedaling today. I was at our hotel before 11:30am with plenty of time to relax and do my laundry. We are back in high desert country so there wasn’t a lot to see today…..just rolling hills and sage brush. They’re having a water shortage here so that told us not to flush the toilet at the rest area…..ugh…gross. Dinner tonight is at the Golden Corral….about a mile down the road….not sure whether to walk or shuttle.

Tomorrows 120 mile ride will take us to Casper where we will have our 2nd rest day…….gonna need the rest after 120 friggin miles!

-ME

Day 18 Riverton to Casper, WY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 121 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 7:23
Average Speed: 16.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 2785 ft.
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“Home, home on the range”

[Home? ..... Would that be like the town of Moneta we passed through with a population of 10? (According to the sign proudly displayed at the edge of town)

"Where the deer and the antelope play"

[Well we did see deer and antelope today but they weren't playing. They were lying around looking at the stupid humans roll by on their bicycles.]

“Where seldom is heard, a discouraging word”

[It's obvious the writer of this song was not among a group of 60 bicyclists riding 120 miles through the range]

“and the skies are not cloudy all day”

[sheesh! ..... What's wrong with a little cloud cover? It's sure better than having parboiled cyclists.]

It was another perfect weather day……not too hot and we had a tailwind for most of the day.

I didn’t have a lot of energy during today’s ride and I really struggled especially between the 30-60 mile mark. Tim and Kathryn were riding with me and they made sure I didn’t lag too far behind. I had my first flat tire of the trip coming out of the 2nd SAG Stop. Tim helped me repair it and when he got on his bike he found he also had a flat. He repaired his tire and we proceeded to “Hells Half-Acre” at around mile 77. “Hell’s Half-Acre” is a location where the Indians would stampede a herd of buffalo over a cliff and to their deaths on the canyon floor. There’s also a restaurant there where we thought we could get a bite to eat. Unfortunately, the restaurant is now closed. The next place where we could get food was the “Tumble Inn” in Powder River (population 40) at mile 82. Nope…..the Tumble Inn is also no longer in business. We were able to get a bite to eat at the gas station-grocery store though.

The terrain we passed through today was all high desert scrub with not a lot of interest to see.

Tomorrow is a rest day in Casper and I can really use a day off the bike.

-ME

Day 19 Rest Day – Casper, WY

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 1,372 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 93:46
Average Speed: 14.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 54,541 ft.
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Today is a rest day so I slept in until 6:30am. After rising I cleaned my bike then had breakfast with Tim, Kathryn and Joyce. (It was a real sit down breakfast with menus and everything)

After breakfast we decided to take a walk into downtown Casper to see the sights. This did not take long because, as it turns out, there are no sights to see in downtown Casper. Yep, Casper stands tall with Erie and St. Joseph as towns with a whole lot of nothing to offer. After returning to the hotel I took a stroll on the pedestrian/bike path that parallels the North Platte River…..it was pleasant. I then took a nap and woke up in time for dinner. A group of us went to a steakhouse and had a fine meal.

It was a much needed and relaxing day off.

Tomorrows 106 mile ride, (they sure are piling on the high mileage days), will take us to Lusk, WY.

-ME

Day 20 Casper to Lusk, WY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 108 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:20
Average Speed: 17 mph
Elevation Climb: 3139 ft.
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Today’s 108 mile ride took us from Casper to Lusk, WY. The weather was for us once again. We were blessed with cloudy skies, cool temperatures and little wind. It was a good day on the bike. My legs were feeling good and I was able to pedal at a good pace so the miles got chewed up fairly quickly.

We’re still in the high desert but the sage has given way to wide expanses of rolling grassland.

We’re staying in “The Covered Wagon Motel” in Lusk (population 1470) and we were fortunate to witness the annual “Rawhide Parade” while here. Besides the usual parade floats and such, there were Indians riding horses bareback through the streets, hotel parking lots….actually, the rode anywhere they wished……these small town parades are fun. As I write this a light rain is falling and it’s very cool outside. I hope it clears up by morning.

Tomorrows 92 mile ride will take us out of Wyoming and into Hot Springs, South Dakota.

-ME

Day 21 Lusk, WY to Hot Springs, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 95 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:52
Average Speed: 16.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 2746 ft.
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It was a wet and dreary morning when we, (Keith, Bill and I), started our 95 mile ride from Lusk, WY to Hot Springs, SD. In an effort to get an early start, we decided to forgo the restaurant and instead opted for a continental breakfast at the hotel. There was a light rain falling steadily as we left Lusk behind us. At one point we tried to keep pace with a herd of horses galloping by us in a field by the road……the horses won….neat sight. Shortly after this event the rain stopped though we could see ominous black clouds following close behind us. We managed to allude anymore rain until the final 5 miles of our journey when we were once again were treated to light rain showers.

We crossed into South Dakota at mile 56 and within 10 miles the terrain took a dramatic turn. Gone were the endless barren plains and in its place, we saw stands of pine trees as we started climbing into the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Upon arriving in Hot Springs, I ate lunch, cleaned up and had a “blizzard” at the local Dairy Queen. I then visited the “Mammoth Site” here in Hot Springs. Back in 1974, a developer was bulldozing a plot of land when he uncovered some Mammoth bones. He donated the land to a non-profit organization for excavation. It seems there used to be a sink hole at that location a long time ago and animals used to get caught in it and die. They’ve erected a building over the site and made it possible for tourists to walk inside the dig, They’ve uncovered 55 Mammoth skeletons so far and they have many more years of excavation ahead of them…….very interesting site.

Tonight, after dinner, we had the infamous T-Shirt swap….I actually enjoyed it this time around as everyone was in high spirits.

During tomorrows 72 mile ride to Rapid City, SD. ,we will continue to traverse the Black Mountains via roads that will take us past the Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse Monuments. It should be a fun and interesting day.

-ME

Day 22 Hot Springs to Rapid City, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 76 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:46
Average Speed: 13.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 5830 ft.
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Today was “monument day” as we journeyed 76 miles through the Black Hills of South Dakota.

We woke to cool temperatures and cloudy skies that were heavily laden with moisture. We ate a hearty breakfast to fortify us for the hard hill climbing that lay ahead of us. The terrain was passed through was very hilly open grassland dotted with pine trees. We saw lots of Prairie Dog colonies as we swiveled our heads trying to spy the allusive buffalo that are purported to range this area. (I never saw one……others did).

It took 3 hours to complete the first 36 miles to the Crazy Horse Monument. This monument is much more massive then the more famous Mt. Rushmore monument and will be truly magnificent when complete……sometime in the far future. Only the head is complete and since it is a private enterprise they rely on donations and admission fees to fund the excavation. They have a great interpretive center set up with lots a Native American artifacts……definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area.

Next up was Mount Rushmore a mere 15 miles up the road. Based on what others have told me about it, I wasn’t expecting much but I was pleasantly surprised……it’s really impressive.

We were getting pretty hungry by this time so we cruised (nice fast downhill) down to the town of Keystone where I devoured a buffalo burger that would serve to power me through the final 20 miles.

I received a pleasant surprise when Steve Bloom (my friend and Joyce’s brother) showed up at the hotel to visit and ride with us tomorrow.

Tomorrows 57 mile ride will take us to Wall, SD. It should be a fairly easy and relaxing day.

-ME

Day 23 Rapid City to Wall, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 58 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:50
Average Speed: 15.1 mph
Elevation Climb: 2007 ft.
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Today’s 58 mile ride took us to Wall, SD (population 840), home of the famous Wall Drug Store.

It was a clear, sunny day today with temperatures expected to be in the high 90′s.

With the addition of Steve Bloom, (I mentioned him in yesterdays email…..you, of course, have them all memorized don’t you?), our group of alumni from the 2004 Cross Country Challenge now numbered 7 as we started our way at a leisurely pace to Wall, SD. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much of interest to see along the way. Almost 2/3 of today’s ride was on Interstate 90….not a fun place to ride a bike. Toward the end of the ride, highway construction was being performed and the freeway was cut to a single lane. We attempted to ride on the newly laid pavement but it was too soft and the tar was gumming up our tires so the construction crew told us to share the single open lane with the auto and truck traffic……not a good idea…..the lane was very narrow and there was no shoulder. An RV took pity on us and blocked the traffic behind us as we took up the whole lane while going up a mile long hill at about 12 mph. Needless to say the traffic that was backed up behind the RV were none to happy with us but what could we do? There was no place else for us to go and it was getting very hot. By the time we got to the hotel my tires were so gummed up that I decided to replace them rather than attempting to clean off the goo.

It wasn’t a great day on the bike.

Tomorrows 117 mile ride to Pierre (State Capital) promises to be one of our most brutal rides to date. Long mileage coupled with sharply rolling hills and temperatures expected to reach 100 degrees will make this a very challenging ride. Load time tomorrow is 5:15am. Some of us plan to eat breakfast in our room prior to loading our luggage in the truck so that we can get out on the road faster in an attempt to beat the greatest part of the heat. (It was only yesterday that it was so cool that we were wearing jackets while riding.)

-ME

Day 24 Wall to Pierre, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 85 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:36
Average Speed: 15 mph
Elevation Climb: 2450 ft.
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It was BRUTAL! I did not complete today’s 117 mile ride to Pierre, SD. I decided it was in my best interest to bail at mile 85 and have the SAG wagon take me the rest of the way to the hotel.

I knew we were in for a rough day when:

• I turned on the cold water in the hotel this morning and it came out hot….it just doesn’t cool off at night around here.
  
• I was riding with Keith (IA) today and he had 3 flat tires before we had finished 20 miles of riding.
  
• We had crosswinds of 20-25 mph after mile 30.
  
• Temperatures rose fast and kept climbing to 105 degrees (I think it set a local record…….lucky us)
  
• There were lots of rolling hills to traverse…. Have I told you that I really despise rolling hills?
  
• No trees, no cloud cover, no shade of any type. It’s really barren out here…..nothing but grassland and hay fields.
  

We had two people taken to the hospital today due to heat. (they’re fine) Many others are suffering from minor dehydration.

Two people fell (nothing serious……a little road rash and bruising)

I’ll be taking a few days off the tour across the USA to attend family matters, but never fear……I will endeavor to enrich your mundane lives with more tales of my exploits when I return to the tour on July 17th when I’ll be riding from Sioux Falls, SD to Worthington, MN.

-ME

Day 25 Pierre to Chamberlain, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: miles
On-Bike Ride Time:
Average Speed: mph
Elevation Climb: ft.
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-ME

Day 26 Chamberlain to Mitchell, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: miles
On-Bike Ride Time:
Average Speed: mph
Elevation Climb: ft.
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-ME

Day 27 Mitchell to Sioux Falls, SD

Daily Stats:
Mileage: miles
On-Bike Ride Time:
Average Speed: mph
Elevation Climb: ft.
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-ME

Day 28 Rest Day – Sioux Falls, SD

-ME

Day 29 Sioux Falls, SD to Worthington, MN

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 73 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:22
Average Speed: 13.6 mph
Elevation Climb: 1909 ft.
———————————————————–

OK, I’m back with you and am on the road again.
I was warmly welcomed back into the fold by my fellow riders today as we rode the 73 miles from Sioux Falls, SD to Worthington, MN. The heat wave in which this region has been mired has abated somewhat and heat wasn’t a major factor today…….but the wind insisted on making things difficult for us. It started benign enough…..for the first 9 miles we rode on a bike path that meandered by a river. It was a very pleasant park with wide swaths of grass and trees. Too soon the park was a distant memory as we left Sioux Falls behind and found ourselves riding through the farmland of Eastern South Dakota and Minnesota. As we headed east an unrelenting 20-25 mile wind slammed us from the north. Ron (CA), said it was like a riding 60 miles uphill……I have to agree with him…..it was hard pedaling. We passed acres and acres of corn and soy beans. We hated the soy beans as they don’t block any wind. Corn was slightly better as the tall stocks absorb a part of the wind. The best wind block of all was farm houses and barns……passing by them brought instant, but very temporary, relief.

Despite the wind, I felt strong today. The 4 days off from bicycling allowed my legs and butt to recover.

Tomorrows 102 mile flat ride will take us to Mankato, MN. I sure hope the wind is more favorable.

-ME

Day 30 Worthington to Mankato, MN

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 103 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:37
Average Speed: 15.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 1266 ft.
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Today’s 103 mile ride took us to Mankato, MN. It was another day of corn and soy beans……acres and acres…..as far as the eye could see. We were treated to head and cross winds today though the wind was much lighter than yesterday so the pedaling was much easier. It was also warm today but the stifling heat that characterized last weeks riding seems to have disappeared for now.

I didn’t slather on enough butt butt’r today so I was standing up a lot towards the end of the ride.

Hmmm……..It occurs to me that some of you readers may not know about the joys of butt butt’r. Well, I’m here to enlighten you. When you spend a long hours on the saddle of your bike day after day you can develop sores on some sensitive parts of your anatomy. You can purchase a crème to help alleviate, (though you can never eliminate), the problem. A common brand of crème is named “Chamois Butt’r”……. but who are they kidding? It should have been named Butt Butt’r.

Tomorrow we have another 100 mile ride that will take us to Rochester, MN.

-ME

Day 31 Mankato to Rochester, MN

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 102 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 7:55
Average Speed: 12.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 3382 ft.
————————————————————

Weather-wise we had it all on our 102 mile ride to Rochester, MN today; headwinds and crosswinds, (Is it too much to ask for a tailwind once in a while?), rain, hail, lightning and thunder.

The temperature was cool and the skies were cloudy and threatening rain when we started our ride this morning. We ran into our first obstacle just after leaving the hotel……road construction …. a couple of miles of loose gravel and dirt …. my mountain biking skills served me well. Bill and I then slogged our way through heavy head and crosswinds to the first SAG stop at mile 30. I felt we were lucky that we weren’t being rained on….such luck wouldn’t last much beyond the first SAG stop. Bill and I could see the ominous signs from miles away….a big black sky….and we were headed directly for it. There was a strange calming of the wind as we approached the storm. Bill and I stopped to take a picture of the cloud formation as it quickly overtook us. I’ve never seen anything like it …. The horizon took on a dark green hue and above it the clouds were so dark they looked purple. Then the wind started to blow, closely followed by rain, thunder and lightning. Bill and I hastened to put on our rain jackets but we were too late…..we were soaked within seconds. We got back on our bikes and attempted to ride to find shelter but we were quickly forced off our bikes by the ferocity of the wind and rain that was quickly turning to hail. A pick-up truck happened by and the driver rolled down her window and asked if we needed help. When we explained our situation she directed us to seek shelter in a barn a quarter mile down the road. We put our heads down and slogged up the road until finally finding sanctuary in the barn. We weren’t alone …… 6 other bicyclists from our group were already there. We remained in that barn for about an hour waiting for the lightning to disappear. (we’re willing to ride in the rain but lightning is another story). We left as soon as we thought it was safe but we didn’t get a mile down the road before another burst of lightning strikes forced us to once again seek shelter. As you can imagine, it’s not every day that a remote farm family has a group of soggy bicyclists knock at their door to ask for shelter from the storm. They opened their barn / garage for us, brought us bottled water, supplied us with chairs and showed us their pet chinchillas and 2 week old puppies. Such generosity to total strangers serves to reinforce my faith in humanity. Upon abatement of the lightning we again proceeded on our way. The rain was still falling and the wind was still blowing against us but at least the danger of becoming a crispy critter was over. It was a long slow and tiring day but I physically felt good.

Tomorrows 89 mile day will take us to La Crosse, WI (Gee…..it didn’t take us long to cross Minnesota) I stayed in La Crosse on the Mississippi River Ride last summer…..I think it’s best known for having the worlds largest 6-pack of beer. (if you gotta be known for something …..)

-ME

Day 32 Rochester, MN to La Crosse, WI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 90 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:00
Average Speed: 15 mph
Elevation Climb: 3225 ft.
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Today was a good day on the bike. It was a 90 mile ride that took us out of the state of Minnesota and into La Crosse, WI. We woke to a hazy sky, light wind and mild temperatures …. hallelujah! ……. Quite a contrast from the severe weather of yesterday. The highlight of the ride was riding the Root Bike Path, (A Rails-to-Trails project), as it meandered through corn fields and lush meadows along the Root River. We talked to a local rider who told us that we were riding the best bike trail in Minnesota. Shortly after the second SAG stop, I was in the lead with Bill, Ted and Jon following when I realized I had no idea where we were ….. We were definitely off the designated route. I then spotted a sign indicating that La Crosse was 19 miles down the road. Hmmmm…… That’s closer than the route sheet indicated. We took a vote ….. It was unanimous …… We would not backtrack ….. We would take the alternate route. We chose wisely …… We cut out 2 miles …… we completely missed a bunch of rolling hills and a very steep (12%) 1 mile climb. Boy, were we happy.

The Rails-to-Trails staff has been busy lately. They’ve set Bill up to do several interviews with the local news media of the cities we are passing through. (Bill had his picture on the front page of the Worthington, MN paper recently). Today, as we stopped to take a picture of the “Welcome to Wisconsin” sign, Bill got a call from a representative from Channel 19. They wanted to interview him for tonight’s evening news. The camera crew met us at the sign, did the interview and took video of all of us riding down the street. So, I saw myself on the local evening news tonight …. pretty cool.

Tomorrows 92 mile ride will take us to Wisconsin Dells, WI.

-ME

Day 33 La Crosse to Wisconsin Dells, WI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 95 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:53
Average Speed: 13.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 2624 ft.
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Today’s 95 mile ride to us from La Crosse to Wisconsin Dells. It was cool and overcast as we started today’s ride and it remained that way all day. The highlight of the day was riding on the Elroy Sparta Trail which, I think, was the first old railway conversion in the country championed by Rails-to-Trails. It was a 32 mile tree canopied path that runs from Sparta to Elroy. The path was unpaved but well groomed so our road bikes did not have a lot of difficulty navigating it. (however, 32 miles of unpaved road is a bit much and we were glad when we had pavement under our tires again) There were also 3 old railroad tunnels that we had to walk our bikes through (we also had to bring flashlights because the tunnels were long and unlighted.) I had a pretty good day on the bike today but I’m tired so I think I’ll cut this short.

Tomorrows 84 mile ride will take us to Fond du Lac, WI.

-ME

Day 34 Wisconsin Dells to Fond du Lac, WI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 85 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:18
Average Speed: 16 mph
Elevation Climb: 2158 ft.
————————————————————

Today’s 85 mile ride to Fond du Lac encapsulated all the reasons I enjoy riding a bike. The weather remained cool and somewhat overcast, winds were calm, roads were good and traffic was light. (at least for the first 60 miles) We were able to ride two or three abreast and have long chats while passing lakes, streams, woods, small farms and quaint towns. The “big lawns” have made their appearance…..wide swaths of green that need a big riding mower to cut.

It was a very good day on the bike.

We’re staying at an old Ramada hotel in downtown Fond du Lac. It’s Saturday and not much is open……only the bars and there’s lots of them. I think every 3rd building is a bar…even the Laundromat has a bar in it……Gee, there must not be anything else to do in Wisconsin.

Tomorrows 57 mile ………. Huh? Only 57?, ride will take us to Manitowoc, WI. on the shores of Lake Michigan.

-ME

Day 35 Fond du Lac to Manitowoc, WI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 58 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:32
Average Speed: 16.2 mph
Elevation Climb: 1758 ft.
————————————————————

You can take yesterdays email and “ditto” it for today’s 58 mile ride to Manitowoc, WI. Located on the shores of Lake Michigan …… big lake …. can’t miss it.

It was a short day, (I know it sounds ridiculous to call a 58 mile day short but it’s all relative), and we were able to sleep in a little. We were greeted by a clear blue sky, calm winds and cool temperatures as we started the ride. The pavement was smooth as glass for most of today’s ride and I was able to cruise along without a lot of effort. I rode all day with Keith and I felt good and strong as we chewed up the miles while having both long chats and companionable silences all the while admiring the Wisconsin countryside with its many lakes, farms and small towns.

We got to the hotel before 11:00am and then, since our rooms weren’t ready yet, got a bite to eat at Culvers (Cheeseburger, fries and a shake). After that, we visited the Maritime Museum on the Lake Michigan waterfront where we took a tour of the USS Codia, a WWII submarine. It was an interesting way to spend an hour or so.

Today was an almost perfect day on the bike.

Tomorrow we leave Wisconsin behind as we board a ferryboat to take us across Lake Michigan to Ludington, MI.

-ME

Day 36 Rest Day – Manitowoc, WI to Ludington, MI

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 2,400 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 162:47
Average Speed: 14.7 mph
Elevation Climb: 87,035 ft.
————————————————————

Today’s 10 mile ride, (we had to ride our bikes to and from the ferry), took us to Ludington, MI.

I think we were rooked of a day off because:

1. We didn’t get to spend 2 nights in the same hotel.

2. We had to ride the bike ….. Something I never do on a rest day.

3. We had to load luggage at 9:00am

4. We had to meet at the ferry terminal at 11:00am ….. Not sure why ….. The ferry didn’t leave until 1:15pm.

5. We had to sit on a boat for 4 hours while it bobbed and weaved for 60 miles across Lake Michigan ….. An activity I would not consider a fun thing to do on my day off.

And to top it off we lost another hour as soon as we stepped aboard the ship ……. I’m now on Eastern Time, 3 hours ahead of REAL time.

OK, it wasn’t all that bad. I spent most of my time on board the ship lounging around the upper deck catching a few rays. I also had a very nice dinner of fresh sole (a Wisconsin specialty)

Tomorrows another epic ride of 115 miles. I think this is the last ride we have that’s over 90 miles. (unless I’m unfortunate enough to put in some added “bonus miles” along the way.)

-ME

Day 37 Ludington to Mount Pleasant, MI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 117 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 7:22
Average Speed: 15.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 3234 ft.
————————————————————

Today was a fairly easy ride. I know it sounds funny to call a 117 mile ride easy but the body really adjusts to life on the bike. (what a difference a few weeks makes)

Unlike the past few days, the weather conditions deteriorated overnight and we were greeted with steady rain as we started today’s ride (Oh goody, more squishy socks.) A light rain continued to fall during the first 5 hours of the ride but then disappeared as the cloud cover finally broke to reveal blue sky. Now, at home, I wouldn’t consider riding in the rain, but there’s a completely different mind set when your doing this kind of ride ……. “Neither rain, sleet, hail”…….and all that rot. Physically, I’ve been feeling real strong the past few days so Bill and I really turned on the juice for the final 25 miles into the town of Mount Pleasant.

We felt we deserved a reward for our strong showing so we elected to skip the normal ABB buffet dinner at Shoney’s and opted instead to seek sustenance at the Lonestar Saloon and Steakhouse. I felt much better after devouring a full stack of ribs.

Tomorrows 75 mile ride will take us to Birch Run, MI ……. I know what you’re thinking, I’ve never heard of it either.

-ME

Day 38 Mount Pleasant to Birch Run, MI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 75 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:32
Average Speed: 16.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 643 ft.
————————————————————

It was dark, gloomy and threatening rain when we started today’s 75 mile ride to Birch Run, MI. (You, of course, have looked up the town of Birch Run and already know that it’s claim to fame is …….. wait for it ……… The Outlet Mall ….yes, that’s right! People come from miles around to shop here …… what joy!)

Unlike my most recent rides, I didn’t have a lot of energy today. Maybe it was lack of a proper breakfast (they had us eating continental at the hotel today ……. Cold cereal and donuts don’t make it when bicycling a lot of miles). In any case, it was a flat boring ride with headwinds hounding us for about a third of the time and tailwinds helping us the rest of the time. At least we beat the rain ….. It didn’t start pouring until a couple of hours after we got to the hotel. The landscape we are passing through hasn’t changed for several days …….. It’s farmland planted with cucumbers, beans, corn and hay interspersed with heavily wooded areas.

Tomorrows 87 mile ride will take us the rest of the way across Michigan to Port Huron.

-ME

Day 39 Birch Run to Port Huron, MI

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 88 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:24
Average Speed: 16.3 mph
Elevation Climb: 1141 ft.
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“Here comes the sun

..do..do..do..do..

Here comes the sun

And I say

It’s alright”

As the song says, we rode the 88 miles to Port Huron in hazy sunlight today. There was some light fog and humidity along the way but conditions were so much more pleasant than the past couple of days it hardly mattered. I was even able to admire the numerous varieties of wildflowers growing along the road and in the fields. I guess Michigan isn’t such a bad state to ride through. Hmmmm…. On second thought, maybe I should enlighten you on the condition of the roads here. You remember those hotel beds from the 1960′s where you would put a quarter in the slot and the whole bed would vibrate? Well, Michigan thought that was such a neat concept that they decided to build the same vibrations into their road system …… And it’s absolutely free! ….. I think I’ve jarred a couple of fillings loose traveling on the buckled and cracked pavement here.

After dinner, (Old Country Buffet), Bill and I were met by an old friend of Bills who entertained us in his house, (more of a mansion really), on the shore of Lake Huron ….. Private beach, manicured gardens …. the works. Had a really nice time.

Tomorrow we cross the bridge from Port Huron into Ontario, Canada and bike 80 miles to the town of London.

Oh crap ….. I hear the sound of thunder over the lake ….. I hope we’re not going to get rained on tomorrow.

-ME

Day 40 Port Huron, MI to London, Ontario, Canada

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 83 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:45
Average Speed: 17.3 mph
Elevation Climb: 1528 ft.
————————————————————

So we’re in Canada …. Aye

We assembled as a group to cross the bridge into Canada this morning. We normally don’t start all at once so it was quite a sight seeing 50 riders being escorted across the bridge. The authorities actually closed of a lane of traffic to we could safely ride across.

We love Canada …. The roads are nice and we had a welcoming tailwind for most of the day. Traveling through the countryside, like we do, makes you realize just how much land is dedicated to agriculture ……. Lots of farms out here.

I thoroughly enjoyed today’s ride …. It was quick and I felt good.

Annie, Ted, Steven and I felt the need to ditch the scheduled dinner, (we went, looked and rejected what was offered), and instead went to Tony Romas where I feasted on Ribs ……. Sometimes you just need good food that you order off a menu.

Tomorrow’s a short 64 mile ride to Brantford, ONT.

-ME

Day 41 London to Brantford, ONT

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 66 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:45
Average Speed: 17.3 mph
Elevation Climb: 1420 ft.
————————————————————

Hello again from here in the Commonwealth where everything is very British. Street names such as Wellington, Exeter, Victoria, and Westchester are very common here. Even the currency has strange names such as the Looney for the one dollar coin and the twooney for the two dollar coin.

Today’s 66 mile jaunt took us from London to Brantford, Ontario. The Canadian countryside has a more prosperous look to it than its Michigan counterpart. The houses are newer and bigger and the farms and roads are well kept. I can’t say the same about the city of Brantford however ….. The parts I’ve seen are rundown and depressed. As far as I have heard the only thing Brantford is famous for is being the birthplace of Wayne Gretzky …….. Not an inconsequential thing, as Wayne Gretzky is considered to be a God here in Hockeyland.

For today’s ride I borrowed a set of external speakers from Annie (London), strapped them onto my bike and connected my ipod to them so we had tunes while cruising the Canadian countryside passing crops of corn, tobacco, berries and Ginseng (ginseng is slowly replacing tobacco as it is more profitable) ….. Worked great and I will probably continue to use them as long as the weather is nice. Speaking of weather ……. It’s been very humid but not too hot (low 80′s) so it’s not been bad for riding, especially on these shorter days when we’re finished with the ride before 1:00pm. (we’ve also had some nice tailwinds the past couple of days)

Tomorrows 72 mile ride will take us out of Canada and back into the USA at Niagara Falls where we will have our last rest day.

-ME

Day 42 Brantford, ONT to Niagara Falls, NY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 73 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:35
Average Speed: 15.5 mph
Elevation Climb: 1640 ft.
————————————————————

Today we had a 73 mile ride to Niagara Falls, NY where we have a Rest Day tomorrow. (Yeah! ….. Don’t have to pack-up the suitcase tomorrow)

The ride was pleasant ….. Canada was once again hospitable to us. We rode on nice roads, (well there were a few rough sections), with pleasant scenery and temperatures, (though it continues to be very humid out here), but we didn’t have the advantage of tailwinds today.

As we came into Niagara Falls from the Canadian side we were greeted with a spectacular view of the Falls from atop a hill ….. What a wonder!

This area is very busy with both vehicles and pedestrians and we had to weave our way across the Rainbow Bridge through Customs to our hotel just across the Bridge on the U.S. side.

I’ve got to say, the U.S. side of Niagara Falls is a dump. They need to bulldoze it down and start over. The Canadian side is much nicer and I will be spending my time there tomorrow.

I took a stroll around Goat Island after dinner tonight and thoroughly enjoyed the many views of the Falls that the walking path provided.

I’ll probably at least do the “Maid of the Mist” tour tomorrow.

-ME

Day 43 Rest Day – Niagara Falls, NY

Cumulative Stats:
Mileage: 2,912 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 193:55
Average Speed: 15.0 mph
Elevation Climb: 96,841 ft.
————————————————————

Today was a Rest Day and I took full advantage of it to prepare myself for the final week of the tour. I woke early and made my way across the border to Starbucks to have a Latte and read the local paper (It seems Canada has just as many problems as the USA). I then wandered back to the U.S. to clean my bike and take the “Maid of the Mist” tour. (A boat takes you up to the base of the falls. The crushing sound of the water cascading around you while near the falls is truly astounding.)

Then it was back to Canada for lunch. It’s pretty hot and humid here so we, (Keith, Jim & I), ate a burger at a covered outdoor café near the falls where the misty breeze from the horseshoe falls could cool us off a bit. Then it was back to the USA, (The customs agent and I are now on a first name basis), for a well deserved siesta followed by an ice cream run.

Then it was time to start planning for dinner. A group of us discussed all the options over beer. Annie, Stew and I decided to go Italian ……. so back to Canada we went. Found a place with good food and a nice Merlot wine and all was well. We passed a Dairy Queen on the way back and was compelled to stop for a Reese’s peanut butter Blizzard.

Yep, it was a good day off.

Tomorrows 80 mile ride will take us to Henrietta, NY.

-ME

Day 44 Niagara Falls to Henrietta, NY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 83 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:56
Average Speed: 16.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 2014 ft.
————————————————————

Today we rode the 83 miles to Henrietta in stifling heat and humidity. (It was close to 100 degrees when we arrived at the hotel.) A couple of things made the day bearable: The wind continued to favor us and there weren’t a lot of hills. It’s not enjoyable to ride in these conditions and the only goal I had today was to make it to the hotel and air conditioning.

Tomorrows 88 mile ride to Syracuse will probably be much like today’s ride. I hear it should cool down as the week progresses …… I sure hope so.

-ME

Day 45 Henrietta to Syracuse, NY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 96 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:50
Average Speed: 16.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 2975 ft.
————————————————————

Today’s 96 mile ride to Liverpool (Syracuse), NY was a trial. Heat and humidity were once again our enemies but we did have the all-important tailwind on our side. We have intersected the Erie Canal and we will spend the next couple of days roughly following its path. The area we are traveling through is very nice …. I just wish the weather would cooperate so we could enjoy our surroundings. There is hope though ….. A thunderstorm has just passed through, (I had just reached the hotel when it hit), and it has cooled down the temperature by at least 20 degrees. …… I hope it holds.

Dave Thompson (Dr. Dave) who was on my 2004 Cross Country trip lives in Syracuse and he has invited me for a meal at his house ……. Wow! …. A home cooked meal sounds real good to me right now.

Tomorrows 80 mile ride will take us to Little Falls, NY. I expect this route to look familiar to me as it should be mostly the same as on the 2004 Cross Country trip.

-ME

Day 46 Syracuse to Little Falls, NY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 79 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:56
Average Speed: 15.9 mph
Elevation Climb: 1778 ft.
————————————————————

High Humidity, overcast skies and cooler temperatures greeted us as we started today’s 79 mile ride to Little Falls, NY. It was an easy ride with not much in the way of hills and the scenery was pleasant if not exciting. I took my time as I saw no need to hurry to the hotel. (I was in Little Falls on my 2004 Cross Country trip and I knew there was really nothing to see there ….. The town has seen better days)

Tomorrows 83 mile ride will take us to Troy, NY.

-ME

Day 47 Little Falls to Troy, NY

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 83 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:05
Average Speed: 16.3 mph
Elevation Climb: 2047 ft.
————————————————————

It’s really cooled off around here ….. We started today’s 83 mile ride to Troy, NY under overcast skies and temperatures in the mid-sixties. We followed Route 5E through rolling countryside for the first 50 miles. The towns we are passing through here in up-state New York are clearly on the decline and are very depressing to ride through. The last 30 miles of the ride we were on a bike path that follows the Erie Canal, which was very pleasant and totally enjoyable.

Tonight we had a Pub Quiz after dinner that was put together by a group of riders that are known as “The Final Four” (an appropriate name because they are always the last ones to the hotel sometimes lagging the rest of us by several hours ….. They do have a lot of fun though) I was co-emcee along with Peter (England). Our job was to read questions about the places we’ve seen and the people on the trip, prepared by “The Final Four”, to our riders who were divided into groups of approximately 8. The groups then wrote down their answers. We will announce winners tomorrow. We had a lot of laughs.

It was a good day but it’s late and I’m tired.

Tomorrows very hilly 77 mile ride will take us out of New York and bring us to Brattleboro, VT.

-ME

Day 48 Troy, NY to Brattleboro, VT

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 75 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:10
Average Speed: 14.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 5308 ft.
————————————————————

Mild temperatures and a shining sun were on tap for today’s 75 mile trek to Brattleboro, VT. It was not an easy ride as there were lots of hills and weekend traffic to navigate but, for the most part, I really enjoyed the day. My overall fitness has improved to the point that it was not a major effort to bike across the Green Mountains today …….. Of course, after riding over 3000 miles during the last 7 weeks, I should be able to climb a few hills.

We are now in Vermont and there’s a stark difference in the prosperity levels of the towns and villages we are passing through compared to upstate New York. Vermont towns are vibrant with lots of people going about their business. Buildings and houses are clean and well kept. It’s a nice change.

Tomorrows 86 mile ride will take us out of Vermont, (wow….that was quick), and into Manchester, NH.

-ME

Day 49 Brattleboro, VT to Manchester, NH

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 88 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:18
Average Speed: 13.8 mph
Elevation Climb: 6893 ft.
————————————————————

It was a perfect weather day, (blue sky, cool with little humidity), for our 88 mile ride to Manchester, NH. With almost 7000 feet of climbing, this ride was easily the hilliest day of the entire trip. To make it even more challenging, three of the climbs were at grades of between 12 and 17%. After this many days of riding I was up for the challenge. The New Hampshire scenery is pleasant though so I really didn’t mind all the climbing. (of course, I say that now but while I was actually riding up the hills I remember muttering a lot of things under my breath.)

We had our official ABB farewell dinner tonight where the ABB staff hands out gag awards, (I received a toy microphone for my outstanding work as co-emcee for the Pub Quiz.), and all the riders have a chance to address the group and tell us what the trip has meant to them.

Tomorrows our last ride and it’s a 60 mile jaunt to the beach in Portsmouth, NH. We’ll even get a police escort for the final few miles.

-ME

Day 50 Manchester to Portsmouth, NH

Daily Stats:
Mileage: 63 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:22
Average Speed: 14.4 mph
Elevation Climb: 2647 ft.
————————————————————

Into every life a little rain must fall and that’s just what happened to us this morning. …… Light rain fell on us for the first 30 miles of our 63 mile ride to Wallis Sands State Beach in Portsmouth, NH. Fortunately the storm front passed quickly and it was warm and sunny for our 4 mile police escort and Atlantic Ocean tire dipping celebration on the beach.Though I’ve done this before, there’s still an incredible sense of accomplishment upon completing an epic journey such as this.

It was a busy afternoon:

• Ride from the beach to the hotel
• Get cleaned up
• Take the bike to the bike shop for shipping back home.
• Say goodbye to the ABB staff
• Attend the final celebratory dinner at Warren’s Lobster House in Kittery, Maine.
• Say goodbyes to people who have been your family for the past 2 months. …. You meet a great group of people on these rides.

Tomorrow I’ll be up early to catch the 7:00am shuttle to Boston’s Logan Airport for the long flight home. It’s hard to believe I won’t be getting on my bike to ride to another destination.

-ME

Final Thoughts

Final Stats:
Mileage: 3,479 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 230:32
Average Speed: 15.1 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 120,503 ft.
——————————

MIRACLE WEIGHT LOSS FORMULA DISCOVERED

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Here’s the secret to my success:

Slather on a generous portion of Butt Butt’r* and plant your behind on a exceedingly narrow seat, (otherwise known as an “ass axe”), mounted on a two wheeled contraption known as a bicycle and proceed to ride 80+ miles on a mountainous route plotted by a sadist. Repeat every day for the next 50 days, (Be sure to throw in a few days of fierce heat, headwinds and rain just for fun), and just like that ….. You’ve lost 15 pounds.

*Butt Butt’r sold separately

This is my second time riding a bicycle across the country and I think I said it all last time:I still don’t care much for:

• Buffets …… Man, they do get old.
• Packing and unpacking at a new hotel every day.
• The regimentation that’s necessary when being a member of a large group such as this.

I still really enjoyed:

• The camaraderie of my biking companions was paramount while peddling the miles away.
• Eating ……. Enough said
• The Journey ……… Seeing our marvelous country and people is truly an amazing experience when viewed from the seat of a bicycle. ….. I highly recommend it.

Life is good!

-ME

On April 10, 2006, I took to the road to mountain bike and hike the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park in southern Utah. (Near Moab) The journey was around 100 miles and we took 6 days and 5 nights to complete it. (We traveled at a pretty leisurely pace) Since it involved wilderness camping, there weren’t any amenities (unless you consider pit toilets an amenity) There were 5 of us on this adventure: Steve (my Longmont friend), his girlfriend Judi, her friend Dianne and Eric, Steve’s friend, who I went hiking with last summer (He also supplied the necessary 4-wheel drive truck)



Figure 1: White Rim Trail (Southern Utah)

Day 1: Shaffer Trail Head to Airport Campground

It was an 18 mile day that took us from the Shaffer Trail Head to the Airport campground.



Figure 2: Shaffer Trailhead

We started with a steep switchback descent down the canyon wall. From the bottom of the switchbacks the terrain gradually leveled out as we got closer to the White Rim Trail (named for the white rock that surrounds the deep canyons in this part of the country).



Figure 3: Eric, Steve, Dianne & Dan on the White Rim

I took over driving the truck from Eric after the first 7 miles. We must all take turns driving (the areas requiring 4-wheel drive skills are handled by Eric or Steve)

During the ride, Steve, Judi and Eric took the opportunity to walk across Musselman Arch. (This Arch is at least 5 yards wide but the drop is many hundreds of feet) I didn’t even consider walking it myself. I like to think I’ve got much more sense but the truth is I have a definite fear of falling.



Figure 4: Eric sitting atop Musselman Arch

We set up camp and I got a chance to try out my new REI tent…easy to setup…all is good. Unfortunately a strong wind was blowing all night long and it kept all of us awake. I also found a hole in the bottom of my tent the next morning. I had prepared a snack for the next days ride and I made the mistake of storing it in the tent. It seems a rodent can smell peanuts and M&M’s through a tent bottom and plastic baggy and will gnaw through both for a meal…who knew?…..live and learn.

Day 2: Airport to Murphy Campground

Day 2 was a 26 mile day that took us to Murphy Campground. If you ever visit “Island in the Sky” in Canyonlands National Park and drive to the “Grand View Point Overlook”, you’ll get a great view of the Monument Valley and of the road we spent a good portion of day 2 traversing….truly magnificent!



Figure 5: Washer Woman Arch

The terrain we are traveling is mostly easy mountain biking (rocky with some sandy areas) but there are challenges. The last climb to the Murphy Campground was a major 400 foot climb that we all had to walk up.



Figure 6:


Figure 7: Murphy Hogback



Figure 8: Murphy Campground

Day 3: Murphy to Candlestick Campground

Day 3 was a 10 mile ride that took us to Candlestick Campground. This was a fun, but short, biking day.



Figure 9: Riding the White Rim

I took my first fall of the trip today. I was going up a steep hill when my rear tire slipped into a hole….a few scrapes and a little blood….nothing serious though. I was wearing my video helmet cam but, unfortunately, the battery that powers the external lens died before the fall so it will not make the DVD highlights.



Figure 10: Bicycling the White Rim Trail




Figure 11: Taking a break on the White Rim



Figure 12: Sunset at Candlestick Campground

The campground was pretty desolate and very exposed. Fortunately the weather has been very good and temperate up to this point.

Day 4: Candlestick to Labyrinth Campground

Day 4 was a 22 mile ride to Labyrinth Campground where we will spend 2 nights.

It was my turn to drive the first 11 miles to Potato Bottom where I turned the driving over to Eric for the far more difficult last 11 miles.



Figure 13: Dianne, Steve & Judi



Figure 14: Nasty hills near Potato Bottom

There was a short hike to see some old ruins today. I made it to the point where there was a natural rock bridge to cross. I’m sure it was at least 6 feet wide but all I saw was 3 summersaults and a splat on either side so I cheerfully waved goodbye to my companions and retraced my steps back to my bike and continued the ride.



Figure 15: Narrow natural rock bridge to Ruins



Figure 16: Dianne, Steve & Judi at Ruin

I was going down a steep hill when I hit some deep sand. I thought for sure I was going to crash as I slalomed down the slope but I somehow made it.

Our campground for the next 2 nights overlooks the Green River and there is a sandy beach where you can wade about a half mile from camp (the water is real cold though).



Figure 17: Labyrinth Campground



Figure 18: Relaxing by the Green River



Figure 19: Dianne, Judi, Steve, Eric & Dan at Labyrinth Campground

It was a very pleasant night tonight. A full moon, no clouds and no wind make for a very good nights sleep.

Day 5: Hiking to Upheaval Dome

Day 5 had us hiking to the center of Upheaval Dome.



Figure 20: Hiking to Upheaval Dome



Figure 21: Upheaval Dome

We reached the end of the trail after about 6 miles of hiking. My companions wanted to explore some more but I haven’t done that much hiking and it was 6 miles back to camp so I elected to start back by myself. About half way back I noticed that it was beginning to cloud up……..and I didn’t put the rain cover on my tent……..Crap!

It didn’t rain before I got back ….. Phew!

After eating a pre-dinner meal of noodles, the wind began to pick-up as a small storm front reached us. The wind got so bad we all made a beeline to our tents to ride it out. Watching from my tent, I was treated to a spectacular rainbow after the storm front passed us by.



Figure 22: Rainbow after storm

After dinner, as we prepared to retire for the night, (this has consistently been about 9:00pm….it’s dark and campfires are not allowed), we noticed that it’s really getting cloudy and we might get some rain during the night. From my tent I begin to see lightning flashes in the distance followed by thunder claps seconds later (good….not too close to us). The wind is really starting to pick-up speed though and my tent poles are being bent into me pretty severely…….good thing they’re designed to bend in the wind. Hmmm…..OK, the lightning is getting closer and the wind is really starting to howl…..Not Good! I’m lying flat on my back and the tent is bent so far over me that I’m kissing vinyl. I’m thinking to myself: “Don’t touch the metal tent poles……..don’t touch the metal tent poles”. The lightning is very bright but I notice that there have still been no strikes near us, there is not much rain and every now and then the wind slackens a little; but then you hear a sound like thunder only you realize it’s not thunder you’re hearing but the ominous sound of a wind front racing down the river to slam you again. My tent pole finally succumbs to the wind with a loud snap…….I’m now lying inside a collapsed tent with nothing to do but ride out the storm…..this is not a comfortable feeling. The storm front finally passes us by at around 10:30pm and it’s time to assess the damage:

My tent is a total loss.

Dianne’s tent is also a goner. The wind actually dragged the tent with her in it several feet.

Steve and Judi’s tent also have a broken pole and some are bent but they have a bigger tent and it has managed to maintain integrity. They also mentioned that they observed static electricity crawling up their tent during the storm….that’s scary.

Eric’s tent is intact and has sustained no visible damage.

Dianne decides to spend the rest of the night in the truck and Eric graciously allows me to share his tent for the remainder of the night.

Unfortunately, the wind was not through with us…….another storm front hits us soon after we settled down to sleep again. No lightning but the wind was just as bad……more vinyl kissing….Eric and I just started laughing….there was nothing else to do. After that storm passed we had yet another one pass through……. It made for a long night…..I did manage to get a couple of hours sleep though. None of us has experienced anything quite like last night.

Other storm damage:

My still camera no longer works…..the lens cover will not open. It was lying in the tent all night.

Steve’s glasses show signs of being sandblasted. Probably from the micro-dust passing through the tent walls during the storms.

Eric’s tent poles have bent so no tent went unscathed.

Day 6: Labyrinth Campground to Highway 313

Day 6 was a 22 mile ride that had us finishing our journey. We woke up to a clearing sky with little wind….yeah! We decided to make an early start of it so we were away early.



Figure 23: Green River

The first 6 miles followed the river and then it was time to ascend a 800 foot switchback up the canyon wall….quite a grunt but it wasn’t a technical climb. From the top it was smooth riding all the rest of the way. We all took a drive up to the “Grand View Point Overlook” to see some of the road we had traveled from a much higher viewpoint. At the Visitor Center we learned that the weather we experienced is very uncommon for this area….lucky us.

We returned to Moab to:

Shower!……..haven’t had one in 5 days (lucky the humidity is low) I arrived at my hotel at around 3:30pm and the receptionist told me. “Check in isn’t until 4:00pm”. I moved a little upwind of her and told her “I really need a shower”………she amazingly found a room that was vacant. The washcloth I used started out white. By the time I was done it was the color of Moab Red Dirt.

Food!……….The freeze dried stuff is really getting old. We went to an all-you-can-eat pizza joint and suffice it to say, I made sure they did not make a profit on me that night.

It was a fun trip and a great experience despite the storms.

Wow….this was long…..anybody still with me?

If you’re family you have to read the whole tale…..it’s your obligation.

If you’re a friend you only have to say you read it.

-Dan Crandall

Day 0 Minneapolis

Well ……. I’m back! ……….. you lucky people have been chosen to receive a day-to-day reckoning of my 25-day bike journey down the Mississippi River. Today was orientation day…. A chance to meet the people I will be spending the next month riding with. It’s a smaller group this year. There are only 15 of us that are going to ride all the way down to New Orleans with another 10 doing a portion of the ride. Bill, (of bikingwithbill fame), and Rick, my friends from last years Cross Country trip, have joined me on this ride and it is good to see them again.

Today was our first group dinner and wouldn’t you know it the first restaurant chosen for us to feast at was “The New China Buffet” … Oh Joy! I was sorely tempted to ditch it and find some place that was more palatable but Bill and Rick convinced me that I should wait till at least the second day to rebel. I reluctantly agreed.

Tomorrows 61 mile ride will take us to Red Wing (Home of Red Wing shoes), MN.

Bill has a new website where he will also be keeping a daily journal with pictures: www.bikingwithbill.blogspot.com

-ME

Day 1 Minneapolis to Red Wing, MN

The Stats:
Mileage: 61 Miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:13
Average Speed: 14.2 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 2505 ft.
——————————
Minnesota facts: Did you know that Minnesota has more fishing licenses and snowmobiles per capita than any other state? (What are you waiting for? ………. call the movers)What a fantastic day for riding! We woke up to blue skies, low humidity and mild temperatures. Since this was a relatively low mileage day we had a leisurely breakfast and then took a group photo to commemorate the start of our journey together. We started our ride by meandering through little traveled streets and bike paths through the city of St. Paul.

Pierre “Pigs Eye” Parrant founded St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota. Which, of course, means that the city was originally named “Pigs Eye”. For some unknown reason, it was decided that the name “Pigs Eye” was not good for the city image so it was renamed St. Paul for the first Catholic Church in the area.

Upon leaving St. Paul we traveled on gently rolling, (OK, maybe not always gently), roads through the lush countryside of Minnesota and Wisconsin. Its mostly farming country here and we passed many fields of corn and soy. My pace was leisurely and I really enjoyed the ride.
We’re staying in Red Wing tonight. Established in 1849, Red Wing is named for the Dakota Indians whose chiefs would wear red feathers. Today, it is known as the home of Red Wing Shoes and Red Wing Ceramic Pottery (though the pottery factory closed in 1967). It’s a nice little town and they have these neat artistic boots decorating the city sidewalks.

Tomorrows 100 mile ride, (Argh……I haven’t ridden a century since last year), will take us to La Crosse, WI.

I’m not getting a digital wireless signal in this town, so this email may not reach you until a later date.

-ME

Day 2 Red Wing to La Crosse, WI

The Stats:
Mileage: 100 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:30
Average Speed: 15.4 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1954 ft.
——————————
It was an early morning today…….load luggage on the van at 5:45am……breakfast at Perkins at 6:00am and on the road by 7:00am. At 50 degrees, it was rather chilly at the start of today’s ride but it warmed up nicely as the day progressed. The weather and scenery were much like yesterdays. Sunny skies, low humidity, little or no wind, and mild temperatures (low 80′s). We again rode through gently rolling farm country. Most of the ride was very enjoyable, but it was 100 miles and I was glad to get into the hotel today. As per last year I’m slowly beginning to recognize my new riding companions. Unfortunately we’ll loose 10 of them when we get to St. Charles, MO on Day 9.
Tomorrows 65 mile ride will take us to Prairie du Chien, WI

-ME

Day 3 La Crosse to Prairie du Chien, WI

The Stats:
Mileage: 67 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:20
Average Speed: 15.5 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1241 ft.
——————————
Another day, another great ride. Weather and road conditions were once again almost perfect for riding. We spent all day riding the flood plains on the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi river. There weren’t a lot of hills (mostly gentle rollers) and I was on “cruise control” as I didn’t have to exert a lot of energy today. (except, when some of us decided to follow the signs to a “Scenic Overlook”……the distance was only about .5 miles but the grade was at least 15%, by my estimate, so it was quite a grunt to get to the top. It was worth it as we beheld a magnificent view of the Mississippi river basin.) Every 10-15 miles or so finds us passing through a small town (population < 1000). It’s pleasant to see the unhurried lifestyle of folks far from the hustle and bustle of the large cities.
Dinner tonight is at Huckleberry’s where I’m sure we’ll polish off another large buffet.

Tomorrows 69 mile ride will take us to Dubuque, IA where Tom Burds, my friend from last years ride, will pick Bill, Rick and I up for a home cooked meal at his house. (So I will not have time to give an update tomorrow)

-ME

Day 4 Prairie du Chien to Dubuque, IA

The Stats:
Mileage: 71 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:30Average Speed: 12.9 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 4580 ft.
——————————
Wow, this was a tough bike day with lots of climbing! We had some long climbs (2+ miles) combined with short steep rollers but at least the weather was once again benign.Some of you have asked about bugs (after all, the state bird of Minnesota is purported to be the Mosquito). I have to say, I’m delighted to report that the bugs have yet to make their presence known. (They’re probably massing in Iowa for an all-out attack once we arrive)I rode, as has been usual, with Bill and Rick and we were anxious to get to the hotel so that we could meet up with Tom Burds, our buddy from last years ride. We were tired and hungry hombres when Tom met us at our hotel and took us to his house to partake in a fabulous homemade feast. We started with appetizers (Shrimp cocktail, mixed nuts) I also had a beer and was afraid I would fall asleep if I had more than one. Dinner consisted of BBQ Steak, fresh corn-on-the-cob, Potatoes, bread, wine and was topped off with homemade raspberry pie al-la-mode. I gotta say, when you ride a bike all day you really appreciate a great meal and I’m grateful that Tom and his lovely wife, Nancy invited us to dine with them. After dinner Tom’s son Jeff (with us for a portion of last year’s ride) and Kenny (also on last year’s ride) dropped by to say hello. It was a great night……good food, great company…..what more can you ask?

-ME

Day 5 Dubuque, IA to Clinton, IA

The Stats:
Mileage: 78 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:25
Average Speed: 12.1 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 4230 ft.
——————————
Well, so much for the good weather. It was raining when I woke up this morning.
Today’s route had us cross the river back into Illinois where we would bike all day and cross back over the Mississippi into Clinton, IA for the night. A light rain was falling as we started our ride. Upon crossing the bridge over the Mississippi into Iowa all hell broke loose. There were claps of thunder and lightning followed by heavy rain. We were fortunate that there was a Conoco gas station and convenience store nearby where we could seek shelter while waiting for the storm to pass. There were 13 of us who sought refuge and, as you can imagine, we made a sorry site as we stood just inside the entrance of the store. We even took to greeting the store patrons with “Hello, welcome to Conoco”. The storm cell soon passed and we were on our way again. The second storm cell hit at around mile 17 while I was climbing up a very steep (15% grade) hill. It was raining so hard I had water cascading down my helmet into my eyes like a waterfall. With all the thunder and lightning I knew I had to find shelter and upon reaching the top of the hill I was able to see that some of my fellow travelers had found a barn that would provide a good haven. We were in that barn for the better part of an hour but finally the storm did pass and we were able to once again be on our way. We saw sun at around mile 32 …… Yeh! ….. but then the wind began to blow….against us…….Boo!……..and it began to get hot…..crap! I persevered though I was tired at the end of the ride.

Tomorrow’s 87 mile ride will take us to Galesburg, IL

-ME

Day 6 Clinton, IA to Galesburg, IL

The Stats:
Mileage: 87 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:10
Average Speed: 14.1 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 2414 ft.
——————————
It was a sunny day with not a cloud in the sky, which was most welcome after yesterdays start. However, we were warned that today was going to be hot and humid and HOT and HUMID it was. We began the day crossing “The River” over to Illinois and following the GIT (Great Illinois Trail) bike path for 30 miles. It was a pleasant path that paralleled the Mississippi river (there were some rough gravel parts where my mountain biking skills came in handy though). After exiting the bike path we were in farm country once again…….nothing but corn and soy for miles around. The terrain wasn’t too hilly today, (at least not compared to yesterday), so we were able to ride 2 abreast and chat for a good deal of today’s ride. As the day wore on it started getting hotter and more humid. It’s not too bad when you’re riding, as you can generate your own cooling breeze, but when you stop it hits you like a sauna. We had run out of water by the time we hit the metropolis of Henderson, IL (Population 384) at about the 80 mile mark. There were no stores our any other public facilities so we were forced to beg one of the residents for water. (actually, we knocked on a door and when no one answered we proceeded to use their garden hose to fill our bottles).
Tomorrow’s 95 mile ride will take us to Keokuk, IA (It’s supposed to be at least 10 degrees cooler tomorrow……I certainly hope so)

P.S. Some of you are aware that I was Assistant Editor for a film submitted to “The 48 Hour Film Project” (www.48hourfilm.com) in San Francisco. I received a phone call from Jessie, (The Editor), last night and she informed me that the local judges had awarded our short film first place for Best Film and Best Script from the 26 submissions in San Francisco. The National Judges will now judge our film against the Best Film winners of the 31 other cities in the competition. From those films, the national judges will select the top 5 teams and invite them to make a second 48 Hour Film…..Pretty Cool!

-ME

Day 7 Galesburg, IL to Keokuk, IA

The Stats:
Mileage: 95 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 7:00
Average Speed: 13.5 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 2093 ft.
——————————
No rain today ….. hallelujah!Temperatures were cooler than yesterdays (low 80′s) ……. Praise the Lord!10-15 mph headwinds for the first 80 miles ……. Curse the Devil!Ok, the first 80 miles of today’s ride can be summed up as follows:”Corn to the right of meSoybeans to the leftAnd here I am, stuck in the middle against wind”I started today riding, as usual, with Bill and Rick. We were joined by Mordy, his 16 year old son Gabe and Cynthia. My energy level was very low starting today’s ride and I was having trouble staying with “the group”. After riding about 20 miles, The Group decided they wanted to set up a pace line to help cut the wind. I decided that I’d rather drop back and go my own pace so I rode alone until catching up with Bill and Rick (they were repairing a flat tire) just before reaching the town of Nauvoo at about the 80 mile mark. We rode into town and had lunch then proceeded to cruise, (I was now feeling real good….funny how you can feel better at the end of a long ride than at the beginning), the last 15 miles along the Mississippi River to our hotel in Keokuk.

Tomorrows 61 mile ride will take us to Hannibal, MO (Hometown of Samuel Clemens [Mark Twain])

-ME

Day 8 Keokuk, IA to Hannibal, MO

The Stats:
Mileage: 60 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:53
Average Speed: 15.5 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1253 ft.
——————————
It was a fun day on the bike today.
Good weather welcomed us into its embrace as we started today’s ride. We had a slight tail wind so we we’re able to cruise down the Mississippi river valley without a great deal of effort and we pulled up to our hotel in Hannibal before noon. Plenty of time was available to take in the towns sites and to indulge in our favorite pastime…….food (BBQ Pork……..mmmmm good) Hannibal is a small tired town attempting to become a tourist destination for all things Mark Twain……so far the results of this effort are mixed. There are some nice small shops but there are a lot of old vacant buildings and nothing is very upscale……needs work.

Tonight we’re staying at the Hotel Clemens, just across the street from the Mark Twain Dinette (Are you starting to sense a theme here?)

We’re also having the T-Shirt swap tonight (I didn’t much care for it last year and IT’S BACK). They’re having it early on this trip because 11 of our riders will be leaving the tour after tomorrow’s ride. I picked up a Hannibal T-Shirt in town to swap.

Tomorrow’s 98 mile (groan) ride will take us to St. Charles, MO where we will receive our first of two, well deserved, off days.

-ME

Day 9 Hannibal, MO to St. Charles, MO

The Stats:
Mileage: 96 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:22
Average Speed: 15.1 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 4114 ft.
——————————-
Lot’s of miles to ride today so an early start was in order and we were on the road as soon as it was light enough for it to be safe. We had quite a number of long and sometimes steep climbs early in our ride today. Bill, Rick, Cyndi (MA), Mordy (MO) and Gabe (MO) dropped me soon after we hit the hills and I rode with Connie (MI) 33 miles to the first SAG (Rest) stop today. I joined up with Cyndi, Bill and Rick after the first SAG and we rode the rest of the day together. I felt pretty good today though riding 96 miles is always tiring.
The Missouri roads I remember so fondly from last years ride are back. Crumbling pavement, lots of fast moving trucks, discourteous drivers. ……. Missouri has it all!
We stopped at Elmer’s Tavern in the town of St. Peters for lunch around mile 88. They weren’t really set up to serve food but they did cook us up a couple of frozen pizzas…….we NEEDED food!
Chevy’s Mexican Restaurant was our dining option for tonight’s meal. I did not like the options we were given as to what items we could order, so I elected to order from the menu and pay for it myself. I chose wisely and ordered up the BBQ ribs.
11 of our riders leave the tour after today so our group now consists of only 16 riders.

Tomorrows an Off Day and some of us are planning to tour St. Louis.

-ME

Day 10 St. Charles, MO

Rest Day in St. Charles
——————————

Though today was a day off the bike I still woke up at 5:30am ready to start the day. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much happening at that hour.

Later, Rick arranged the rental of a mini-van so Bill, Rick, John, Jill & I could explore the area at our leisure.

Our first stop was at a local bike shop where I bought a couple of pair of bicycle shorts as replacements for ones that were chaffing me mighty fiercely during my recent rides.

Our next stop was St. Louis where we had great lunch at a restaurant in “The Landing” on the waterfront. We then proceeded to walk to The Gateway Arch (Gateway to the west). Completed in 1965 this 630 foot high monument of concrete and stainless steel is truly awesome to behold…….pictures do not do it justice. We were able to ride to the top where a magnificent view of St. Louis and its environs awaited us.

We then took an interesting hour tour of the Anheuser-Busch Brewery. The stables where they house the Clydesdale horses were nicer than some of our hotel rooms. The factory and grounds were spotless (at least the parts they let us see) It reminded me of Disneyland.

It was then time, once again, for food. We traveled to the Italian District named “The Hill” and found a good place to eat. I had Veal Parmesan and it was good.

It was a good day off, I had fun and am content.

Tomorrows 80 mile ride will take us to Festus, MO.

-ME

Day 11 St. Charles to Festus, MO

The Stats:
Mileage: 82 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:54
Average Speed: 13.8 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 4281 ft.
——————————
There’re lots of rolling hills in this part of the country and we climbed a great many of them today. Fortunately, overcast skies and cool temperatures were on tap for most of the ride and, although we felt a few drops of rain, we didn’t get wet. I was feeling really good after yesterdays rest day and I had no trouble dealing with the varied environments this ride offered. We had a little of everything today. Besides the aforementioned hills, we traveled through busy urban and suburban streets, back country roads, and bike trails. We even passed by the Gateway Arch in St. Louis that we toured yesterday and paused long enough to take a group picture. Most of the ride was not what I would consider scenic but I still enjoyed myself today.
Tonight we’re staying in Festus, MO. When asked what Festus is famous for, the hotel clerk informed us that the local Wal-Mart is so big that it physically rests in two different cities…………….and that about sums up Festus.
Tomorrows 46 mile ride will take us to Ste. Genevieve, MO. Since the ride is short, we should have plenty of time to wander around. (Ste. Genevieve was established in 1735 so I’m hoping there’s something worth seeing)

-ME

Day 12 Festus to Ste. Genevieve, MO

The Stats:
Mileage: 51 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 3:36
Average Speed: 14 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 3261 ft.
——————————
It was a cool overcast windless day upon leaving the hotel for today’s short ride to Ste. Genevieve, which is the first European settlement in what is now the state of Missouri. Being as this is Missouri, there were lots of rolling hills to navigate. The roads in these parts have fairly good pavement but they are narrow with no shoulders and the traffic can be heavy at times not making for the most enjoyable riding conditions. Therefore, we were happy to roll into town at around 10:30am……..just in time for morning coffee and a homemade blueberry scone. We then went down to the Mordoc Ferry and crossed the river to the Illinois side…….not much to see, so we promptly made the return journey back to Ste. Genevieve just in time for lunch (It sure is nice luxury to order what you want off a menu) After lunch we rode to our hotel for the night…….10 hilly miles from town.
Tomorrows 69 mile ride will take us to Cape Girardeau, MO

-ME

Day 13 Ste. Genevieve to Cape Girardeau, MO

The Stats:
Mileage: 68 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:44
Average Speed: 14.3 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 3454 ft.
——————————
Today the BIG “H” was on the menu.
Start with a base ingredient of continual Hills stir in a healthy portion of Heat and Humidity then add a pinch of Headwinds and you’ve got the recipe for a Hellish day. I’m getting real tired of bicycling in Missouri. Last year I rode West to East across the state and this year it’s North to South……..this friggin state is nothing but hills!
On the plus side, the scenery today was pleasant…….country roads dotted with small farms growing corn and soybeans. The roads are narrow but the pavement is in good condition and traffic was light today.
We also reached the half-way point of our journey today……hard to believe….it seems we just got started.
We rolled into the hotel at about 1:00pm and I was very tired, (The heat and humidity really combine to drain you of all energy), and in desperate need of food. Rick, Bill and I went next door to Burger King to partake in a gourmet meal.

There’s been talk about a group of us rebelling to go to a real restaurant with real menus and waiters for dinner tonight.

Tomorrows 92 mile ride will take us to Union City, TN (Yeah!, we’re leaving Missouri)

-ME

Day 14 Cape Girardeau, MO to Union City, TN

The Stats:
Mileage: 93 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:12
Average Speed: 15 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1952 ft.
——————————
No wonder I was so miserable yesterday……..the temperature was 94 degrees with 80% humidity………heat index was 110 degrees.
It was overcast and cool, though still very humid throughout today’s ride……it was so much better than yesterday!
My rear tire went flat just a few miles after starting today’s ride. Rick was out front, as per normal, and didn’t realize I had flatted so he continued on his way but Bill stopped to help me repair my tire. We were soon on our way but we were now the last bicyclists on the road. Bill and I decided it wasn’t worth our while to try and catch up with the herd so we decided to have a “Team Scenic” kind of day. We picked a leisurely pace and didn’t put a lot of effort into our pedaling……….very enjoyable. Melanie (WA) joined our little group after the first SAG stop at mile 24 and we three continued riding together throughout the rest of the day. Our trio became a foursome when Richard (OK) joined us after lunch.
We rode in three different states today. We were in Missouri for the first 73 miles then we took a ferry at Tootsies Landing across the Mississippi river to Hickman, Kentucky where we had lunch (to give you an idea what a classy joint this was; there was a sign in the Men’s room which read: “Please do not spit in the urinal”……..I’m guessing this was addressed at the tobacco chewers.)
Our tour of Kentucky was very short………….a whole 7 miles before crossing into Tennessee.
Today we’re officially in the south and it’s like someone turned a switch:
Suddenly everyone has a southern accent.

Instead of hash browns for breakfast, you get grits …….now here’s a food that tastes like it sounds.

You have the urge to call everyone you meet “Bubba”…..because it fits.

Today was a good day on the bike and I really enjoyed it.

Tomorrows 68 mile ride will take us to Ripley, TN (At Route Rap they announced that there’s another Chinese buffet waiting for us in Ripley……….for some reason, everybody then turned to look at me……….they were not surprised when I asked if there were any other restaurants around………there are………..I wonder how many riders I can get to join me for some REAL food?)

-ME

Day 15 Union City to Ripley, TN

The Stats:
Mileage: 68 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:24
Average Speed: 15.4 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 2093 ft.
——————————
Hi Y’All
We spent a good deal of today pedaling along gently rolling countryside on well maintained roads with little or no auto traffic to impede us from riding three abreast at times. However, there must be a law in Tennessee that states: “every household must have at least 2 dogs to patrol and protect the streets against pedal assisted two wheeled vehicles and their occupants”. I’ve never been chased by so many dogs……big ones, fat ones, tall and skinny ones…..my trusty water bottle got a lot of work squirting the dogs that got too close.
We also saw a great deal of the Kudzu plant. The vines grow as much as a foot a day and can completely cover anything it contacts such as telephone poles, trees, etc……..we were able to admire the interesting sculptures it creates while riding by it.
We stopped for lunch at a little café just before reaching our hotel for the night. I overheard this conversation from the booth behind us: “Hey Bo, didja take yer son out squirrel huntin taday?”……..hunting is big in these here parts.
People are also getting wider as we travel south…..maybe it’s because we eat at buffets…..but these people make me look downright svelte by comparison.
It was another good day on the bike and I’m really enjoying riding in Tennessee as opposed to Missouri.
You can imagine my disappointment when it was announced at Route Rap that the Chinese buffet scheduled for tonight had been canceled (I think they thought we would eat too much…..I wonder where they would get that impression?)…..we had to settle for a steak house instead (we even got to order off the menu)………Oh, the sacrifices we must make.

We are anxiously watching the progress of Hurricane Katrina. Tomorrows 81 mile ride will take us to Memphis, TN where we have our second and final off day. Right now it’s expected that Tuesday, (day off), will be a heavy rain day for us. The weather is expected to clear by Wednesday and we should be able to continue our journey depending on how much damage and havoc the Hurricane has caused……I’m anticipating that we will not make it to New Orleans though.

-ME

Day 16 Ripley to Memphis, TN

The Stats:
Mileage: 81 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 5:13
Average Speed: 15.5 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 2509 ft.
——————————-
Wow, Tennessee has turned out to be a real fine bike riding state…..enough hills to make it interesting but not so many that you’re exhausted at the end of the ride. There’s been some great scenery……corn has given way to cotton and there are also plenty of horse farms out this way. We’re also starting to see a different variety of road-kill…..the armadillo made its appearance today.
It was overcast and very humid throughout today’s ride. A small band of thundershowers hit us as the first SAG stop but there wasn’t much rain and it passed quickly. So, all-in-all it was a pleasant ride into Memphis.
The remnants of Hurricane Katrina is expected to pass through here tomorrow (our off day) and it is expected to be clear for our ride Wednesday. As of now, we expect to be able to complete this trip as scheduled. (we’ll probably know more tomorrow)
Group dinner tonight was at the Blues City Café…….more good ribs…..a live Blues band……when you’re in Memphis ya gotta do the blues.

-ME

Day 17 Memphis, TN

Rest Day in Memphis
——————————
Slept in till 7:00am went to Starbucks for a latte and read the paper for the first time since leaving home…..excepting Hurricane Katrina, it’s amazing how little change there is in the news from day to day.
I needed to do laundry today so I schlepped my clothes down to the nearest Laundromat……about 1.5 miles away. Daco (Netherlands) and Jerry (NC) were already there doing their laundry so at least I had good company. (We’re staying in downtown Memphis right across from the Peabody and Beale Street but this Best Western has no laundry facilities).
Joyce, from last years Cross Country trip, arrived yesterday and will be riding the rest of the way with us. It is really good to see her again. Members of last years Cross Country trip (4) now make up 25% of our riders.
Jerry and I went to the “Flying Saucer” this afternoon they have about 250 different beers on tap. If you drink at least one of every kind they hang a plate on the wall with your name engraved on it. If you go through them twice or more the color of the plate changes. All I can say is: “There are a few people in this town with a talent that must make their mothers proud”.
A group of us tried to take in a Triple A baseball game (The stadium is next door to our hotel. Unfortunately, the game was called because they couldn’t get the infield groomed properly. (It looked fine to us)
It’s been a good day off and I enjoyed myself.
   
Tomorrows 37 mile ride will take us out of Tennessee to Hernando, Mississippi. Since it’s a really short riding day (it shouldn’t take us more than 2.5 hours to complete) we will have plenty of time to tour Graceland…….especially since our route passes in front of it.
It appears my earlier optimism about reaching New Orleans was premature, (before news of the levee failure), we’re definitely not going to New Orleans….we’re OK through to St. Francisville, LA, (September 5^th, Day 23). Gonzales (Day 24) is pretty iffy so we may be stopping for two nights in St. Francisville and riding an up-and-back to Baton Rouge….we’ll have to wait and see.

-ME

Day 18 Memphis, TN to Hernando, MS

The Stats:
Mileage: 39 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 2:44
Average Speed: 14.3 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1450 ft.
——————————
It was a pleasant unhurried ride into Hernando today. The weather, scenery and company were pleasant and we rolled into our hotel about noon. Our rooms were not yet ready so a group of us rode into the town of Hernando where we found a great place to have lunch.
At Route Rap we were told by our tour leaders that fuel was going to be a problem if we continued our trip south. It was our consensus that to continue this trip was not in the best interests of anyone, so tomorrow we are riding back to Memphis. (It’s a good thing we liked today’s route because were going to be riding it again in reverse) I will be making airplane reservations to fly back to San Jose Friday or Saturday from Memphis.

-ME

Day 19 Hernando, MS to Memphis, TN

The Stats:
Mileage: 37 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 2:27
Average Speed: 14.9 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1450 ft.
——————————
We returned to Memphis today reversing our route of yesterday. It was once again a pleasant ride……weather and companionship were excellent. I rode the bike to a Memphis bike shop where they will box and ship it back to my house. I’ve also made flight arrangements to return to San Jose Friday morning.
We said our final goodbyes today. Though the members of this group have become my friends, it was nowhere near as emotional as last years Cross Country parting. My thought is that it takes about 3 weeks to start jelling as a group so there just wasn’t enough time to form as strong a bond on this trip.
This evening we once again went to the ballpark to see a baseball game……this time they actually played and it was an enjoyable way to pass the evening.

-ME

Day 20 Final Thoughts

Final Stats:
Mileage: 1,234 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 85:37
Average Speed: 14.4 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 44,834 ft.
——————————
It was a huge disappointment not to be able to complete this trip. But any dissatisfaction I feel pales in comparison to the devastation and loss the people of this area have suffered due to Hurricane Katrina. I have talked to a number of people who have lost their homes and belongings in this disaster and I realize how lucky I am to have never suffered a similar catastrophe. I hope to revisit this area in happier times.

-ME

Day 0 San Francisco

Today I met with the group that I will be bicycling across the USA with. There are 26 people that will be going the whole distance with me (22 men and 4 women). Another 16 riders will travel with us for portions of the ride. The average age is 52 so I fit right in. Tomorrow is our first riding day and we will bicycle from Burlingame to Fairfield (about 85 miles). We start out riding through San Francisco to Golden Gate Park where we will dip our wheels in the Pacific Ocean. From there we cross the Golden Gate Bridge into Sausalito before making our way to highway 37 and Fairfield. It should be a fairly tough day but I have trained hard and I don’t anticipate any major problem. I’m going to try and give daily updates to those of you lucky people that I have chosen to bore to death.

-ME

Day 1 San Francisco to Fairfield, CA

The Stats:

Mileage: 88 miles (I had some bonus miles due to faulty navigation)

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:30

Average Speed: 13.4 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3682 ft.

——————————

We started out from Burlingame today with bright sunshine and a bit of a breeze. It was a good day for riding. This is the first time I can remember seeing Pacifica without fog. Travel through San Francisco was slow. They had a Triathlon and an AIDS ride happening at the same time and there were a number of street closings and mucho traffic. We all dipped our bike tires in the Pacific Ocean at Golden Gate Beach to commemorate the start of our journey. The traffic congestion loosened up a bit after we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge. The scenery today was beautiful but the riding was fairly tough so the going was slow until we got on highway 37 towards Fairfield. We had a 20mph tail wind and were able to chew up the miles pretty fast. I’m starting to get to know the group I’m traveling with. There’s quite a few states represented and there is one couple from France. I’m one of only two people from California and the other one is only traveling as far as Colorado. The oldest rider is 64 and the youngest is 29. I traveled with a group of 9 riders for most of today.

Tomorrow we ride to Sacramento and it should be a much easier day as it’s “only” 57 miles and most of it is flat. (If we’re really lucky, we’ll get that good tail wind that we had today)

-ME

Day 2 Fairfield to Sacramento, CA

The Stats:

Mileage: 61 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:25

Average Speed: 13.8 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 412 ft.

——————————

Life is good. We had a glorious ride today. The weather was beautiful, the road was flat, the wind was mostly favorable and we took our time. Had a long leisurely lunch in Davis and took the time to tour Old Town Sacramento before hitting the pool at our hotel. I rode with a group of 7 riders today. I’m slowly starting to remember names and faces. The people I spoke to most today are Meg (A schoolteacher from South Carolina and David (A Radiologist from New York). So far it seems I’ve hooked up with a great group of people and we’re going to have a lot of fun.

Tomorrow’s ride to Auburn promises to be another fairly easy day. It’s 51 miles (30 miles on bike paths), but we do have some hills to climb towards the end of the ride.

-ME

Day 3 Sacramento to Auburn, CA

The Stats:

Mileage: 52 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 3:52

Average Speed: 13.5 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2523 ft.

——————————

Yet another wonderful day on the bike. We started out from Sacramento on a relatively flat bicycle path that followed the American River for the first 33 miles of today’s journey. Upon reaching Folsom, we started our climb to Auburn. The weather was once again perfect and we got into our hotel about 12:00. A group of us went into downtown Auburn to look around and have lunch. Auburn is kind of a fun old western town.

Tomorrow’s ride to Truckee promises to be very difficult. It’s a 76-mile ride with over 8000 feet of climb.

-ME

Day 4 Auburn to Truckee, CA

The Stats:
Mileage: 73 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 6:46
Average Speed: 10.7 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 8189 ft.
——————————
Today’s ride took us from Auburn to Truckee.

As expected it was a tough ride but I felt remarkably good at the end of it. It must be my philosophy and mantra, Instead of “No Pain, No Gain”, I Believe in “No Pain, No Pain”. Consequently I try and use the least amount of effort to climb the hills. The weather was a lot cooler today with a threat of thundershowers (which, thankfully, did not happen) I don’t think it got over 50 degrees in Truckee today. The scenery today was great, (Except for the 17 miles that we rode on Interstate 80), and we had a really good fast downhill descent to Donner Lake. Now that we’ve hit the hills, I ended up bicycling alone or with one or two other people. I rode into Truckee with a guy named John who is a cook on a fishing boat in Alaska. He works 2-month shifts, then he’s off for 2 months. Interesting Character. Anyway it’s almost time for “Route Rap” (Where our leaders give us instructions for tomorrows ride.)

We head to Sparks, NV tomorrow and I know that we need to climb the Mount Rose pass.

-ME

Day 5 Truckee, CA to Sparks, NV

The Stats:

Mileage: 50 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:06

Average Speed: 12.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 4320 ft.

——————————

Today’s ride took us from Truckee through Lake Tahoe, up and down Mount Rose to Sparks NV.

The mileage was short but I felt more tired after completing this ride than I did after yesterdays. The climb up Mount Rose was 8.2 miles at a steady 6 percent incline and it was very cold all the way through the summit. But the 16-mile downhill (WHOOPEE!) to Reno made the climb worthwhile. (It’s also warmer here) I’ve been remiss in telling you, my bored readers, about the prodigious amounts of food our group consumes. We mostly have buffets for dinner and the waiters are visibly perplexed when we keep asking for more food. I figure I’m burning between 4000-6000 calories per day. Nobody on this ride is on an Atkins diet. We wouldn’t last long without Carbs.

-ME

Day 6 Sparks to Lovelock, NV

The Stats:

Mileage: 91 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:12

Average Speed: 17.5 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1321 ft.

——————————

Today’s ride took us from Sparks to Lovelock, NV.

Not much to say about the ride. We got on Interstate 80 and got off 90 miles later. It was fast though. The weather continues to favor us. A westerly wind and mild temperatures. Since this is Nevada, our hotels tend to be attached to Casinos. Argh…I had forgotten how bad it is to walk into a place and smell cigarette smoke. This is also the first time that I can recall seeing a 1 cent slot machine. (This really is a small town)

I notice I’m not getting a digital wireless signal in this town, so this email may not reach you until a later date.

-ME

Day 7 Lovelock to Winnemucca, NV

The Stats:
Mileage: 74 miles
On-Bike Ride Time: 4:40
Average Speed: 16 mph
Total Elevation Climb: 1494 ft.
——————————
Today’s ride took us from Lovelock to Winnemucca.

The weather was once again benign and I had a fairly leisurely paced ride. About half the mileage was on Interstate 80. It’s not as bad as it sounds. The freeway here is very smooth with very wide shoulders. After the ride a few of us went to the Basque festival they were holding at the local fairgrounds. They had Basque dancing, Log cutting contests, Tug-of-War, Weight carrying contests (A guy holds 100 pound weights in each hand and sees how far he can carry them). Ah, the charm of a small town.

I still don’t have a digital signal so I guess I’ll save and send this later.

-ME

Day 8 Winnemucca to Battle Mountain, NV

The Stats:

Mileage: 54 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 3:23

Average Speed: 16 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1409 ft.

——————————

Today’s’ ride took us from Winnemucca to the metropolis of Battle Mountain NV. (This town makes Lovelock look good)

Yet again we were on Interstate 80 for the whole ride. I know it sounds like a broken record but the weather has been perfect…..I wonder how much longer this can last? One unexpected pleasure is the reaction from total strangers that we meet on the rode. I stopped at a Freeway Rest Area today and a couple stopped me to ask if I was a part of the group of bicyclists that they had observed while driving on the freeway. When I said that I was and that we were bicycling from San Francisco to New Hampshire, the woman hugged me and said how wonderful it was that we were going to try and accomplish such a feat. …. Made my day.

We have 4 riders who are under 35 in our group. They call themselves “Team Scenic” because they are also the slowest of our group. They are really funny and fun to hang with. They have begun handing out daily awards to people in our group that they believe have distinguished themselves in some particular fashion. The winner of this dubious honor must carry or attach a small rubber chicken on their person for the next 24 hours.

-ME

Day 8 Addendum

I just found out and thought I would treat you to one extra little tidbit about Battle Mountain, NV. This town is known as the Armpit of America and the locals are damn proud of it. It seems a Newspaper reporter for the Washington Post was passing through town and he noticed that the “S” in the SHELL gas station sign was burnt out. He figured that about summed up the town so he wrote an article calling Battle Mountain the Armpit of America. A deodorant company caught wind of the article and used the town in one of its’ ads. They hold an Armpit festival here every summer. Make your reservations early as hotel rooms will be at a premium.

-ME

Day 9 Battle Mountain to Elko, NV

The Stats:

Mileage: 76 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:51

Average Speed: 15.5 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2197 ft.

——————————

If this is Monday this must be Elko, NV.

Today’s ride featured a 12 mile climb (Though it wasn’t very steep) with an 8 mile descent and a nice picturesque ride through Carlin Canyon which bypasses a tunnel on Interstate 80. Other than that, it was another typical day in the desert on Interstate 80. Weather and wind were once again favorable.

This might be a good time to catch you up on the road hazards we face.

WAKE UP!…..don’t fall asleep on me, this is important information.

Steel Belted Radial Tire debris:

You’ve all seen it…..a big rig is going down the freeway and one of its tires falls apart throwing pieces along the shoulder of the road. These tire pieces have small diameter steel wires running through them. Consequently, if you run over a piece while on a bike the wires will puncture your bike tire. We’ve had numerous flat tires because of this. I’ve been fortunate not to have gotten one so far.

Rumble Strips:

These are sets of 15 grooves at 20-yard intervals cut into the pavement on the shoulder of the road. The purpose is to alert the driver of a vehicle that they are off the road and are in imminent danger of crashing. But, for a bicycle rider, these rumble strips are pure evil giving us an unwanted butt massage. Fortunately, on the newer pavement, they are no longer placing the rumble strips completely across the shoulder. (I think a group of bicyclists lynched the original engineer)

Mormon Crickets:

There are these huge (2 inches long, 1 inch thick) crickets that sometimes cover the whole road that we ride on. I think they’ve all signed a death pact because they seem to want to jump in front of our tires……not a pretty sight. (Thank god they don’t fly)

Nephew Dan: (If you’re still awake and reading this) You’ll be happy to know Elko hasn’t changed and is still the paradise you remember. Should I pick you up the Real Estate listings so you can plan your move?

Tomorrow is going to be a long day (108 miles) to Wendover, UT and we have to be on the road by 6:00am.

-ME

Day 10 Elko, NV to Wendover, UT

The Stats:

Mileage: 108 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 7:09

Average Speed: 15.0 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3857 ft.

——————————

Today’s 108-mile ride on I80 was from Elko to Wendover (On the border of Nevada and Utah)

The Good:

Only a few miles of Rumble Strips.

The Mormon Crickets took most of the day off (They’re probably preparing the Siege Towers)

The temperature was once again mild (Though it definitely is getting warmer)

There were some great downhills

The Bad:

Since there were some great downhill’s (see above) there were, of course, some long climbs. The slope was not steep but they went on for miles.

The ride was, after all, 108 miles. That’s a lot of saddle time and I’m tired and my butt is sore.

and the Ugly:

The wind shifted directions today and became a headwind…….major bummer.

Mom wanted to know who received the coveted Chicken award yesterday. It seems that Team Scenic (who else) has challenged all riders to have their hair buzz cut. A couple of riders have succumbed to this madness each day. However one rider has taken this challenge to extremes. John, (The cook on a tugboat that I mentioned on a previous email. You do have them all memorized don’t you?), now has a Mohawk with the initials “ABB” (America By Bike) carved in the back. He deserved to win the Chicken for going above and beyond.

In case your wondering: No, no women have yet shaved their heads and whereas I don’t have a buzz cut, it’s still pretty darn short so there has been no pressure on me to go under the clippers.

Tomorrows ride is 117 miles to Salt Lake City where we will receive our first (well deserved) day off. We’ll also be crossing into the Mountain Time Zone.

-ME

Day 11 Wendover to Salt Lake City, UT

The Stats:

Mileage: 117 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 7:51

Average Speed: 14.8 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1095 ft.

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Today was a 117-mile ride from Wendover to Salt Lake City. I started the day by slathering my shorts with Butt Butter. For the uninitiated, Butt Butter or Chamois Butt’r is a creme that helps prevent saddle sores (A condition that makes riding a bike most uncomfortable). We battled 15-20mph crosswinds for the first 60 miles of the ride. (I’d rather do hills). The last 60 miles were much easier and I made good time. I had my first mechanical problem of the trip 72 miles into the ride. My front tire developed a fairly large bubble on it. I was lucky it didn’t blow out. I had to call the Van to come and give me a spare tire. I’m tired and am glad we have tomorrow off.

-ME

Day 12 Salt Lake City, UT

Today we had a rest day in Salt Lake City. After a leisurely breakfast I cleaned my bike then a group of us took a taxi into town. We took in a movie (Harry Potter), went to a bike shop (most of us needed supplies) and took a 30-minute tour of the Mormon Temple. At one point they took us to the room where the Choir practices. In order to demonstrate the great room acoustics they had us sit in the back of room while they dropped a pin at the front. The thought struck me that this would be a bad place to have gas. (I don’t think I would make a good Mormon). At the end of the tour they gave us a card to fill in our name and address so that they can drop by the house and give you a special gift. I wrote in your name Denise, I hope you don’t mind.

It was a good day off and I’m ready to ride again. Tomorrows ride to Provo is fairly short at 64 miles.

-ME

Day 13 Salt Lake City to Provo, UT

The Stats:

Mileage: 66 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:33

Average Speed: 14.4 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1763 ft.

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I had an awesome ride today from Salt Lake to Provo. The weather was perfect, the scenery was great and we were on back roads without a lot of traffic most of the time (No more Interstate 80… YEAH!) The day off really helped everyone and we were together as a pack for a good portion of the day. All in all, a perfect bicycling day.

Tomorrows ride is 75 miles to Price, UT and should be a bit more challenging.

-ME

Day 14 Provo to Price, UT

The Stats:

Mileage: 77 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:18

Average Speed: 14.4 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3468 ft.

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It was a day of contrasts. Our 77-mile ride, on Route 6, took us from the lush landscape of Provo to the high desert of Price. The weather was variable. At times it was sunny, cloudy with thunderstorms (only caught a few sprinkles), calm or very windy (headwinds of course). And of course there were hills to climb. It was a hard workout but very rewarding.

Tomorrows 66-mile ride will take us to Green River. There must be no sign of life between here and there because they’re recommending we pack a bag lunch.

-ME

Day 15 Price to Green River, UT

The Stats:

Mileage: 67 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:03

Average Speed: 16.5 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1137 ft.

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Today’s 67 mile ride took us from Price to Green River (A metropolis of 800 people famous as being the Base Camp for Powell’s exploration of the Grand Canyon…..I visited the Museum) I rode fairly quick on this ride as there was not much to see except desert scrub. The weather is warming up (90+ degrees) but still isn’t too bad and the wind was not much of a factor today. I was finished before 11:30, had lunch, visited the museum, then most of the group vaned to Arches National Park and hiked to The Delicate Arch. I had already done the hike once when I took the mountain bike trip in Moab a couple of years ago, but it really is a spectacular sight and well worth seeing again. Upon returning to the hotel, it was time for more food and lots of it. (We cleaned out another buffet)

Tomorrows ride is 88 miles and will take us out of Utah to Grand Junction, Colorado. We’ve been told that there is no civilization to be seen between here and there.

-ME

Day 16 Green River, UT to Grand Junction, CO

The Stats:

Mileage: 97 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:36

Average Speed: 14.7 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3036 ft.

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It was a cloudy day with a hint of rain in the air when we started today’s 97-mile ride to Grand Junction, Colorado. It was tough going with strong headwinds or crosswinds for the first 60 miles. The cloud cover stayed with us all day so the temperature was pleasantly cool and I only felt a few drops of rain during the ride. The terrain we traveled through was mostly high desert sage until we got to Colorado (around mile 70), thereafter we began to see small trees and bushes gradually changing to grasses and larger trees as we approached Grand Junction.

Normally, my biking style is such that I start off at a relatively slow pace and get faster as the ride wears on and usually I have enough energy left that I can make a good finishing push. Today, however, that finishing kick just wasn’t there and I had to drag my sorry butt to the hotel. (I feel much better now that I’ve had something to eat and have taken a shower)

We have traveled a total of 1150 miles so far. They’re starting to add up and our progress on the map is beginning to look impressive.

Tomorrows ride will find us on our way to Montrose (I know, I’ve never heard of it either). It’s a 69-mile ride and I suspect it will be easy and enjoyable. (Famous last words)

Gotta go Tom and Jeff (father and son) are asking if I want to go have a beer with them.

-ME

Day 17 Grand Junction to Montrose, CO

The Stats:

Mileage: 74 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:04

Average Speed: 14.6 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2623 ft.

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Today was a magnificent day for riding the 74 miles to Montrose. The sun was shining and the sky was clear and blue with just a few puffy white clouds. The temperature was cool to start and was in the mid-70′s at the finish. I was pretty much on “cruise control” for the entire ride and didn’t feel the need to make any great physical effort today. It turns out that Montrose is a nice small town with lots of little downtown shops.

The official route map had us riding on Highway 50 the whole way. However, Sue, one of our riders, lives in Grand Junction and she provided us with an alternate route of bike paths and surface streets that followed the course of the Colorado River and then dumped out on highway 50 at about the 15-mile mark. It added an additional 5 miles to our ride but it was worth it.

[Side Note: Sue has been nicknamed "Sergeant Sue" by our group due to her take charge attitude and her need to follow "the rules". She somehow manages not to be too obnoxious about it though.]

During the past couple of days, the scenery has taken a dramatic change from barren desert to green farmlands. We can now see the Rocky’s beckoning to us in the distance and we will begin our climb of them tomorrow when we ride the 63 miles to Gunnison.

PS: Bill Weidenfeller, one of our riders, has a web site that he is using to chronicle our ride. I have not seen it but there should be pictures and a journal that he updates every day. You can view it on the Web at: www.bikingwithbill.org

-ME

Day 18 Montrose to Gunnison, CO

The Stats:

Mileage: 63 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:12

Average Speed: 12.1 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 4551 ft.

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Today’s 63 mile ride to Gunnison was one of our most difficult to date. It featured two long climbs. The first one was 4 miles and featured hellish headwinds and the second went on for over 7 miles. Michelle, one of out tour leaders, warned us about the morning headwinds and recommended we delay our departure until at least 8:00am. But, we’re experienced macho bike riders and we cannot let daylight slip away like that. So we braved the headwinds and paid big time. At one time I was pedaling downhill and could only reach 9 miles per hour. Fortunately, the headwinds became less fierce the higher we climbed. Other than the early headwinds, the weather was once again perfect. Temperatures in the 70′s and blue sky. The scenery was also spectacular today, which made all the climbing worthwhile and, yes, even enjoyable.

We were offered an optional side trip to Black Canyon National Monument but I declined as it was an additional 9 mile, 2400 foot climb. (I chose wisely). Four members of our group decided to do the option one of whom is known as “Fast Frank”. Frank is a short 145-pound guy from Iowa and at age 64 is also our oldest rider. (also one of our best) Frank has been seen stopping beside the road to pick up miscellaneous items that have been discarded. (i.e. wrenches, screwdrivers, etc……in other words – trash).

So Jerry, (I often ride with Jerry because we go about the same pace), and I have been looking for items that Frank has obviously missed and Jerry presents them to Frank at our evening Route Rap. So far Jerry has given Frank the rusted head of a hammer and some junk jewelry beads.

Tomorrows 66-mile ride takes us to the summit of Monarch Pass which, at an elevation of 11,312 feet, is also the highest pass we will climb on this trip. From there it’s all downhill to the town of Salida.

-ME

Day 19 Gunnison to Salida, CO

The Stats:

Mileage: 66 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:51

Average Speed: 13.7 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3819 ft.

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It was a brisk 39 degrees when we started our 66 mile ride to Salida, Colorado. The ride today featured a gradual uphill climb for the first 34 miles. Along the way we observed many cattle/horse ranches with lush green meadows. It was quite nice.

Then we hit the climb to Monarch Summit. It was a grueling 9 mile climb. The angle of slope wasn’t bad but, combined with the lack of oxygen at this altitude (Monarch Summit is 11,314 feet), it made for hard work. (Thankfully we had no wind working against us today) Upon reaching the Summit a group of us took a Gondola to a higher peak that gave a better view of the surrounding mountains. It was cold at the top ….. 40 degrees…….brrrrr. Man was not meant to be at this altitude….even the trees know better. The 10 mile descent was fantastic! It takes leg muscle to get up the hill but blubber goes downhill real fast. I think I averaged over 40mph….Whoopee!

Tomorrow’s ride is a 95 miler down to Pueblo where we will have our next day off. (I think this ride is mostly downhill)

-ME

Day 20 Salida to Pueblo, CO

The Stats:

Mileage: 102 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:37

Average Speed: 15.3 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2921 ft.

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Today’s 102 mile ride took us into Pueblo, CO.

The Exhilaration:

The first 43 miles of today’s ride were some of the most enjoyable of the trip so far. Route 50 followed the Arkansas River through a marvelous canyon. The scenery was spectacular, the road was generally downhill (My average speed after the first 43 miles was 18.5mph), and the weather was good (Sunshine and little wind)

The Shrug:

Some of us elected to take the option to view Royal Gorge as long as we were in the neighborhood. It added an additional 7 miles and 1200 feet of climb to today’s ride. Royal Gorge features a suspension bridge that is supposed to be the highest in the world (It is an awfully long way down to the river)

The Bummer:

The last 50 miles we were once again in high desert with nothing interesting to see. The terrain also featured rolling hills so we were constantly going up a hill then down a hill (doesn’t make for pedaling efficiency). The headwinds were also back and there was ominous black sky whenever I looked back over my left shoulder. I was racing a storm front and I just made it to the hotel when it began to drizzle.

Tomorrow’s a day off but we have a 121 mile day on Sunday, (Our longest mileage day of the trip), followed by a 104 mile day on Monday.

-ME

Day 21 Pueblo, CO

Rest day in Pueblo

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For my day off in Pueblo I slept in till 6:30 (A big luxury on this trip) I then had a leisurely breakfast with some of the group. Around 10:00 Susan, a friend from my Zilog days now living in Colorado Springs, picked me up to give me tour of some of the highlights in her town. We took a very slow drive through the Zoo up to the Will Roger’s Shrine on or near Cheyenne Mountain. From the Shrine, there are excellent views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Very neat. We then journeyed to the “Garden of the Gods” which is only minutes from her house. We hiked through pillars of massive red rock that nature has turned on end. A spectacular place that is well worth the visit.

From there, we went back to Susan’s house, (This is a big house at over 4700 feet and it cost less than what my house would sell for), and were greeted by husband Chris and children Christie and Brian (Adam, their oldest child is hiking in New Mexico). Brian couldn’t wait to show me his room as he had just rearranged it to make his entertainment center more functional. Christie asked if she could call me “Detective Dan Man”. I know not why. I thought it was kinda cute. She also let me hold her pet mouse named Todd (with two d’s). They have a whole menagerie of pets. Gecko’s, mice, lizards, birds, cat and a dog named Daisy. Daisy is a beagle that hasn’t skipped a meal in a while. If any food is near enough for her to smell she will be right on it. Susan cooked dinner (I got to choose the menu). We had filet, baked potato, corn on the cob, garlic bread and, for dessert, homemade apple pie ala mode. It was a feast and I give a big thanks to my hosts, Susan and Chris.

-ME

Day 22 Pueblo to Lamar, CO

The Stats:

Mileage: 122 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 7:31

Average Speed: 16.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1024 ft.

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Today’s 122 mile, (longest mileage day of this trip), ride took us to Lamar, Colorado.

I rode all day with “Team Scenic” and Company. There were 8 of us and we formed a pace line. (A pace line is formed when a group of riders line up in a line. The lead rider cuts through the wind and the other riders “draft” behind. Wind resistance for the trailing riders is decreased significantly. After a mile, the lead rider rotates to the back of the group). We made very good time for the first 83 miles until we were about 2 miles outside of Las Animas, where we got slammed by a Thunderstorm. A little bit of hail, a lot of rain and wind. By the time we got to a Dairy Queen in Las Animas we were thoroughly soaked (There’s nothing quite like the feeling of having squishy socks) Needless to say we had lunch, dried out a little and waited out the storm, which did not last long. Upon restarting, the head/crosswinds were back and they stayed with us for the remainder of the ride……wind is really the pits!

Tomorrow’s 104 mile ride will take us out of Colorado and into Garden City, Kansas (Now why do I think that I’m not going to be thinking of gardens when we get there?)

-ME

Day 23 Lamar, CO to Garden City, KS

The Stats:

Mileage: 104 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 7:13

Average Speed: 14.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 778 ft.

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Today’s 104 mile ride to the inappropriately named Garden City, Kansas is what I am calling the “Ah Crap” ride.

Woke up at 4:00am due to the sound of rain on the hotel roof……….Ah Crap

Went to get on the bike and rear tire is flat……….Ah Crap

104 miles to ride after 121 miles yesterday………Ah Crap

Overcast sky and threat of rain……Ah Crap

Headwinds at mile 0……….Ah Crap

Eastern Colorado scenery reminiscent of Los Banos on a continual loop…….Ah Crap

Western Kansas scenery and odor reminiscent of Harris Ranch on a continual loop……..Ah Crap

Avoiding anything flying from the vent holes in the cattle trucks passing you on highway 50………Ah Crap

Headwinds continue to mile 104…..Ah Crap x 104

Not all was bad:

The temperature remained cool and we did not get rained on.

Mason had his 29th birthday and we celebrated with cake and drinks after the ride.

As I sit here relaxing in my room and writing to you, my oh so bored readers, I realize that even after my “Ah Crap” day I am very content and there is nothing I’d rather be doing than experiencing this adventure.

Tomorrow’s 52 mile ride (one of our shortest) will take us to Dodge City.

PS: We have now crossed into the central time zone so I am now 2 hours ahead of real, (West Coast), time

It looks like I have once again lost a digital data network signal so this will be sent at a later date.

-ME

Day 24 Garden City to Dodge, KS

The Stats:

Mileage: 52 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 3:39

Average Speed: 14.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 381 ft.

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Today’s 52 mile ride took us into Dodge City, Kansas. The headwinds were against us once again, but at least it was only 52 miles (almost like having a day off) and I was at the Hotel by 11:30. There was a lot of time to clean up and head into old Dodge. David and I visited Boot Hill and the associated museum (was quite interesting…….Dodge was a pretty wild town back in the old days)

Now for some of my thoughts about Kansas:

You know you’re in Kansas if:

When you step out of the hotel to breath that clean country air, you instead smell the sweet perfume of “Ode de Manure”

There are more cattle trucks passing you on Route 50 than SUV’s

You see a sign on the highway directing you to a scenic outlook and when you get there you find that you’re overlooking a Stockyard (I kid you not, I couldn’t make this stuff up……I even got the postcard)

Your Route Sheet indicates that your next SAG (Rest) stop is located by a water tower and there is no need to elaborate as you can see the darn thing from miles away.

Every small town you pass through has a Dairy Queen (and it’s the best place for vittles)

Starbucks is nowhere to be seen

When looking at a historical marker for “Santa Fe Trail Tracks” you read the following text and nod your head in sad acknowledgement: “Here it seems the wind always blows. Some claim it drove settlers insane.”

I was awarded the coveted chicken tonight for “lowering” myself to ride with Team Scenic a couple of days ago. I bought a Dodge City Deputy Marshal badge to pin on its chest and I’ll proudly put it on display during tomorrows ride.

A bunch of us went into town after rustling up some grub to watch the “Long Branch Variety Show starring Miss Kitty and her Can-Can Girls” at the Boot Hill Museum. I had a lot of fun today……..I wonder how I can put a garter belt on the chicken?

Tomorrow we’re “getting out of Dodge” and riding 86 miles to Great Bend, Kansas.

HEE HAW!!

-ME

Day 25 Dodge to Great Bend, KS

The Stats:

Mileage: 86 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:10

Average Speed: 16.5 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 280 ft.

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Today’s 86 mile ride took us outta Dodge and into Great Bend, Kansas.

It was a good day for riding. The air was calm (Yeah!….no headwinds), cool and overcast. The road was in very good condition with wide shoulders so we were able to chat while riding 2 abreast and the miles flowed by. There’s still no mistaking that this is Kansas with all it’s associated sites, sounds and smell though.

Tomorrow we ride 64 miles to McPherson, Kansas.

-ME

Day 26 Great Bend to McPherson, KS

The Stats:

Mileage: 65 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:13

Average Speed: 15.3 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 490 ft.

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Today’s easy 65 mile, (I was cruising without a lot of effort), ride took us from Great Bend to McPherson, Kansas.

We started out under threatening sky and a mild crosswind. The day was cool, (around 70 degrees), but very humid. The locals say we’re extremely lucky as it’s usually at least 20 degrees warmer this time of year. I somehow managed not to get rained on during the ride but it was a close thing. The countryside is slowly changing. I did not see, (or smell), even one Stockyard today (though the cattle trucks are ever present), and the land has developed some gentle rolls to add interest to the never ending farmland.

The highlight of the day:

A former ABB tour leader lives in Lyons, Kansas (about the mid-point of today’s ride). He treated us to hot cinnamon roles and coffee and took us on a tour of: (OK, now don’t get jealous or envious and please don’t book the next flight out here) A Grain Elevator ……that’s right, one of those things in the middle of nowhere that rises several stories in the air. All joking aside, it was pretty interesting and I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience it. (and, most importantly, the cinnamon roles were delicious)

Tomorrow’s 64 mile ride will take us to Abilene, Kansas.

-ME

Day 27 McPherson to Abilene, KS

The Stats:

Mileage: 64 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:00

Average Speed: 16.0 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 587 ft.

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Today’s 64 mile ride took us from McPherson to Abilene, Kansas.

The day started out gray and foggy and about 20 miles into the ride a warm gentle rain began to fall. I don’t think we’ve seen the sun since arriving in Kansas. I’m not complaining though, as the cloud cover keeps the temperature pleasant. We finally got off Route 56 and onto country roads so there was not much traffic and we were able to use the whole lane to ride on. The scenery was pleasing with lush farmland and gently rolling hills. Eastern Kansas is so much nicer than the western part of the state. Today we also passed the mid-point of our journey. I’ve traveled 1948 miles so far.

Yesterday, one of the employees of the hotel we were staying out asked me what I thought of Kansas. I was desperately searching for something nice to say, but was drawing a blank. I finally responded: “Well, it’s definitely different than California”. One thing I can say about Kansas, the people are friendly and the cars and trucks generally go out of their way to give bicyclists room when passing. These folk also like their 4th of July fireworks. There are firework stands all over the place. I’m not talking about your namby pamby “Safe and Sane” fireworks, I’m talking REAL fireworks (Roman Candles, firecrackers, bottle rockets, M-80′s, etc.) Does my heart proud to know that some states still honor tradition.

“Abilene, Abilene

Prettiest town that I’ve ever seen”

I don’t think the song was about Abilene, Kansas but it is the nicest town we’ve stayed at since arriving in Kansas. It’s even home to the Greyhound Hall of Fame.

As I’m writing this entry, it has just begun to pour down rain…..I’m talking major deluge…glad I’m warm and dry and not riding right now. A few of my new friends rode back into town. Hmmm, I wonder if they got caught in the downpour….I can’t help it…….it must be my perverse nature but I’m laughing out loud at the thought.

Dinner tonight was at “La Fiesta Mexican Restaurant”. Since I have superior taste buds, I declined to partake and sought sustenance at Joe Snuffy’s Restaurant…….mucho better.

Tomorrow’s ride is 108 miles and will bring us to Topeka, the state capital.

-ME

Day 28 Abilene to Topeka, KS

The Stats:

Mileage: 111 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 7:16

Average Speed: 15.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3939 ft.

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Today’s 111 mile ride took us from Abilene to Topeka, Kansas.

This is the first day since arriving in Kansas that the sun has made its presence known. The day started pleasant enough. The temperature was comfortable, if a tad bit humid, and the terrain was rolling hillsides covered with lush grass or planted with corn and other crops. I rode all day with David. (you, of course, remember David from all the notes you have taken?…What?….no notes?…..OK, just to refresh your fading memories, David is a Radiologist from Syracuse, NY who recently celebrated his 60th birthday….his wife and twin daughters flew into Salt Lake City to surprise him). We were riding on mostly deserted country roads so we had time to solve all the world’s problems during the first 35 miles of riding up and down the rolling hills. The next 35 miles were spent talking about our current adventure and other trips we had taken while continuing to ride up and down the seemingly unending hills. The next 20 miles were spent thinking and talking about the homemade pie we were promised when we got to Dover, (population ~ 25), at mile 92, (food is our inspiration), while still going up and down those damn rolling hills…….it’s also starting to get hot and humid. The pie was excellent (I had 2 pieces). During the last 19 miles it’s definitely hot and humid as we grunt at each other while going up and down the @&!%$#! rolling hills.

It was a long and tiring day but I feel pretty good and will be ready to ride again tomorrow.

Tomorrow is the 4th of July and it has been suggested that we may want to decorate our bikes to celebrate the occasion. Well, you readers who know me so well, probably think “flamboyant” should be my middle name and will undoubtedly be shocked to know that I won’t be participating in this activity. I will be wearing my Red, White and Blue helmet and ABB Jersey (decorated with an American flag design) though.

Tomorrow’s 89 mile ride will take us out of Kansas to St. Joseph, Missouri where we will receive our 3rd day off.

-ME

Day 29 Topeka, KS to St. Joseph, MO

The Stats:

Mileage: 89 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:54

Average Speed: 15.0 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3050 ft.

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“I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore Toto”

Today’s 89 mile ride took us from Topeka, Kansas to St. Joseph, Missouri.

Some of our group went all out in decorating themselves and their bikes in celebration of the 4th of July. A lot of the people in cars were honking and waving as they passed us. It was all quite fun and I think I got some pretty good video footage.

The day started with bright sunshine and pleasant temperatures…..a great day for a bike ride. The going was fairly easy in the early stages with long rolling hills (not the short rollers that I complained about yesterday). The landscape changed considerably once we crossed the Missouri river into Western Missouri. There are now thick clusters of trees and the short rolling hills are back but they are much steeper than in Kansas. (I’m told that I should get used to them because I’m going to be seeing a lot of them over the next several days…..Oh goody)

David, (who I ended up riding with again today and who also won 1st place in the decoration contest), and I arrived at the hotel around 2:00 and immediately set out to find food. We ended up at a Steakhouse where we each ordered up a Filet, baked potato, baked beans and lemonade (3 tall glasses full). We, of course, topped off our lunch with a bowl of ice cream (I’ve been eating a lot of ice cream on this trip……the body seems to crave it). This snack would serve to hold us till dinner. (Sizzler)

Tomorrow is a day off and I don’t know what I’m going to do yet. I’ll probably decide at breakfast tomorrow.

We pick up two new riders on Tuesday and lose one. “Sergeant” Sue left our little group today. (Four other riders left us in Pueblo)

-ME

Day 30 St. Joseph, MO

Day off in Saint Joseph, MO

Today was our third day off since starting this trip. Being able to sleep in is not a big luxury to me. I’m usually up early anyway and today was no exception…I was up by 6:00am.

I started the day off with breakfast at the hotel buffet. A group of around 10 of us decided to go into town to take in the local history. Now pay attention, I’m going to be giving you some important historical information that will greatly enhance your life.

We visited the Pony Express Museum first. (The Pony Express carried mail between St. Joseph and Sacramento in as little as 10 days) From all the movies and books written about it you would have assumed that the Pony Express had a major impact on communication in the old west……wrong……the Pony Express only lasted 19 months and was a financial disaster. It was soon supplanted by the telegraph.

We next visited the house where Jessie James was shot (doesn’t sound interesting……..it lives up to my expectations)

We then visited the Patee House Museum. This was a huge museum with everything you can imagine in it. Trains, cars, guns, old clothing, spittoon collections, telephones, old furniture, etc. If you like old things, this was the place to be. The scary thing was, I saw an erector set being displayed that I remember from my childhood…..must have been placed there by mistake.

After a couple of hours of this I was all museum’d out and it was time to eat again anyway. After lunch I went to a movie (Spiderman 2…….very good, I recommend it). Had an ice cream cone while walking back to the hotel.

I got to talking to Josh, a 17 year old here at the hotel. It seems he and his family has been living at the hotel for the past 6 weeks. Their house in Albany, MO was destroyed by a Tornado and is being rebuilt. It’ll probably be a couple of more months before they have their house back. Needless to say, the kids are all bored stiff. Glad it’s not me.

Its been a good day off and it’s time to go……..dinner calls……..I think I’ll have BBQ tonight.

-ME

Day 31 St. Joseph to Chillicothe, MO

The Stats:

Mileage: 71 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:19

Average Speed: 16.4 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2299 ft.

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Today’s 71 mile ride took us from Saint Joseph to Chillicothe, MO.

We were an hour late leaving our hotel today due to a thunderstorm passing through. It was cool and humid throughout the ride but we didn’t get very wet. The rolling farmland hills continued, but they weren’t very steep today. The conditions of the roads here in Missouri are the worst we have experienced to date. I think Gerard, (The Frenchmen), said it best: “Thiz iway iz crap”. For the first 40 miles, the asphalt on the shoulder we were supposed to ride on was so deteriorated that some parts were just sand and gravel. We had two people crash today. Tom (IA) just tore his glove….nothing serious. But, Clifford (MD), who just joined the tour today, fell and has some significant road rash……what a way to begin the tour. I had just replaced my rear tire 2 days ago (worn out), and I’ve now got a big gash in the new one so I’ll have to replace it again…… bummer. The highway condition improved significantly for the last 30 miles and I was able to make good time (we had a tailwind today)

Tomorrows 82 mile ride will take us to Kirksville, MO. I am told this will be a fairly difficult ride as there are hundreds of small steep hills we must climb.

-ME

Day 32 Chillicothe to Kirksville, MO

The Stats:

Mileage: 83 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:38

Average Speed: 14.6 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 4759 ft. (Not sure my altimeter is correct as there was only supposed to be around 2700 feet of climb today)

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Today’s 83 mile ride to us from Chillicothe to Kirksville, MO.

One of the local attractions here (perhaps the only one) is “Thousand Hill State Park”. I assure you, my faithful readers, that I personally inspected every one of those hills today. (Okay, okay, maybe not 1000 but I think it was in the neighborhood of 250) They came at us like ocean waves. You’d crest one hill and see a whole line of them awaiting you…..up we go…..and down we go….and up we go….

The scenery was actually very nice today (small farms and towns) and the weather was fabulous (temperature in the 70′s with a slight tailwind most of the time) Despite the hills, it was a good day to be on the bike.

The chicken has made quite a transformation during the past couple of days. David (NY) got it a couple of days ago and decided it needed a makeover to better reflect the part of the country we are passing through. The chicken now is dressed in a GI Joe outfit complete with an M16. It is riding on a John Deer tractor with “NRA” and “Show Me” emblazoned on the back (it also still sports the Deputy Marshall badge)….. Most fitting.

Tomorrow’s 96 mile ride will take us out of Missouri and into Quincy, Illinois.

-ME

Day 33 Kirksville, MO to Quincy, IL

The Stats:

Mileage: 97 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:48

Average Speed: 14.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3679 ft.

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Today’s 97 mile ride took us from Kirksville, MO to Quincy, IL.

It was one of the most difficult rides we have had to date. The Missouri rolling hills were back (I think we saw the remainder of the 1000 hills we missed yesterday). The condition of the roads was atrocious. It was cloudy and very cool (almost cold) with periods of rain and, oh yes, the headwinds were back. (Did I mention it was also 97 miles?) At the 50 mile mark a group of us rolled into the town of Williamstown (population ~ 200). We were in need of snacks but there weren’t any food stores or restaurants. There was an animal feed store so we checked it out as a possible food source. As it turned out, they did have candy bars and pastries so we were able to fortify ourselves until we could find a place for lunch. We got to talking with the proprietor of the store. He took a look at our Route Map and asked, “Why are you going this way? There’s nothing but rolling hills and the road is bad.” (We could only hang our heads and nod) He then proceeded to show us a better route. We looked at each other and we all decided to mutiny and abandon the designated route in favor of the new one. We informed one of the tour leaders of our decision and proceeded on our way. The new route had much better pavement and fewer hills. (We chose wisely) At the town of Canton, MO, (mile 71), we grabbed a sandwich and ate it on the Ferry as we crossed the Mighty Mississippi” into Illinois. We were all happy to be leaving Missouri with its crummy roads and rolling hills behind us. Conditions changed for the better in Illinois. The roads were smooth and the rolling hills disappeared. Nirvana! We hauled our weary butts the last 27 miles into Quincy.

Chinese food was on the buffet circuit tonight. So I, once again, blew it off and went to get some “Real” food. (I was joined by 4 other mutineers) I had baby back ribs and they were delicious.

Tomorrow’s 101 mile ride will take us to Springfield, IL.

I am once again getting a poor digital data signal so this email will probably be late.

-ME

Day 34 Quincy to Springfield, IL

The Stats:

Mileage: 101 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:00

Average Speed: 16.8 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2188 ft.

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Today’s 101 mile ride took us from Quincy to the state capital of Springfield, IL.

It was cloudy and very humid with no wind when we began our journey this morning. I rode most of the day with Jerry (WA), David (NY) and Jim (FL). David set the early pace and we were able to make really good time. The countryside in this section of Illinois is mostly corn fields……really BIG corn fields as far as the eye can see. The gently rolling land is quite nice and somehow comforting. One thing I’ve noticed is that people in these parts take great pride in their lawns. Every farm has great swaths of lawn that must take forever to cut even with the ever present riding lawn mowers. As the day passed, the cloud cover began to give way to sun and it’s associated heat. Heat with humidity is not a great combination for bicycling. At one point I stopped in the community of Berlin to stretch and grab a little snack. To my chagrin, I could not open the wrapping on my cereal bar because my hands were so sweaty I couldn’t get a good grip….I finally resorted to using my teeth. (food will not be denied) We managed to get to the hotel before 1:00pm. (We were the first ones in) Unfortunately, my room was not ready until after 4:00pm …. bummer …..I really needed a shower.

Tomorrow’s 103 mile ride, (we’re really racking up some high mileage days), will take us to Champaign, IL.

-ME

Day 35 Springfield to Champaign, IL

The Stats:

Mileage: 104 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 7:15

Average Speed: 14.3 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 755 ft.

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Today’s 104 mile ride took us from Springfield to Champaign, IL.

This ride through the cornfields of Illinois was tiring if not particularly difficult. The day was once again very humid and we had headwinds and bad roads that hindered our progress considerably. I was glad when I made it to the hotel today.

Chinese buffet again tonight. Went to Anderson’s Steak House and it was good. This time I converted five others to the dark side.

It was Gerard’s (France) 50th birthday so we had Champagne and cake to celebrate here in Champaign, IL.

OK, which one of you miscreants spilled the beans about my middle name to Meg? Bill says he intends to publish it on his web site. After all I’ve done to enrich your mundane lives, this is the thanks I get? So fess up now because I will find out. Revenge will be mine and it shall be sweet.

Tomorrow’s 80 mile ride, (at least it’s not another century ride), will take us out of Illinois to Crawfordsville, Indiana.

-ME

Day 36 Champaign, IL to Crawfordsville, IN

The Stats:

Mileage: 81 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:56

Average Speed: 16.1 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1286 ft.

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Today’s 81 mile ride took us from Champaign, IL to Crawfordsville, IN.

I have now traveled a total of 2,686 miles.

The weather report called for hot and very humid conditions with afternoon thunderstorms. I decided to skip the restaurant breakfast and opt for the hotel’s continental breakfast instead. I figured this would get me out at least 45 minutes earlier and that maybe I would miss some of the heat and thunderstorms. (There’s no way to beat the humidity, as it is ever present). I rode by myself, as I was the only one to skip the restaurant breakfast. I made good time and I was at the first SAG stop before the support van. I stopped at a convenience store for a cold drink and a pastry before pushing on. I also arrived at the second SAG stop, (convenience store), before the support van but it pulled up as I was preparing to leave. I made it to our hotel before 12:00pm. Unfortunately, the luggage had not yet arrived so I went across the street to have lunch at Burger King. While eating, a thunderstorm let loose with a tremendous deluge. I was really glad I didn’t get caught in it.

The countryside in Indiana is much the same as Illinois, a lot of big cornfields and small farms. One thing I’ve noticed is that there are a lot of cemeteries in these parts. Every small town has one and sometimes two of them on the main road. The dead definitely outnumber the living in these parts. While entering the town of Hillsboro, IN., I took note of the following sign: “Welcome to Hillsboro. The home of 600 happy people and a few old soreheads” Worthy of a smile and a chuckle.

I’ve been informed that it was my darling sister, Denise, who informed Meg of my middle name……there will be a reckoning.

Tomorrow’s 64 mile ride will take us to Indianapolis where we will receive another day off.

Yet another non-digital data network day, so today’s journal will be late in coming.

-ME

Day 37 Crawfordsville to Indianapolis, IN

The Stats:

Mileage: 67 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:24

Average Speed: 15.2 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 963 ft.

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Today’s 67 mile ride took us from Crawfordsville to Indianapolis, Indiana.

This was a great day to ride. The weather was cooperating with some cloud cover, no rain and a tailwind though the humidity is ever present. Since today was a short ride we made several interesting stops along the way:

Roark Bike Factory:

There’s a small metal fabrication shop in Brownsburg that hand makes custom titanium bike frames and we were given a tour of the production area. Very impressive craftsmanship but at $2200 for just the frame and fork, I don’t think I’ll be ordering one anytime soon. (For those female readers that think this would be a very boring stop, think of it as the bicyclist’s equivalent of a custom hand made shoe factory.)

Indianapolis Motor Speedway:

If you’re in Indianapolis you must visit the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, (I think it’s a state law), home of the Indianapolis 500. I’m not really into car racing but there were cars doing some test runs while we were there and it’s quite impressive to see a car zoom past at 180 miles per hour. We also visited the museum, which featured race cars from the early 1900′s to present day.

Major Taylor Velodrome:

The next stop on our list was a Velodrome, (an oval angled track used for bicycle racing), where we got the chance to see what we could do with our own bicycles. (I was getting tired after only 2 laps)

Upon entering Indianapolis we, (Jerry, David, Dennis and I), almost immediately got lost and ended up on a marvelous canal winding it’s way through town. This “river walk” is really well done and I think I will go back and explore it further tomorrow.

Tomorrow is an off day and, since our hotel is located in the heart of the downtown, I will probably just meander around.

-ME

Day 38 Indianapolis, IN

Day Off in Indianapolis

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I started off this morning by going to Starbucks for a Latte (This is only the second time during this whole trip that I’ve been able to indulge in what is normally my morning habit) Since this Starbucks is located in the Indiana Pacers Basketball Arena, I had this HUGE basketball hanging over my head…..really quite unnerving.

I spent most of the morning just wandering through the city which is really very nice with lots of open space parks and the “canal walk” that I mentioned in yesterday’s email. I met up with John (MA) for lunch. After lunch, it was starting to get hot and humid so Jerry (WA), Frank (IA), Ken (CT) and I went to the IMAX theatre and viewed “Bug 3D”. A 45 minute film that was sponsored by Terminix. For dinner, I went to a German restaurant with Jerry, Tom (IA) and his wife and daughter who had driven out from Iowa. We had a pleasant time. Life is good.

Tomorrow’s 73 mile ride will take us to Richmond, Indiana.

-ME

Day 39 Indianapolis to Richmond, IN

The Stats:

Mileage: 72 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:14

Average Speed: 16.8 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1417 ft.

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Today’s 72 mile ride took us from Indianapolis to Richmond, Indiana.

Flat smooth roads under a partly cloudy sky, a moderate temperature and a strong tailwind combined to make this one of the easiest and enjoyable rides we’ve had. We passed through a number of small towns along our route and it’s obvious that the further east we go the more prosperous the towns are becoming.

Brantley, (one of the tour mechanics), advised us to take it easy today because we will be riding almost 400 miles during the next 4 days. (ouch…..hurts my butt just thinking about it)

Tomorrows 105 mile ride will take us out of Indiana to Marysville, Ohio. (where we will lose another hour due to changing time zones)

-ME

Day 40 Richmond, IN to Marysville, OH

The Stats:

Mileage: 106 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:36

Average Speed: 16.1 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2216 ft.

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Today’s 106 mile ride took us from Richmond, Indiana to Marysville, Ohio.

The weather has definitely taken a turn for the better. Partly cloudy skies with moderate temperatures, tolerable humidity and predominate tailwinds make for enjoyable riding. I rode in a large group, (12 riders), for the first 62 miles of the ride. We were on country back roads so we were able to ride 2 abreast and chat while riding past farms and small communities. After stopping for lunch at a small cafe, David and I split off from the main group and motored into the hotel at a pretty good pace.

I will be presenting Tom (IA) with a pair of fold-up reading glasses at tonight’s Route Rap. I went out to dinner with Tom and his wife and daughter in Indianapolis and Tom was having a hard time reading the menu so I lent him my reading glasses. His daughter commented that he was in denial.

I lost another hour due to crossing into Ohio, (Eastern Daylight Time), today. I am now 3 hours ahead of “real” time (Pacific Daylight Time)

Tomorrow’s ride is a 104 miler and will take us to Wooster, Ohio.

-ME

Day 41 Marysville to Wooster, OH

The Stats:

Mileage: 105 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:40

Average Speed: 16.0 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3890 ft.

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Today’s 105 mile ride took us from Marysville to Wooster, Ohio.

It was a pleasant day with excellent weather, enjoyable scenery and good companionship. I rode, once again, with David who was really feeling good because he set a wicked pace. We were joined by Dennis (MA) after the first SAG stop and we continued to chew up the miles until hitting the steep rolling hills around mile 70. Our pace slowed considerably over the last 35 miles (The last 5 miles were really a drag and I was pretty tired upon reaching the hotel.) Come tomorrow, I’ll probably regret having expended so much energy to maintain today’s fast pace. One thing I’ve learned is that by riding day after day your body never has time to fully recover so the amount of effort you expend today will affect tomorrow’s performance.

Dale (AZ), who joined our group in Springfield, Illinois, was clipped by the right hand mirror of a car while passing through the town of Delaware, OH. He was spun off his bike and fell in some weeds and grass by the side of the road. (The driver of the car never stopped) He fractured his collarbone but is in good spirits and he hopes to ride again soon. (With a fracture, he may be able to.)

Tomorrow’s 91 mile ride will take us to Austintown, Ohio.

-ME

Day 42 Wooster to Austintown, OH

The Stats:

Mileage: 91 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:14

Average Speed: 14.6 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3092 ft.

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Today’s 91 mile ride took us from Wooster to Austintown, Ohio.

It was dark, gloomy, cool and drizzling when we started our ride today. The winds also took a turn for the worse and blew from the east today. (thankfully, it was not a strong wind) The light rain stayed with us for the first 30 miles, then it let up but the cloud cover and threat of rain remained for the entire ride. It’s too bad because Ohio, with its green rolling hills, really is one of the more beautiful states we have traveled through. As expected, I paid today for my fast pace of yesterday. My legs were tired and I didn’t have a lot of energy. (Being damp and soggy all day probably didn’t help my energy level either) I rode today with David and John (MA). I prefer to ride with a small group, (2-4 people), because there is less potential of an accident like the one that befell Bill today. It also takes a long time for a large group of people to get moving after a stop.

I know I’ve mentioned this before, but I still can’t get over the fixation these people have for their lawns. Even today, in spite of the bad weather, there were people out weeding and mowing their acreage. There really must be nothing else to do around these parts.

As I mentioned, we had another accident today. Bill, (of www.bicyclingwithbill.org fame), collided with Tom (IA) and fell dislocating his thumb. It was quickly popped back in place and Bill continued the ride. He’s got an ace bandage wrapped around it now and he should be OK to ride tomorrow.

Tomorrow’s 96 mile ride will have us saying goodbye to Ohio and hello to Erie, Pennsylvania where we will have our fifth, and final, day off.

-ME

Day 43 Austintown, OH to Erie, PA

The Stats:

Mileage: 98 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 6:14

Average Speed: 15.7 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1818 ft.

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Today’s 98 mile ride took us from Austintown, Ohio to Erie, Pennsylvania.

More cool temperatures, a gray sky and moderate headwinds awaited us at the start of today’s ride. I rode with a group of 8 riders for most of the day. This was one of those days where you just put your head down and ride and hope you get to the hotel before the rain comes. Fortunately, we were 80 miles into the ride before it began to rain and it stopped within a few minutes. This was also one of those rides where I felt physically better towards the end of the ride then I did at the start. (go figure) The highlight of the ride was our lunch stop in Conneaut, Ohio at the White Turkey Drive-In (An old fashioned open-air root beer stand) I had a hot dog, fries and a root beer float and it was good. (It’s life’s simple pleasures)

We had another rider accident today. Steve (CO) fell while riding in a street construction zone and is sporting a big black and blue bruise on his thigh. He’s fine, but I’m sure he’ll be a little sore tomorrow.

The city of Erie seems to have a fixation on Frogs. I’m not talking the live jumping kind, I mean statues in all shapes, sizes, (mostly big …. I’m talking 6 feet tall), and themes. (They’re painted and dressed up). There are dozens of them lining the city sidewalks.

Tomorrow is a day off so some of us are planning to take a ferry to an island park on Lake Erie. (if the weather cooperates)

-ME

Day 44 Erie, PA

Day Off in Erie

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The day started with a dark overcast sky and I thought for sure it was going to rain. Fortunately, the sky cleared as the day wore on and we had a pleasant sunny afternoon. I started off this morning by going to Starbucks for a Latte followed by breakfast at a local diner with Joyce (MA), Dennis (MA) and Steve (CO….and brother of Joyce). I then cleaned and lubed my bike preparing it for the final leg of my journey. Later, Jerry (WA) and I walked down to the waterfront and visited the Maritime Museum (mostly exhibits about the War of 1812). We then decided to take a water taxi to Pasque Island and were joined by Tom (IA) and Mike (IN). Pasque Island is home to a pleasant park where you can walk, bike or take a swim in Lake Erie. After wandering around for an hour we returned to Erie via Water Taxi in time for lunch at a waterfront restaurant.

As a city, Erie is past it’s prime and seems dreary and run down, (despite the cool 6 foot frogs), and I would never consider living here.

Tomorrow’s 82 mile ride will take us out of Pennsylvania (that was quick) and to Hamburg, New York.

Gotta go, I promised David I’d meet him in the lobby at 6:30 for dinner.

-ME

Day 45 Erie, PA to Hamburg, NY

The Stats:

Mileage: 84 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:59

Average Speed: 16.7 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1765 ft.

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Today’s 84 mile ride took us from Erie, Pennsylvania to Hamburg, New York.

Beautiful weather, (warm, mostly sunny with the all important tailwind), smooth roads, delightful scenery and good company made for a very enjoyable ride today. Our route had us following the southern shoreline of Lake Erie. The countryside has changed from farmland to vineyards and scattered homes surrounded by trees and meadows.

I took advantage of the opportunity to visit a bicycle museum after today’s ride. The owner gave us a personal tour and was very knowledgeable about the evolution of the bicycle. Wow, this museum had every type of bike you can imagine. From the original bikes that you moved with your feet on the ground (like the Flintstones car) to the old big-wheeled bikes (some idiot actually rode one of these across the USA in the late 1800′s) and all the way up to the modern era. Way cool.

Tomorrow’s 94 mile ride will take us to Canandaigua, NY. I look forward to visiting with my nephew Ed and family while there.

-ME

Day 46 Hamburg to Canandaigua, NY

The Stats:

Mileage: 96 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:48

Average Speed: 16.5 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 3946 ft.

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Today’s 96 mile ride took us from Hamburg to Canandaigua, New York.

The early morning was sultry with the promise of the heat and humidity to come. I decided to get out early to beat the worst of the weather and because I was to meet with my nephew Ed and his family upon reaching Canandaigua.

I rode most of the way with Tom, Jerry, Jim and Ken. Our pace was swift and the only stops we made were at the two scheduled SAG stops to eat some snacks and refill our water bottles. After the second SAG stop, Tom & Jim pulled away from the rest of us as I realized I could not maintain their pace without exhausting myself. (Remember my mantra…..No Pain, No Pain).

As it turns out, it did no good to arrive at the hotel early because the luggage van would not arrive for another hour after I arrived. (I should have gone slower and had lunch in town rather than at a Wendy’s near the hotel)

I didn’t pay a lot of attention to the scenery today but I know it was green and there were an awful lot of rolling hills.

I had a great visit with nephew Ed, his lovely wife Julie and their children, Darlene, Emily and Joey. It has been 7 years since I last saw them and it was a special treat for me to see them again. I was treated to an excellent meal and good conversation …….ain’t family grand?

Tomorrow’s 63 mile ride will take us to Syracuse, NY where pal David has arranged a dinner cruise for all of us on one of the finger lakes.

-ME

Day 47 Canandaigua to Syracuse, NY

The Stats:

Mileage: 64 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:08

Average Speed: 15.3 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 2056 ft.

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Today’s 64 mile ride took us from Canandaigua to Syracuse, New York.

Since today’s ride was relatively short, we all stated out as a mass group and set out on a pretty slow pace. We stayed pretty well bunched up until after the first SAG stop where we broke down into smaller groups. About 9:30am we passed an outdoor root beer stand that was not yet open but the owner was persuaded to open early when our group of 20 bicyclists pulled up. It was VERY humid today and the cold root beer was very good.

The countryside is very pretty here with rolling hills, small towns, large finger lakes and plenty of golf courses.

As mentioned in yesterday’s journal, tonight we had a dinner cruise on Lake Skaneateles, (one of the finger lakes), arranged by David, (and his wife), who live here in Syracuse. It was a warm and pleasant night with good food and even better company and a good time was had by all.

It’s getting well past my bedtime, (almost 10:30pm), so I think I’ll sign off until tomorrow.

Tomorrow’s 85 mile ride will take us to Little Falls, NY.

-ME

Day 48 Syracuse to Little Falls, NY

The Stats:

Mileage: 88 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:18

Average Speed: 16.4 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1735 ft.

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Today’s 88 mile ride took us from Syracuse to Little Falls, New York.

It was overcast with light fog and the humidity was almost overbearing today. (If it wasn’t 100%, it was close) Civilization is definitely encroaching on us as we make our way to our final destination. We’re mostly following the path of the Erie Canal and we are passing through more towns and associated traffic as we slowly cross upstate New York. As a group, we are realizing that our journey is nearly over and we are taking more frequent breaks at any place that looks interesting (usually associated with food…….ice cream stops are very popular)

Little Falls, (our stop for tonight), is a very tired looking town located on the Erie Canal. It used to be a big center for textiles but those days are long behind it.

Tomorrow we are supposed to have a T-Shirt swap (I know what you’re thinking, it sounds kind of dumb to me too) and I had to go into town to look for a T-Shirt to swap. I ended up at a local sports shop and the owner gave me a T-Shirt that advertises her sports shop in Little Falls. I guess it will do unless I can find something better tomorrow.

Tomorrow’s 83 mile ride will take us to Troy, NY.

-ME

Day 49 Little Falls to Troy, NY

The Stats:

Mileage: 83 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:14

Average Speed: 15.8 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1648 ft.

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Today’s 83 mile ride took us from Little Falls to Troy, New York.

Wow, what a difference a day makes. Today there was almost no humidity and the temperature was very cool with a threat of rain that would never materialize. The riding was pretty easy with no major hills and for the last 30 miles we rode on a bike path.

Troy, which is located by the Hudson River, is another one of those upstate New York towns that has seen better days. (but it does have a good place to go for ice cream)

Tomorrow’s 75 mile ride to Greenfield, Massachusetts is a difficult one as we will climb a total of almost 6000 feet as we cross the Berkshire Mountains.

-ME

Day 50 Troy, NY to Greenfield, MA

The Stats:

Mileage: 75 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:26

Average Speed: 13.7 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 5885 ft.

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Today’s 75 mile ride took us from Troy, NY to Greenfield, MA.

It was a glorious day of sunshine with almost no humidity…. perfect for biking. We are now in the Berkshire mountains and we had three long climbs today but they weren’t real steep and they had long downhill’s associated with them. I much prefer them to the rolling hills that have been so common since Kansas.

I rode most of today with David and we decided to take our time. A guy was selling raspberries from his car….we stopped and ate a carton. We stopped for lunch in the neat little town of Shelburne Falls where we met up with Mike (IN) and bought some sandwiches at a Deli eating them at an outdoor bench in town. We then had to have some ice cream to complete the meal. We spoke to some local bicycle riders while eating our cones and had a pleasant conversation about our ride and experiences. We passed almost 2 hours in town before deciding to get back on the bikes and head to Greenfield, our stop for the night. I found a pair of scissors on the road today and will present them to Frank at Route Rap tonight.

During last nights Route Rap, Andy, one of the tour leaders and a master of understatement, mentioned that our hotel for tonight was “rustic”. I got my first clue to what Andy meant by “rustic” when I noticed the sign for the hotel and the word “pool” was partially covered by Duct Tape. It’s called the Moonlight Motor Inn and it’s straight out of the 50′s. That includes the furnishings and fixtures. (My bathroom is tiled in pink) I think the mattress is also from the 50′s….sure feels that way.

Chinese Buffet is on the menu again tonight…..I hear there’s an Applebee’s nearby that I and a few other rebels can go to.

Tomorrow’s 85 mile ride will take us to Chelmsford, MA.

-ME

I see that I am not receiving a digital data signal from this location, so I will have to send this email at a later date.

Day 51 Greenfield to Chelmsford, MA

The Stats:

Mileage: 87 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 5:52

Average Speed: 14.7 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 4558 ft.

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Today’s 87 mile ride took us from Greenfield to Chelmsford, MA.

Another good weather day greeted us as we tackled the many hills on our next to the last day of riding. We traveled through Wendell State Forest and numerous small towns on today’s journey. The hills slowed us up some but the scenery was nice so I enjoyed the day.

Tonight will be our last official dinner together and we will all be given a chance to say what this trip has meant to us. I’m not exactly sure what I will say, but I’ll think of something.

Tomorrow’s final 63 mile ride to Portsmouth, NH, is supposed to be an easy one. About 4 miles from the beach we are all going to gather at a school and ride, as a group, the final miles to the beach with a police escort…..should be kinda cool.

-ME

Day 52 Chelmsford, MA to Portsmouth, NH

The Stats:

Mileage: 63 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 4:10

Average Speed: 15.0 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 1745 ft.

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Our final ride of 63 miles took us from Chelmsford, MA to Portsmouth, NH.

The forecast called for afternoon rain and we did get a couple of showers early in our ride but it cleared up and got almost pleasant as we reached the coast. We got a police escort for the final few miles before reaching the beach…… It was a kick.

We all took our bikes to the ocean to dip our tires in celebration of our accomplishment. It meant a lot to all of us….I still can’t believe I’m finished. All too soon I had to leave the beach, head to the hotel, clean up and take the bike to a local bike shop to pack-up and ship it back home. After that, it was time to go to our Lobster dinner feast (It was very good). I took the bottle of Champagne that was waiting in my room when I arrived (thanks Mom, Denise and Karyn) but the state of Maine does not allow you to bring your own alcohol into a restaurant (you can’t even pay a corkage fee). After dinner, a few of us polished the bottle off in the hotel parking lot drinking from Styrofoam cups. (only the best will do)

Parting was hard for all of us after being together under challenging circumstances for 52 days. I know I will miss them.

Tomorrow’s ride will……….Oops, I guess I’ll be flying back to San Jose tomorrow. I’ve got to get up early for the 6:00am shuttle to the airport (The damn democratic convention is in town and airport security is supposed to be tight, so I need to be at the airport hours before my flight……bummer)

-ME

Final Thoughts

Final Stats:

Mileage: 3,866 miles

On-Bike Ride Time: 256:12

Average Speed: 15.1 mph

Total Elevation Climb: 116,046 ft.

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Many of you have asked whether I’ll be happy or sad once this trip ends. The truth is, I feel both emotions.

What I won’t miss:

48 different hotel rooms in 52 days: Sometimes I found myself wandering the halls desperately trying to remember what room number was mine. “Is 113 my room?…or was that yesterday?……I guess I’ll try the key card and see if it works”

Buffets:

I’ve never been one to frequent buffets at home and, after this trip, I’d rather not see another one. At times it felt like a cattle feed.

Century rides:

I found I was pretty comfortable with being on the bike for 4-5 hours. Any longer and I’d start getting tired and my butt would begin to hurt.

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What I’ll miss:

The people:

I can’t emphasize enough how important camaraderie is when attempting a journey such as this. The miles flew by while I was having long chats with my fellow travelers while peddling along through the countryside. Their humor and companionship kept me going on the tough days.

The food:

Eat whatever you want whenever you want. What a luxury it is to not worry about fat and calories. I probably will never be able to do that again. “I’ll have another ice cream please…three scoops this time…and be generous with the hot fudge.”

The Journey:

As one obscure bicycle rider, (I think his name was Lance somebody or other), once wrote, “it’s not about the bike” For me, this adventure was never about just the riding of the bike. It was about seeing our country at a pace that was slow enough to be able to observe the beauty of the land and the day-to-day life of the people and communities we were traveling through. I feel lucky to be living in such a marvelous country.

It was to meet, mingle and share the experience with fellow travelers.

It’s the awe and sense of accomplishment I felt upon seeing the Atlantic Ocean on our final day.

Email from friends and family:

After arriving at the hotel, after each days ride, I would eagerly check my email to see if someone had left me a message. I want to thank all of you for the encouragement and support. I really appreciated it.

Final reflections:

I am extremely fortunate to have the means and health to complete a journey such as this.

Don’t sweat the small annoyances, roll with the punches and enjoy the moment.

It’s important to live life to its fullest and not put off doing things that are important to you….. you may run out of time to do them.

Family and friends are very important in life……don’t take them for granted.

Life is good!

-ME